Rear hatch problems, defroster, wiper, and lights.

[Krunk]

Yet another small issue, my passenger side turning light is not working, when i click the lever on column it blinks really fast, I pulled out light assembly but found no issues and I cannot figure out where the wires go out of the fender. Is there an easy way to figure out where the problem is? got a new volt meter but I cannot remember how to use it, I am not asc certified, I am a diy guy. My grandfather and uncle are both mechanical, my father and I are builders/ remodelers, I have always worked on my own cars and as a result I have had many car issues even though I was quite confident. Anyways, remember I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.

[Petros]

fast blinking is indication usually of a burned out bulb, less resisance in the system causes it to blink faster. Your indicator light is the one under the bumper, not the one on the corner next to the head light. Pull the cover and bulb, clean the contacts and try a new bulb (sometimes they are bad even if the filament is not broken). The problem is not usually at the combination switch on the column.

[Krunk]

I out in new bulb previous was obviously burned out, but still get fast blink and no lights outside on corner...I have not checked bumper lights....didn't even see them. checked them sure enough passenger side was not working, switched it with drivers side and it worked. So, corner lights do not blink? strange. Also my rear defroster, back up light, wiper and spray, none of these work....well spray might actually, but nothing else, really annoying and hard to see most of the time. Also there is hardly any heat coming from my heater, is the heat just shitty or is there something I could do? I checked to make sure all the controls for the heat is working and it is, all the flaps open and close, all four settings of the fan work, all the vent settings work also. Is there a fuse just for the rear hatch?

[ARCHINSTL]

Re the heater - if your car has AC, then the AC cooling unit may be clogged with all sorts of stuff; mine was - I removed it and subbed the non-AC cars' sorta funnel from the blower to the heating unit. If one of the latter is not available, then you might fab something from Tupperware-type material. But - all Tercels of the era used the same system, so perhaps a JY search would work. If not an AC car, then the heater core fins may be clogged - or its internals may be clogged. Some members have reported mouse mansions in the ducts as well. Also - is the valve in the engine bay fully open?
The heater worked well - for the day...

Corner lights do not blink - just for NHTSA requirements.

Defroster - did you check the relay? It can be reset - see the FSM. Then check the grid with your multimeter or just a test lamp.

Rear wiper - again, check the FSM; there is a testing procedure there. Wiper and washer are fuse-protected.

Reverse lamp - bulb? Gotta remove the panel - there is a thread on this.

I would suggest reading the electrical layout at the back of the FSM.
Tom M.

[Petros]

also on the rear hatch issue one of two things come to mind, since all are not working it could be someone replaced the rear hatch and simply cut the wire bundle rather than fish all the wires through the hollow places in rear hatch to get them to work. Or, where the wire bundle feeds through from body to door, it constantly flexes the wires there and often the metal wire fatigues and looses connection, even if the insulation is no broken. You have to check wire continuity with Volt-ohm meter and some pins stabbed into the wires.

heaters are pretty good when working properly, you should get air out at 130 to 150 deg when on full. make sure you have hot coolant flowing through valve (some times tubes get full of scale and rust, sometimes valve does, or does not open). And most often, if not debris or mouse hotel in air ducts (easy access after you remove glove box), than usually the heater core is full of scale or deposited. First try back flushing heater core from heater hoses, and if that does not help fill with diet coke or vinegar and water overnight, and than flush out. If your heater leaks after it means it needed replacement anyway (walls too thin). Replacing core is a big job, you have to remove the whole dash and all heater housing, so be wary of putting corrosive compounds in it.

[Krunk]

Yeah, I seem to remember reading something somewhere on the forums about heater core being a heck of a job. DREAD. Well, I do live in California, don't really need a heater, unless driving at night on a cold night. I will check out the glove and make sure fuses are good check wires and such. thanks for hitting everything guys. End of thread.