Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
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Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
Let's just suppose that the #1 Connecting Rod Cap fell off and hit the ground before I had a chance to mark it for install. In other words I don't know which end faces which way. How much of an issue is this as it is getting new bearings? The new bearings arrived today, the caps have been sandpapered clean and smooth with 800 grit wet/dry using WD40 along with it. I will do the journals tomorrow but they look unharmed.
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
Shouldn't be a problem, compare it to the #2 cap orientation, the tabs on the bearings should be on the same side of the rod. You can also look at the contact area of the rod and you should see the image of the cap tab on one side or the other. Hitting the ground might only be a problem if it was from a substantial height, like 6' +. You're doing fine with all of this, being a klutz myself, I always take precautions to avoid 'incidents' but there are never any guarantees except that the bread always lands butter-side down. 

'83 SR5-299K, -tRusty!
'85 SR5-265K--GOLD
'85 SR5-285K-- GOLD-New engine!
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'85 SR5-265K--GOLD
'85 SR5-285K-- GOLD-New engine!
'85 SR5-238K -- Teal-Killed by a DD
'58 and '62 Austin-Healey Sprites
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
I was soooo careful to mark the other caps so I could put them on exactly as they came off, then that one just fell rather then needing to be worked off like the others.Highlander wrote:Shouldn't be a problem, compare it to the #2 cap orientation, the tabs on the bearings should be on the same side of the rod. You can also look at the contact area of the rod and you should see the image of the cap tab on one side or the other. Hitting the ground might only be a problem if it was from a substantial height, like 6' +. You're doing fine with all of this, being a klutz myself, I always take precautions to avoid 'incidents' but there are never any guarantees except that the bread always lands butter-side down.
Another question. I bought the grease that was recommended but my Chiltons book just says to use engine oil on the new bearings and journals. Is the grease instead of oil or in addition to it?
Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
there is no problem, they have a number on the side(at least mine do ) that is how i know they are ok
tercel 4wd custom suspension, under drive pulley, vented brakes, cold air intake, and plenty more to come
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
Mine do too. Oddly, the two rear ones have the number on the drivers side. It looks like the two in front might be on the passenger side. At least the second from the front one is for sure as I marked that one.shogun wrote:there is no problem, they have a number on the side(at least mine do ) that is how i know they are ok
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
i got the rod caps mixed up once
i took the rods and caps to the local machine shop and asked if they could match them up
the guy put a cap on one of the rods and inspected the machine marks (fine grind marks) on the side with a magnifying glass
he switched 'em around till all grind marks matched
that was too easy
i took the rods and caps to the local machine shop and asked if they could match them up
the guy put a cap on one of the rods and inspected the machine marks (fine grind marks) on the side with a magnifying glass
he switched 'em around till all grind marks matched
that was too easy
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
I can't pull the rod out as I am doing this with the engine in the car from below. I will give the best inspection I can to see if I can determine which way it was mounted. Why does it make such a difference if a new bearing is being installed??? I just don't get it.xirdneh wrote:i got the rod caps mixed up once
i took the rods and caps to the local machine shop and asked if they could match them up
the guy put a cap on one of the rods and inspected the machine marks (fine grind marks) on the side with a magnifying glass
he switched 'em around till all grind marks matched
that was too easy
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
yes it does make a differenceBluebelles Mom wrote:I can't pull the rod out as I am doing this with the engine in the car from below. I will give the best inspection I can to see if I can determine which way it was mounted. Why does it make such a difference if a new bearing is being installed??? I just don't get it.
if you have an auto machine shop nearby i would ask them how important it is
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
I have been away from a computer for a week, on my road trip (in Austin TX right now). The way the bearing caps go on is very important, the alignment of the bore through the rod ends is done with a "blank" rod with the cap bolted on. So each is matched to rod, if you swap ends or mix up the caps the bearing will never line up in the end of the rod. I will likely result in severe engine damage very quickly. Get the correct rod cap on in the correct direction.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
Highlander gave you the correct answer to your first question. As for oil vs grease, one or the other but not both. It's a preference thing. I have always used oil cause I'm too cheap to buy the grease. The grease is necessary for engine remanufacturers because the engines may sit around for some time before they are installed in a vehicle.
- Petros
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Re: Suppose the #1 Connecting rod cap
I use motor oil to lube the bearings. When starting a "fresh" engine for the first time, I pull the spark plug wires and crank the engine until the oil light goes off. Than reinstall the wires and fire it up. It fills all the oil galleys and lubes the crank, cam and bearings before it runs for the first time.
In the race shop I worked in the engine had a belt driven oil pump with a scavenger pump for the dry sump system, (uses a separate tank for the oil supply, oil collected in the pan is pumped to the tank), before we fired it up we would slip the belt off the pump and spin up the oil pump by hand unit we got oil pressure at the gauge. Than install the belt and fire it up, either way it pressurizes the oil system before the engine is started.
Most of the wear on bearings is due to start-up wear caused by dry starts.
In the race shop I worked in the engine had a belt driven oil pump with a scavenger pump for the dry sump system, (uses a separate tank for the oil supply, oil collected in the pan is pumped to the tank), before we fired it up we would slip the belt off the pump and spin up the oil pump by hand unit we got oil pressure at the gauge. Than install the belt and fire it up, either way it pressurizes the oil system before the engine is started.
Most of the wear on bearings is due to start-up wear caused by dry starts.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)