what could this noise be?

[Carguylen]

OK, I got that 1987 automatic Tercel. In great shape, may need a paint job, but it only has 129, 200 miles on it. There is a clunking noise when you tap on the gas and mostly when it is in second gear, and also some rattling on bumpy or dirt roads. the front axles and CV joints look OK, any ideas?

[Typrus]

HGow long has it been since a fluid change?

[Carguylen]

I just got it. Which fluids are you refering to?

[Typrus]

Get the tranny flushed and refilled.
Smell the transmission dipstick. Yes, smell it. If the smell is of something rotting, you are experiencing tranny death. If it just smells flat out nasty, you have a pretty well worn tranny. I'd recommend a fill of Amsoil tranny fluid. Go to ther site to check out whats compatible. They have an online store.

[takza]

Sounds like the engine/trans mounts. They are supposed to be made to be extra flexible...with a shock to control the movement.

I get a clunk with my manual in 5th at highway speeds...when letting the gas up.

Rattling might be the swaybar ends.

[ARCHINSTL]

I get the same clunks at close to highway speeds that takza mentioned, and which he also mentioned the mounts were a possible cause. This was in an answer to my first post in April.
So, I am looking to replace the engine and transmission mounts. The right front seems OK, but the left is quite spongy and oil-soaked. I cannot see the trans mount, but it seems appropriate to replace all three.
Has anyone done this? I guess my biggest question is about whether to use Toy OEM mounts or the less expensive Beck-Arnley/Anchor available from Autozone/Advance/NAPA. Any experience with fitting probs/longevity/quality with the less expensive?
Is it worthwhile to pop for the presumably expensive shock absorber? How can one tell if it actually needs replacement, or is it a foregone conclusion after 19 years and 171K miles, and should just be fitted and be done with it?
Also, any prob with raising the engine slightly with a bottle jack with a board placed between it and the oil pan to relieve pressure so the mounts can be removed? The FSM does not cover this method.
Thanks,
Tom M.

[takza]

I was thinking of the possiblity of replacing the shock with a solid rod....might work to help control the extra engine/trans movement for offroad?

Oil doesn't help rubber too much....you can test the mounts by prying them up to see if the rubber has separated from the metal...far as I know they compress one way and are held by bonded rubber the other way.

Do know that the eng/trans move around a good bit...as evidenced by the cracked backup light connx on top my trans.

You are in unexplored territory......?

[3A-C Power]

I didn't put the shock back in after doing my front end work. It isn't any worse, in fact it's better but that should be because of the different, less bad engine mounts that were attached to the new crossmember.

The shock isn't complicated. It's two M6 threaded ends which aren't hard to come by, roughly 4" long when compressed and about 3" of stroke, those are my estimates. Maybe we can find an industrial part that fits and has suitable damping. Regardless, I would not go to Toyota for this part.

[ARCHINSTL]

Thanks to takza and 3A-C for the advice. Guess I'll hold off on the shock and see what I find when I do the mounts sometime in the next few weeks. I'll explore the industrial avenue for the shock when I get that far.

[takza]

I'm thinking of a threaded rod with quite a few rubber washers on both ends, between some fender washers...might have a 1/2" of movement or so???? Should help to stablize the eng/trans more.

If I'm seeing it right...the driver's side mount that gets the oil on it is probably the first one to replace...since the engine lifts on that side?