32/36 DGEV

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:04 am

I have to know what the advantages and ddisadvantages of this carb are. My carb is taking the fall on me and I'm going to need a new one within the next 5-10 grand. I need to make my folks realize that it would be worth lending me the $450 for the kit.
I have to know what kind of mileage, power, and smoothness gains this gives.
I need to know how it handles both 130 degree and -25 degree ambient temperatures (Colorado has a big range)
I need to know how well it deals with altitude.
I need to know if I can install it myself.
I need to know if I can tune it myself.
I need to know what it does for the worse.
I need to know if I need to change timing or sparks or the likes.
I need to know if it can handle an overbore without re-jetting. (I'll be due for one soon)
I need to know if it will handle moderate offroading easily.

I need to know if I need to modify underhood other than the carb itself.
I need to know what it does for the powerband in terms of where the torque and HP are/is.
I need to know if that optional snorkel thing will work under our hoods.
I need to know ANYTHING else notable.

Sorry for the big list. I just have to be able to justify this.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:19 pm

man i need to know all that stuff too, im changing to a 32/36 too, i had an 40 idf on my carr a lot of time ago and it was only trouble

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 6:08 pm

Warbstrd has installed one in his Tercel before the 4A-GE swap. You guys should ask him, I'm pretty sure he can help you out as well as Lateer. I even think he has posted some stuff about the carb before.

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 7:49 pm

You really should get all the rest of the engine perfect before you put the Weber on.
That means new sparks, new leads, new rotor and distributor cap, checking rings, bearings, everything. The Weber is a performance modification and most insurance companies don't like that. Mine is in blissful ignorance.
Heres what I do know. What I don't, I'm sure I can find out.

Overbore: My 3A-C is bored out and it handles the Weber fine. My re-bore was due to a cracked piston.
Timing: Mine tunes without too many problems. The mechanic I get to do that (as I've not got a gas analyser or things like that) has no problems. Or at least, none he tells me...
Installation: It's a long job, getting the old carby off and the Weber installed. Then there's all the vacuum and emissions gear to hook up. If you're in California, you can install it, but have to keep the stock air intake filter assembly. There's an adapter online you can buy that will allow you to mate the Weber top to the air filter. A lot of stuff simply won't fit, unless the carburetor is built for it, such as positive crankcase ventilation. Make sure the carb is set up for all that.
Tuning: Best left to a mechanic who's got things like a gas analyser. You can do it yourself by ear, but these carbs can deliver so much fuel it's very easy to run rich or lean. I've got a Gunson Colourtune spark plug (glass bodied plug, so you can see the colour of the flame in the chamber) that I was going to try, but the fiance cleaned up and I can't find it now...
Rejetting: Rejetting the Weber is a piece of cake. Really. It is. The idle jets are mounted on the side of the carburetor, the air jets are mounted on the top. You can get to both these moderately easily without removing the top of the carburetor. The emulsion tubes and main jets are a little harder to get to. You have to remove the top of the carburetor to get to these.
Offroading: Does a bear crap in the woods? You get heaps of low-end torque in EL that allows you to pull out of damn near anything

I've used mine for firefighting, whitewater rafting (not as a raft

) and all sorts with the Weber. It's cool.
Underhood: Depending on the manifold adapter, there should be plenty of room underneath the hood for the carburetor. The Weber comes usually with a 2.5" rectangular air filter. This won't fit. You need the circular 9x1.5" air filter assembly.
Snorkel: Incidentally, this was something I was looking at for my Weber. I could use the swimming ability. I'm not sure if this would work, as I've never seen it. From what I've read online, it would...
Temperature ranges: I had to do a little calculation to get the temperatures you gave into Celsius. That's -30 to 55 degrees Celsius. Wow. that's huge. I can't tell you how it'll handle that huge a heat range. My Weber has a few problems starting when it's cold, but that's because mine has no fast idle on the choke. A kit-sourced DGEV would have that already built in, which would make things a lot easier. My opinion would be that it'd have no problems whatsoever.
Mileage, Power, Smoothness All improved. Simple as that. Mileage improves as the Weber only supplies through very small circuits. Power improves as it can deliver heaps when it's fully open. Smoothness really depends on your right foot. If you're a leadfoot, then all three go down. If you're a gentle person, then the Weber will love you.

I've got no idea as to where it puts the torque and HP. I guess that's related more to the timing settings than the carburetor itself.

The 32/36 DGEV Weber is a perfect modification for our cars. It fits perfectly.
However, as I mentioned above, most insurance companies really hate it, as they classify it as a 'performance' modification. Which it is, I suppose.

One of the best things to do would be to brmm down to your local library and photocopy the whole section on DGV, DGAV and DGEV Webers out of the Haynes guide. That'll give you full overhaul, tuning and re-jetting instructions. Then it's simply a matter of getting a set of jets or three and taking the car or a run and swapping the jets over at the end. I can send you my jet specifications, if you want.

I hope all this information helps. If you want to know any more, either post or pm me.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:01 am

That is awesome. How much of the vacuum and other lines stay and how many must be plugged or removed?
Do you think this thing would love a good exhaust upsize or hate it? I'll need a new exhaust soon, so I figure I should know.
On the never-ending quest for better mileage, what can be done... Heh.
Its ALL a big issue of $$. I want to bore out and get custom "sheathes" to get pressed in so that I can make this thing last longer. I also really need to get some bearings. I found race bearings somewhere for our engines and want to use them, for longevity and smoothness purposes.

But to stay on the carb issue, anyone else have input?

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:21 pm

does the stock pump work? cuz if not i better find one fast <_<

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:34 pm

I just bought a new pump.
Changed timing, getting better response, still a hollow spot though. Filled up today and was reporting 15.9. Joy.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:58 pm

You shouldn't need a different pump for the Weber. A carb is a carb, as far as the fuel pump is concerned, all you have to worry about is having too much pressure. That is terrible mileage and there should be an identifiable cause of it. I don't even get mileage that bad with my front wheels pointing 45 degrees away from each other.

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 6:52 pm

Hrm.

I'd say your float valve is buggered and you're delivering way more fuel than you need.

Pull out your spark plugs and have a look at them. If they're all black, then you're running way too rich.

And you don't need a new fuel pump. The existing mechanical pump delivers more than enough for the carburetor. I've never had any problems at all. Apart from a buggered pump, but once I replaced that, I was fine.

I'd recondition your existing carburetor before you change to the Weber. That way, when you do, you've got a good carb to swap back to and you'll appreciate the simplicity of the design and how sweet the Weber is to work on

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:03 pm

Heh.
I looked at the plugs today. I side-gapped one in order to see what it does to the little NGK.
I noted a strange light brown (rust-looking?) Carbony soot on the rim of the plug. The 'hey does that mean?

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:55 pm

Reading plugs is a bit of an art form.
Most people don't do it today. They just shove a gas analyser up the exhaust pipe and measure the amount of various gases to make sure the mixture is correct.

You might try looking at the following links:
<a href='http://www.championsparkplugs.com/' target='_blank'>Champion spark plugs</a><a href='http://www.ngk.com.au' target='_blank'>NGK Spark Plugs</a>

and I can't remember where the Bosch one is. Somewhere in my Favourites...

Anyhow, have a look at those. One of them (I think the Champion page) has a guide to what the various colours mean on various plugs.

Best of luck...

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat May 07, 2005 1:24 pm

I think it is the Float. Import Specialists will figure it out.

So I think I pretty much have my heart set on the Weber. Now to wait for enough money.