Radiator Repair or replacement

bobclark1 · Post by **bobclark1** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 4:07 pm

Has anyone found a good glue to fix a split in the radiator tank --top.
Or maybe a replacement with metal top?
Any help would be appreciated.
Bob

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 4:23 pm

The faucet at the bottom of my rad broke off a while ago, and I used this stuff called 'goop' to seal it up. It is still on there as good as new and seems to have worked very well (I put it on months ago now). It's great for a quick fix. I think it was the 'automotive' variation of the stuff that I bought, but I'm not sure. This the company that makes it:

<a href='http://eclecticproducts.com/goop/home.asp' target='_blank'>http://eclecticproducts.com/goop/home.asp</a>

I think our rads have plastic tanks which are not worth replacing. Your second option is to get a new or used rad in good condition.

Adelard of Bath · Post by **Adelard of Bath** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:28 pm

One time on a Mazda there was a pinhole leak in the plastic top, it would spray water out like a sprinkler! it was cool...but it had to be fixed, so I used some of that putty that says "gas tank and radiator repair" it is black, with a white center, or something, and you knead it until it is grey and put it on. Well it didn't last more than a couple days...probably because it didn't adhere to the plastic....

There's no reason why "goop" or JB-weld or any standard two-part epoxy shouldn't work, it doesn't get that hot, but make sure to scour the area nicely with 220sandpaper or something to give it something to grab to, and I like to use alcohol as my final wipe to clean the area of oils and stuff just before putting the glue/whatever on there.

Actually, now that I think about it, I would rather use something more liquidy than the putty I used...something nice and thin like epoxy or jb-weld, that way the pressure won't find pinholes in your glue/whatever.

Course nothing feels good like a new radiator, if you have the bank! I got a new one for my Volvo, came from Denmark, I love it. Plastic tanks, no problems yet.

Plastic is lighter anyway

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:33 am

What you want to use is the solid type epoxy (like Adelard who needs a bath talks about) that is labeled for radiator, gas tank, or waterpipe repair...and that says it will set when wet.

I used some on a galvanized water pipe that had a leak at some threads and it lasted under pressure for 2 years...until I replaced the pipe.

I think it will hold on plastic of the type rads are made of...need to sand the area real well with 80 grit...make sure it's clean & dry if possible...kneed the stuff...and rub in into the surface so you are sure it will bond well...then spread out a good 1/8" layer of it.

Teddy1 · Post by **Teddy1** » Tue Feb 22, 2005 4:19 pm

bobclark1:

With few exceptions, the glass-reinforced plastic bodied and/or tanked radiators suck.

The exceptions are the Toyota and VW units, which seem to last MUCH longer than they have any right to. Toyota started copying VW's radiators in the late 80's, even using the same glass and plastic formula (hey, why mess with a good thing, right?)

If you are going to keep the car for any duration, go buy a factory radiator (the kind with the plastic tank). They seem to live anywhere from 12-25 years, depending on your climate/summer temps/winter temps and coolant maintenance.

I doubt you are going to find a replacement aftermarket METAL TANKED radiator that can get anywhere NEAR that, in terms of longeveity...

Virtually no repairs by any means using any chemicals/compounds/processes on the plastic bodied tanks last for any substantial amount of time... and of course, these "cheap 'n dirty" fixes always BREAK on you when it is MOST inconvenient... like, when you are in Indio California in the middle of summer and it is 125 degrees F and you are going up hill and all of a sudden *BOOM* and then spurting hot water and steam and a cracked head from the sudden aluminum heat soak...

Ooops. I digress. Anyways, thats my experience. Don't forget the new radiator cap... unlike the radiators, caps have a life expectancy of about 3 years... before the bimetallic spring tension goes south, and therefore the caps "valve" function is wrong, and cooling system issues follow.

- Teddy

Teddy1 · Post by **Teddy1** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 3:05 am

Ummmmm.

"Toyota started copying VW's radiators in the late 80's, even using the same glass and plastic formula (hey, why mess with a good thing, right?)"

Errrrrrrr.

That SHOULD have read: "in the late 70's, even using"

Sorry, guys.

Who the hell put the [7] key that close to the [8] key, anyways? It makes no sense.

hornett22 · Post by **hornett22** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 12:09 am

i disagree.find a metal replacement.they are not hard to find.i could see the epoxy holding up except for the plastic it is adhered to is probably weak and expands too much.i'm not saying it won't work but radiators are so cheap now why risk it. try:
http://www.europartsdirect.com