carb rebuild?

Eatpants · Post by **Eatpants** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 5:51 am

whats better, rebuilding kit, or already rebuilt carb for 200?

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:37 am

The rebuild kit is alot cheaper, but you risk screwing the job up and getting bad results. I have done the rebuild and it worked fairly well and seemed easy enough. There's also the chance that the problems you're experiencing are not actually the carb but one of the vacuum devices or a vacuum leak, in which case you might not know if you screwed up the rebuild, or you bought a bad carb, or screwed up the installation, or if you did it right but the other problem still exists. Work carefully, follow the instructions, check all vacuum lines, clean gasket surfaces and use new gaskets, and theoretically it should work.

AbusedJalopy · Post by **AbusedJalopy** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 5:15 pm

I tried to rebuild a carb once. Took it apart at a friends house and layed out all the pieces in order with little numbers below them on a big table and labeled the diagram with the numbers to remember. Well it was a good strategy, but someone moved the table and all the pieces were dumped in a box. It was hopeless at that point with who knows how many balls bearings and mini gaskets missing. But they are only like $30 and it helps to undersand how it works, so I'd say try that.

Adelard of Bath · Post by **Adelard of Bath** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:48 am

I rebuilt a carb on an 86 dodge truck once, worked great...

I rebuilt the carb on my Tercel a couple months ago, and it SEEMED to go alright, although the car died on me in traffic several times and I ended up selling it for a hundred bucks.

And I swear I am never rebuilding a carb again...assuming I ever buy a carb'ed car again....heh....I will bring it to some dude who rebuilds them, or buy an already rebuilt one, or get the Holley carb or whatever.

As much fun as it is breathing gasoline fumes for extended periods, while trying to read inadequate diagrams, and wondering which one of the 3,400 parts in your super complex Tercel vacuum system is failing...

Oh aren't I Mr Negative! On the other hand, the rebuild kit is generally thirty bucks....but DO get the factory service manual if you do it, or even if you don't do it, download it from the main page, cuz there are "things" that exploded diagram that comes with the kit doesn't show.

And watch out, for there are THREE gaskets under that carb....one between the intake and the heat shield, one between the heat shield and the phenolic plate (sp?) in other words, that plasticky carb insulator, and then one between the base plate and the carb itself. Take it all apart and clean it all very well and use new gaskets or you will have leaks....and this would be a good time to pull the manifolds and replace THAT gasket as well; mine was leaking, it was probably ten bucks or less at the Autozone, and they had it in stock.

3A-C definetely makes an interesting point: there are so many other places SURROUNDING that carb that can and probably will fail, you never ever will know, and you will put your rebuilt carb on there and it won't work and you won't know why and you will wish your mother never met your father, etc etc

And I recommend a new fuel filter heh, that could possibly have been the reason for my problems all along, but we will never know.

Eatpants · Post by **Eatpants** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 5:22 am

i have almost no car experience so i think I will go with the already rebuilt carb.

the first carb i rebuild shouldnt be a super complex one

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 4:46 pm

Two moderately long words that will take away all your pain.

Weber conversion...

hornett22 · Post by **hornett22** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:58 pm

i agree on the weber.you have to know what you are doing to get good results on the rebuild.i would be willing to rebuild your carbs for $100 plus parts and shipping.watch out for worn throttle plates.you can replace all the gaskets and clean as much as you want.if you have a worn throttle plate you can forget it.just wiggle your throttle shaft at the bottom of the carb on the cable side.if it's sloppy your going to need bushings.i do this as well.then again the wber conversion..............

Adelard of Bath · Post by **Adelard of Bath** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 12:36 am

The Weber is what I SHOULD have done...heh actually if the thing wasn't "junkyard ready" in its rustiness, I would have....and that said, I think when get around to finding one in good shape, I will gladly shell out the $$ for the Weber. Or that TBI setup! Or a FI engine hehehhehe

Eatpants, what is your car doing? Maybe you don't need rebuild?

Mad Manx · Post by **Mad Manx** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:52 pm

Lateer wrote: Two moderately long words that will take away all your pain.

Weber conversion...

Lateer
i am lookin for the The Weber Carb. Where did you get yours at.

thx

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:59 pm

There are heaps of places to get a Weber carb online.

<a href='http://www.racetep.com/weber.html' target='_blank'>RaceTep carbs</a>
<a href='http://www.redlineweber.com' target='_blank'>Redline Weber</a>
are the places I go to look at diagrams and the like.

They were standard on 2 litre Cortinas and the like in the late 70's, so there's a few kicking around. There's not much difference between a new Weber carb and a reconditioned one. They're all built so well that they last.

I'd order online as they'll be jetted correctly for your engine and you'll get the correct adapter plate that'll bolt onto the intake manifold with ease. Trust me, this is something to get right at the start. Whoever put the Weber on my little Tercel buggered it up completely. I'm still fixing problems. One of the things I want to get a hold of is a kit of air jets, emulsion tubes, main jets and idle jets for the DGAV, so I can jet the car correctly and get the best performance out of it.

Make sure you get the 9" wide 1.5" high round air filter, too. The rectangular 2" high filter won't fit underneath the bonnet. Also be sure to get a carb or an adapter plate that has a fitting for the PCV valve to get into, else you'll fill the air cleaner with oil each time you drive the car.

Briar Rabbit · Post by **Briar Rabbit** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:03 pm

Hey thanks
We are looking to find one also.

Eatpants · Post by **Eatpants** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 5:45 am

its my brothers tercel not mine, his has gone through many more miles and for some reason, it could never idle correctly, always almost stalling, then kicking up, again and again so you have to be tapping the gas the whole time you drive it around. i guess the starter went out, he replaced that and now its just completely dead....ill have to ask him what happened before it broke. i think its original carb (car has like 300k miles)

hornett22 · Post by **hornett22** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 12:29 am

make sure your catalytic isn't clogged.i'm taking mine off since my car is old enough to not need a smog test.

Eatpants · Post by **Eatpants** » Thu May 05, 2005 10:25 am

how can i check the cat? take it off?

can i unclog it or would i just get a new one?

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu May 05, 2005 6:44 pm

Far as I know...you shine a light thru it and look for plugged cells. If too many are plugged...it's clogged. Might not be "clogged"..but still might not be doing anything to clean the exhaust.