Noisy while driving

[So_Powerful]

Just recently the car started sounding a little noisier (on the passenger side) when it gets up to speed, maintains speed and upon deceleration. At speed if I turn the steering wheel slightly clockwise the noise becomes quieter or stops altogether. I can't keep the wheel turned though or the car won't drive straight. Things that I have done recently to the car that may be attributed to the noise is a inner right tie rod end replacement, complete transmission swap, new shocks, and wheel alignment. I had the wheel alignment done professionally so I don't think it would have to do with that. The only other thing that I can think of is the bearing needs to be replaced in the right hub. Anyone else got ideas.

[dlb]

i was going to say bearing but you beat me to it. sounds eerily similar to the time i had one go. there's a thread in the repair guide section on this, i think sdoan wrote it up. lots of pics.

[xirdneh]

sounds like bearing
if you turn right the left side will make noise
turn left and right side will make noise
its sounds like a low growl and it will get louder over time
that said, you can drive a long ways till it gets real annoying

[So_Powerful]

I rather just replace it right away. I like the space ship sound the tercel makes when accelerating without the extra noise.

[Highlander]

the wife had one go out recently, It didn't present itself with any increase in noise, but it would suddenly start to shudder (through the steering) as it went up the canyon, and then the shudder would go away. When I replaced the wheel bearing (front, that is) on the driver's side, the inner inner(remember there are inner inner , inner outer, and outer inner out er outer parts) and the inner ball bearings actually FELL OUT-they are pressed onto the inner piece of the hub. The wear was so bad that the ball bearings were falling into the gap created when the inner section shifted. The axle nut was still torqued to 135 ft-lb, so that's no indicator. The inner portion of the hub where the race should press on is toast-badly galled, so its good that I have a parts car or two .
My point being that even though I've put ~500,000 miles on various T4WDs, this was the first front wheel bearing to go out, and it went suddenly (as far as I could tell) and it could have been really serious if it'd failed completely, so when you hear the fronts start thrumming, please replace the wheel bearings. yeah, its a pain, but its worse when you're on the side of the road.
BTW I did it without a press using a bench vise, sockets and a hammer or two.

[Petros]

for some reason it seems the front right (passenger side) bearings go out more often than the left, sounds like it could be bearing. Also before you go to the trouble of replacing the bearing, check the right CV as well. Any play in the joint in rotation direction means it is going bad (even if the boots are still good). Sometimes sloppy CV joints can cause funny noises.

[JRI1988sr5]

today i had my t4wd on the lift at school and the was some slop when you push the tire back and forth my instructor said its a wheel bearing but i havent noticed any noise atleast so far any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Petros]

I do not know what you mean by "back and forth". You will not always notice a noise when the bearing is sloppy, usually forward and aft movement is normal, the anti-sway bar donuts give some in that direction. If those rubber bushings are in good shape than that movement is normal. when bearings are bad you will usually see "in and out" movement (in the direction of the axle shaft, in towards the engine, outward away from the car), but this could also be a bad lower ball joint, or lower arm bushing. You have to look for where the movement is coming from, if the wheel bearing itself has any sloppyness or movement while the wheel is moved, than it is the bearing. You usually need two people to isolate the movement, one to pull the wheel in and out, with the other inspecting the suspension closely for where the movement is coming from.

All of these issues are fairly easy fixes, even replacing the bearing if you have access to a press.

[JRI1988sr5]

i was doing twelve o clock to six a clock i was told that is to check for wheel bearings any feedback is greatly appreciated i did replace the wheelbearing which was shot but there is still quite a bit of freeplay on the passenger side in the up and down fashion

[dlb]

do you mean there is play if you push/pull with your hands at 6 and 12? i would say ball joint but i've found that these types of tests are not thorough. last tercel i worked on, the ball joints looked good and passed the same push/pull-style test but once i had the hub off for other things i found that both ball joints were totally worn out, flopping around and loose. so my advice is if you have any doubts, take it apart to inspect it.

[Petros]

If the bearings are good chances are that movement is ball joint. If you put a large pry bar to it and watch for any movement of the lower ball joint location, it would be a reliable test. Many chain repair shops will check it for "free", what out for rip-offs.

[JRI1988sr5]

alright i will check this next time i have it on the lift thanks much for the help!

[JRI1988sr5]

do you mean there is play if you push/pull with your hands at 6 and 12? i would say ball joint but i've found that these types of tests are not thorough. last tercel i worked on, the ball joints looked good and passed the same push/pull-style test but once i had the hub off for other things i found that both ball joints were totally worn out, flopping around and loose. so my advice is if you have any doubts, take it apart to inspect it.

The reason it most likely passed is because you need to unload the balljoint. The balljoint is under tension from the strut/spring so it will pass the 6/12 oclock test until you use a floor jack to compress the spring a little by lifting on the lower control arm.......signed h.s. auto teacher.