Petros wrote:the third wire could be for a tachometer connection.
i think he mentioned that his tach is working:
gmeddy wrote:The tacho still works fine, so as I said earlier, the other wire that was connected to my dizzy, which runs through the firewall, is a mystery wire.
Maybe the other wire on the electric dizzy is for a tacho, but my tacho must get it's feed from someplace else, as it runs fine without any wires connected to the dizzy other than a 12v ignition feed.
And since this dizzy has it's own coil, my coil is now out of action, so I don't see how it could have the feed for the tacho coming from that either!
Look up the wireing diagram in the FSM , you'll see the dizzy wireing in the first section with the ignition switch ( in the first part of the diagrams there is the color code for all the wires, so you can trace them in the circut. Larry. The diagrams are the last section of the FSM .
i've hooked up both vac lines the way it should be now, top canister line to manifold, and bottom line to carb vac.
but as soon as the top one is connected, the idle shoots up, as the timing is advanced up around 10 deg higher by the vac.
this causes pinging, and I can't get the idle bellow 1000 rpm unless I screw in the mixture screw until the revs die down, but that is not the smoothest idle setting, and it sputters and pops after a high rev when the revs are coming back down to idle.
When I remove the vac line from that manifold vac, and plug it, I get a lower, more comfortable idle and no pinging.
Glen
the top vac can should only advance timing by 8* at idle, so if your timing is at 10* it should go up to 18* with the manifold vac hooked up. i'd put a timing light on to verify that it is doing this. i guess it's possible with your different aussie/euro dizzy's that they also have a different set of vac cans—maybe it's the other way around for them, and the top one advances 13* while the lower advances 8*? i dunno.
anyway, only way to check is to put a timing light on it and connect/disconnect each vac advance diaphragm to manifold vac and see how much the timing changes. good luck.
I am not sure if you have the terminology wrong but you don't turn the mixture screw to adjust idle speed, but the idle stop which is close to the throttle linkage.
i think he means that he can only get the idle down to 1000, and the only way to get lower is to adjust the mixture, which he obviously shouldn't do and shouldn't need to. something else is wrong.
While it seems simple - I had the high-idle problem because of not enough cable slack when I had the Aisan carb; it seemed counterintuitive to have slack in the cable, but I was wrong.
You might also try loosening the cable from the stop, raising it up high and dribbling lube through it until the lube drips through in the footwell (obviously put down drip rags); after all, it's been over two decades since the original lubing.
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
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