new cv joint won't go into transaxle

[dlb]

i'm replacing my passenger CV and got the old one out ok but the retaining clip on the new one is a stiff c*** and won't go into the transaxle. i've tried tapping VERY lightly on the end of the CV for fear of damaging the new goods, pressing it in by wedging the end of a huge screwdriver into the lip of the inboard CV housing and pulling the screwdriver against one of the support beams, and hammering taps on the same lip of the housing. when i pull the CV out i can see the wear on the retaining clip from me working on it.

obviously, not everyone has an "axle shaft remover/installer (special toyota tool #09648 16010)" so how should i do this using the tools of mere mortals?

thanks in advance.

[ARCHINSTL]

Is this a reman or new (as in GSP or EMPI) unit? One of my GSPs in late 2007 was a really tight fit (I had to pound it in using a persuader rod and small sledge on the 1/4" ridges of the inboard joint). In fact, it was so tight that I did not get it in all of the way...and found out 8 months later (no damage done, though...). I don't know that it was the new axle's fault or the internal "carrier" was oversized a tad, but I wound up having to reduce the size of the inserted part of the axle by using emery cloth - this was quite tedious, as you can imagine.
I don't think anyone here has encountered this before.
Tom M.

[takza]

Sometimes those new clips can be too stiff...but if the axle doesn't fit...don't know what to say. If it's a rebuilt...then it's likely the clip. Compare it to the old one? Put some moly grease on it and inside where it grips? I wouldn't hit on any thing but that SOLID steel ring.

[dlb]

damn it, that's what i thought.

it's a new CV. the clip is marginally bigger than the one on the old CV, but i guess the difference and the stiffness of the clip are enough to make it a pain in the ass. you are i are on a similar page though, tom, as i did try filing the clip a little bit. i only have a big metal file though so it's unwieldy but i'll just keep at it. it's definitely the clip that's catching, as i can feel the inner splines lock in. i then insert the end about 1/4" before it stops. i can see the wear marks on the ring when i pull it out to try to figure out just what the f*** i'm doing wrong so that's it. booooo.

thanks!

[xirdneh]

i have had this problem several times
my solution has worked almost like a charm every time
i get the axle into the wheel hub then slip the other end into the tranny as far as it will go
then i get ahold of the wheel hub and push it in using my whole body behind it
it has worked everytime i tried this
but one time it was too much for the oil seal, popping its spring out
i did not know this had happened until i drove it and noticed the leak
no problem
just took it out and replaced with new one
then used that technique again without problem

[dlb]

i got this last night, i just took the retaining clip off the old CV and put it on the new one since the old one was a bit smaller and more giving than the new one. i still had to pry on the lip of the inboard joint but got it in without too much effort.

thanks guys!

[ARCHINSTL]

Not to be a Cassandra, but...pay extra attention to the area around the insertion point for a while; look for leaks.
http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... t=november
Tom M.

[dlb]

i'll keep an eye on it, thanks tom. the new CV still took some effort to get in and i made sure the inboard housing was as snug against the transaxle as it was prior to removal but your story does make me cautious.

i've got the 4A in, along with the new clutch and engine mounts, and ron rides sooooo much smoother now. i don't have time to finish putting the hub back on until tomorrow (i just couldn't rest last night until i at least got the CV in) but i'm really excited to go for a drive once the job is done and see how the front end feels then!

[keith]

i got this last night, i just took the retaining clip off the old CV and put it on the new one since the old one was a bit smaller and more giving than the new one. i still had to pry on the lip of the inboard joint but got it in without too much effort.

thanks guys!

I've had to do that on several vehicles in the past, including one of the remans I used on the Tercel. Never had a problem with the new EMPI's though.

[animeracing]

The right tool to whack the CV into the trans is usually a slide hammer, with the correct adapter for the groove around the inboard joint.

Being that the correct adapters are hard to come by, you either have to fabricate one yourself, or simply use the very tip of the incorrect "universal" smaller adapters, which takes several tries to get a strong enough hit while keeping it in the groove.

I struggled with this for a few hours before finally going to AutoZone and renting the slide hammer tool. Even with the incorrect adapter, one good solid whack when it finally stayed in the grove, and it went in.

[Petros]

I have not had this issue, but I am going to compare the spring clip on any new axles before I install them. If the new ones are too large or stiff, I am swapping them over with the old ones. There was someone on this list that once had a heck of a time getting one out, I wonder now if this is why. Someone forced a too large spring clip into the diff, making removal very difficult.

It should not take a slide hammer to install a spline shaft, nor get it out.

[dlb]

my new CV is groovy. i've been checking for leaks from the transaxle but it's fine so far so i will swap retaining clips on any future axles that i have difficulty installing.

[dave88]

Aside from the above issue, is swapping out the halfshafts pretty easy on these?

Mine just clicks slightly on a sharp turn, so they've probably still got quite a few miles left.

[dlb]

i found this helpful guide:

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/ ... 0front.pdf

the tercel section starts on page 7. in a nutshell though, if you're doing this alone, leave the car in gear with the park brake on and crack the outer CV nut first, since you can't stand on the brake and reef on the bar at the same time. then jack it up, take the wheel off, take the tie rod off, mark where the camber adjusting cam is positioned so you can reassemble it properly, disconnect the lower strut from the hub, and pull the end of the CV out of the hub. it's a tight fit but it will come out. use a pry bar under the lip of the inboard CV joint and pry it out of the transaxle. pull the old bastard out, put the new bastard in and reverse the steps to put it all back together. takes an hour or so, as long as nothing's rusted or frozen up.

EDIT: i missed a step! i forgot to mention after taking the wheel off to take off the caliper and hang it with a a clothes hanger from the strut spring. you just need to remove the two bolts that hold it to the hub and slide the whole thing off the rotor. then the rotor will just slide off too.

[Petros]

I do something similar but I remove the ball joint at the bottom of the strut (it will not affect alignment). I also found this way I do not have to remove the steering tie-rod, you just turn the steering to full lock to give you enough movement of the strut hanging from the strut tower to get it off.

I have found it much easier to remove the large center nut by jacking the car up, remove the tire and putting a long pry bar through the lug studs, and use a large socket with a cheater bar on the wrench. the clutch and brakes will slip if the nut is really stuck on, even with penetrating oil on it.

So my procedure is:

1. jack and support car, remove tire, put pry bar through the wheel studs braced against ground.
2. Remove cotter pin and retainer off the axle nut, place large socket with breaker bar and 6' long pipe extension and remove the nut.
3. Remove two 12mm bolts from bottom of ball joint, make sure steering is at full lock, and use pry bar to free bottom of hub from ball joint.
4. Slide and wiggle end of spline shaft from hub by swinging strut assembly out as far as it will go. Sometimes penetrating oil helps if spline is rusty.
5. Use pry bar on groove in flange of inner cv joint, usually just pops out. Than whole half shaft assembly falls out.

Assemble in revers order. This should not affect alignment or brakes since you did not break any of the lines or connections that affect them. So no alignment needed, and you do not have to bleed the brakes either.

without hurrying I usually can have the half shaft out in 25 to 30 min with hand tools, you have to remove far fewer bolts and connections this way than what the FSM tells you (which is a waste of time). Sometimes if the big axle nut is really stuck I have to remove the whole strut (only about 10 min more work) and take it to a shop with a big pneumatic impact wrench. I have one but it is not powerful enough for really stuck large nuts or bolts. But it is pretty rare that a nut will not come free after soaking in ATF or penetrating oil and a wrench with a 6 foot long handle extension.

We might move this post to the "repair guides" section of this forum so it is easier for everyone else to find.