Removing engine from automatic trans

[tercle]

I am swapping engines on an automatic transmission.

Can the torque converter be unbolted from the flex plate before the engine is pulled, and then can the engine be pulled without separating the torque converter from the transmission?

I have read horror stories about not mounting the torque converter fully onto two sets of splines, and was wondering if I can skip this hazard by not un-mounting it in the first place.

[rer233]

I am swapping engines on an automatic transmission.

Can the torque converter be unbolted from the flex plate before the engine is pulled, and then can the engine be pulled without separating the torque converter from the transmission?

I have read horror stories about not mounting the torque converter fully onto two sets of splines, and was wondering if I can skip this hazard by not un-mounting it in the first place.

Actually, that's the preferred method of removal. Just make sure you push the converter back toward the trans after unbolting it from the flex plate. If it's been a good while since they've last been seperated, the nose of the converter tends to get rusted into the crankshaft, making seperation difficult. BTW- if you need any a/t specific parts, i just removed a good shifting 138k trans from my '87t4 and converted it to m/t. I'm in Baltimore MD, so shipping on any bulky parts could get pricey...

Good luck, Rich.

[marlinh]

There is a small section of the backing plate that comes off near the oil pan. There are two small bolts with ten mm heads, and the cover is wiggled out towards the driver's side, if I remember correctly. That gives you access to the torque converter bolts. It is hard to see this plate if the engine is caked with dirt and oil. There are six bolts. I found it easiest to use a long extension. Once they are out, you can usually free up the torque converter by sticking a pry bar through the starter mounting hole and pushing the converter towards the rear of the car. Sometimes rotating the engine a bit and prying it in a few locations helps free it up. When you install the new engine it is a good idea to polish the input shaft of the transmission to ease installation. A tiny film of grease on the shaft wouldn't hurt either. Good luck.

[Mark]

As for the fear that the torque converter may move out slightly and not be fully engaged with the pump shaft, that can easily happen when replacing a removed transmission (it happened to me frequently as I was trying to wiggle the transmission into place). If the front of the transmission is tilted down slightly, the torque converter can pop out slightly. It's easy to tell if this happens. The torque converter should be recessed slightly in the bell housing. The bottom of page 474 in the FSM shows this. It's no big deal to push it back in. I just takes some rotating back and forth while pushing it back in. If the transmission is supported in a horizontal position when the engine is removed, there shouldn't be much risk of the torque converter backing out.

[Petros]

this is routine with all auto trans, the "horror stories" occur some ham fisted mechanic can not get the engine and trans to fully mate. So they put in the bolts and used them to suck the trans up to the back of the engine. Tyically if the splines have slipped out and not engaged you can get it all together except the last 1/4-1/2", so rather than pulling it all out and making sure the torque converted is fully engaged and all the way on, they put the trans bolts back in and tighten them down. the usual events work like this: they tighten, tighten, tighten and then they hear a dull "pop", and the bolts go loose so they spin them all the way down. the "pop" is usually the housing failing as the mainshaft is pushed backwards through the alumnim housing. You have to replace the housing, which means a full rebuild or a new trans.

This can happen on a manual trans too, but less likely. Just make sure you can slide the trans all the way home by hand, and you know you are good. NEVER use the bolts to pull the trans up into the back of the engine!!!

[tercle]

BTW- if you need any a/t specific parts, i just removed a good shifting 138k trans from my '87t4 and converted it to m/t. I'm in Baltimore MD, so shipping on any bulky parts could get pricey...

Good luck, Rich.

I am looking for a 4wd automatic speedometer gear with 21 teeth.

[rer233]

Gonna check the the one i removed today.

[rer233]

Got it- sorry for the delay- took a while to find the thing. Why is it that whenever you're huntin' something- it's always in the LAST place you look??

Anyway- how's $15 + $6 shipping sound? I was kinda hoping someone would want the whole transaxle(they've got to be REAL rare) but apparently that's not gonna happen. Anything else- how about a near-perfect brake pedal pad for another $5?

Thanx, Rich.

[rer233]

PS- price includes alum. gear housing, and yes- gear has 21 teeth.

[Petros]

Why is it that whenever you're huntin' something- it's always in the LAST place you look??

Hah! I have solved this problem. I know the secret to finding everything so it will not be in the last place you look! i solved this age old question once and for all. took a lot of brain power too. you can stop this dilemma by one simple action (ready to learn it ?):

once you find what you are looking for, you keep on looking in several more places!!!!

That way it will no longer be in the last place you look!

TA-DAAA!

[splatterdog]

this is routine with all auto trans, the "horror stories" occur some ham fisted mechanic can not get the engine and trans to fully mate. So they put in the bolts and used them to suck the trans up to the back of the engine. Tyically if the splines have slipped out and not engaged you can get it all together except the last 1/4-1/2", so rather than pulling it all out and making sure the torque converted is fully engaged and all the way on, they put the trans bolts back in and tighten them down. the usual events work like this: they tighten, tighten, tighten and then they hear a dull "pop", and the bolts go loose so they spin them all the way down. the "pop" is usually the housing failing as the mainshaft is pushed backwards through the alumnim housing. You have to replace the housing, which means a full rebuild or a new trans.

This can happen on a manual trans too, but less likely. Just make sure you can slide the trans all the way home by hand, and you know you are good. NEVER use the bolts to pull the trans up into the back of the engine!!!

I don't think "bell housing" got it's name just from the shape. A coworker got a pretty good GONG once. Not sure what sort of interference he had. Heard it in the office at the other end of the shop loud and clear. He got lucky though. Just busted out a chunk clean, like a puzzle piece, at the bolt. On his own car too..

Proper torque converter checking/seating is a must. On any older car with the trans out, I always replace the seal behind the torque converter. BTW, A new rear main might not be a bad idea.

To seat a converter- Use two hands and carefully guide it on as far as it goes. You don't want to scrape any bushings. Next, cup the center button in your palm, and gently push,rotate, and wiggle up and down all at once. There's typically a couple clunk sounds as things line up. If the converter rubs on the bell housing or your fingers are nowhere near fitting behind it, you should be good. Then, when the trans is bolted up, the converter should spin free to easily allow bolt hole alignment. If the converter uses studs instead of bolts they should have play in the flex plate holes.

[tercle]

Got it- sorry for the delay- took a while to find the thing. Why is it that whenever you're huntin' something- it's always in the LAST place you look??

Anyway- how's $15 + $6 shipping sound? I was kinda hoping someone would want the whole transaxle(they've got to be REAL rare) but apparently that's not gonna happen. Anything else- how about a near-perfect brake pedal pad for another $5?

Thanx, Rich.

That sounds good.
Send me a PM with info.