You konw the to bolts on the exhaust manifold that hook to the down pipe? well for some dum reason the top one broke and i need to know if i can replace it or if i have to replace the whole exhaust manifold? it looks like it can skrew out but i dont know??? for some reason i think i have got a lemon this car seems to be on the ramps more then on the road.
Last edited by blade on Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's not uncommon for exhaust bolts to snap. They're usually pretty hard bolts to begin with, but the constant heating and cooling eventually makes them even more brittle. You really have to take it easy when loosening them, especially on e very old vehicle with rusty connections that make removal a challenge.
If there enough thread sticking out the other end, and you had the bolt popped loose before it snapped, you can sometimes grab a pair of vice grips along with some spray lube on the threads and work it out slowly. If you snapped it trying just to get it loose, and it broke before it moved, it's likely the threads are seized in there good, and you may have to remove the manifold, and use a cobalt bit to drill out the bolt, then a special remover to thread into the drilled out bolt and/or just drill the bolt out to the threads, pry what's left out, then chase the threads to clean it up.
Those with welders sometimes weld a piece of metal to the remaining part, to use as a lever, or even weld on a hex head or another bolt to allow the use of a socket and ratchet for torque.
You can get it out of there, but it might take some time and trying a few various methods to see what works.
Let me add to the above. The bolts don't usually seize to the manifold for some reason like they do to the nuts that you typically use. Use some PB Blaster or Sea Foam on them and let it sit overnight. It will usually work out fairly easily, but it must work out through the bottom, it won't come out the top.
If a little sticks out but you can't get a good grip with vice grips, try using a small triangular file to file a groove and then use a flat blade screwdriver to screw it out.
You can get replacements just about anywhere, I got a set at NAPA.
I want to add that if it is really stuck it might be easier to get another manifold at the wrecking yard and replace the whole thing. At the local pull-a-part the manifold is only like $8.50. The broken studs can usually be removed without too much trouble, but if it is really stuck, removing the broken stud that is frozen in place is not easy without the proper tools. Drill out the old one (it is pretty hard metal) and than tap the hole with the right size metric thread tap is about the only way to do it without removing the manifold, you will likely need long extensions and have to do it from under the car. BTW, old ATF makes a much better penetrating oil than any of the commercial sprays.
I have been using left hand drill bits for removing broken bolts for the last couple years and they work amazingly well. I use a LEFT hand bit that is a little smaller than the bolt (the bit does not have to touch the threads to work), center punch the broken bolt as close to center as possible and drill (in reverse with a reverseable drill motor of course). It seems like every time the bolt backs out as the drill bit gets in about 1/4" or so.
Years ago I broke a stud in a cast iron head or block and a guy with an oxy/acetylene cutting torch heated the end of the broken stud to red and hit the oxygen. The bolt just turned to sparks and the cast iron threads were fine. I probably cleaned up the threads with a tap, but not sure.
Your method for removing?
Anecdotal info is always invaluable!
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit." T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." Mark Twain
well i dont know y but everones meathed did not work so i had to heat it up with a torch and then cool it down right away and bam it screwed out easy a pie so i broke 3 drill bits and none of the wreckers had one so i thought i would try heating and cooling. oh and did you know that toyota has discontinued our exhaust manifolds but you can buy a after market manifold for it?it is like a header.
hey petros was told by my toyota dealer that autoway.ca had one and i looked but no such luck but i might have missed it when looking. so i don't know. but i got the car going again and now two new problems so my fuel pump is leaking is there a gasket there that i can replace or do i have a dieing pump? #2 i was ceaking my vac lines and the hose that comes from the charcole filter to the carb has gass in it is this bad and would it cause the deiseling?? or is this normel?
another question but i dont know what vehicals i can get rear springs from that will lift the back of my car(1987 toyota tercel 4wd) by a inch or two can you help me??
Pathfinder rear coils cut half to 3/4 of the last coil off. Even at 2" you will need new shocks as well Check out my build thread if you already haven't. http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... f=8&t=5210 you should be able to do the whole rear lift for about 100$, 50$ for new shocks and 20$ or so for springs from a wreckers.
there should be no fuel in the canister lines, just vapor. You might have a bad needle valve in the carb (attaches to the float), if it over fills it will go through the vent tube to the canister, it will also make your car diesel. The Service manual has an inspection/test process for the canister system.
How is the fuel pump leaking? Fuel or engine oil. If it leaks fuel the diaphragm is bad, the pump needs to be replaced (they do not cost much). If it leaks motor oil it is the gasket under the fuel pump. Mine was leaking like crazy and I took it out and made two gaskets from a cardboard auto parts box (you need two, one on each side of the heat shield).
A bad fuel pump will not cause dieseling, that is either timing is off, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere, or for some reason you are running way too rich (bad float or bad needle valve in the carb).
You should also take the vac line diagram (from this forum) and follow all your vac lines to see if they car connected properly (no easy way, you just have to systematically check where each one goes from the diagram). You might have some of them in the wrong places.
and i need to know if i can replace it 
or if i have to replace the whole exhaust manifold? 
it looks like it can skrew out but i dont know??? for some reason i think i have got a lemon this car seems to be on the ramps more then on the road. 
