Yet another Weber install...

[alehander]

...this one just doesn't look like it was done by Stevie Wonder.

Step 1. Remove old carb; throw in trash or sell or eBay as "rebuilt" or, if in CA, box for smog reinstall. Cap all exposed vacuum ports.


Step 2. Install Weber adapter. I recommend removing the stock spacer/carb heater. It has webbing which impedes air flow, and it can cause hood clearance issues down the line. When removing the stock spacer/heater, shorter adapter mounting studs are needed. Now's also a good time to spiff up that carb heat shield.


Step 3. Install the carb. This one is a DG"E"V, indicating an electric choke. It also has a CARB Executive Order (EO) tag, which may come in handy when attempting to pass CA emissions. The Weber is not legal for installation in CA on at T4WD, even if you attempt to retain all the emission circuits (which is not possible). But it's worth a shot... If I fail, the Weber comes off for the smog check. A sharp eye will notice a 5mm phenolic spacer below the carb; it keeps the carb body temp down and comes with bonded gaskets on both sides; it will not cause hood clearance issues. The throttle cable mounting point needs to move towards the front of the car by about 3/4"; gently massage it with a hammer. Cap the throttle plate vacuum, for now.


Step 4. Install the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). It does not matter which one, jut don't use Chinese crap which will leak fuel and start an engine fire. I'm using a Mallory unit rated for 3psi+; it's mounted here with a bracket to the intake manifold; the pressure adjustment is via the allen screw at the top. Set the FPR to 3-4psi.




Step 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and route the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) and the "other" vent line into the air filter. If you have a charcoal canister, route the purge line there as well. Oh, and please, don't use a chrome air cleaner. Now's the time to spiff up the valve cover.


Step 6. Adjust the throttle cable such that the throttle opens completely when the pedal is on the floor; there should be some slack in the cable when the gas pedal is free. Route the throttle plate vacuum directly to the distributor vacuum advance. If you want to retain emission circuits, also route the throttle plate vacuum to (at least) the charcoal canister and the EGR valve vac booster. Adjust the choke plates such that they gently close the air intake with a cold carb; hook up the (electric) choke - any spare, nearby wire which has 12V with the key on and 0V with the key in the OFF position should do.


Step 7. Go for a test drive... bring a fire extinguisher and a cell phone. In my case, low end throttle response improved dramatically, as did cold weather starting and cold driveability. Top end is better, just don't flog it and open the secondary valve at low engine speed - too much fuel. If you have idle or cruising issues, take a look at your jets - other Weber installs on this site have good guidance on which jet values to use for a stock 3A(C). Rough idling may also indicate a vacuum leak - check all vacuum connections which you disconnected during the install; spray some starting fluid at the base of the carb and the adapter with the engine running. If the engine speed changes, you have a leaky gasket.

Congratulations, you can now out-drag a VW Beetle! -Alex

[terkill]

This is an amazing step by step you made here. I just printed it out and I'm gonna use it to put mine in tomorrow. Thank you!

Your valve cover looks really good, did you use heat resistant paint? I had seen regular black gloss or regular restolium flake off from heat after a while.

[alehander]

Yep, that's engine/header paint. I prep all parts by sandblasting or soaking in Simple Green. Good luck with your install. -Alex

[ARCHINSTL]

alehander - XLNT writeup and GREAT pix!
Several things I encountered on my Weber installation last Fall...
The Redline adapter was less desirable than indicated: I had to redrill/align (ovalize) the holes with the manifold studs; I also had to redrill/align (ovalize) the carb's base plate holes to align with the Redline-supplied studs which were installed into the adapter plate's misdrilled/tapped holes; I had to "flat-sand" (with emery cloth on a flat surface)the top and bottom of the adapter so the surfaces were smooth and truly flat - ditto on the carb's base.
Redline had no response when I queried it... Tacky, at best, I thought - but then, I was not buying a double DCOE setup, so less attention was paid to my plaint...
Tom M.

NOTE - I later replaced the OE Aisan spring with the kit-supplied lighter-duty spring; it seemed a bit more "controllable."
Note also that I used the OE Aisan bellcrank attached to the Weber U-bracket; this permitted a straight alignment for the cable. The cable slack that alehander mentions is important; what I thought was sufficient slack was not, and I could not get the idle RPMs below 1200 until I figured that out - D'oh... That RPM drop to the proper 800 also affected the idle mixture, so I had to do the lean-drop method again.
Note that after taking the above photo, I bent the Weber U-bracket a bit so it aligns the OE Aisan bellcrank better with the cable stop on the cable bracket.

NOTE - The bicycle brake cable anchor bolt is from the pictured center-pull straddle wire carrier, and not from a regular side-pull caliper; the former is stouter and fits the U-bracket slot much better.

I followed splatterdog's basic routing layout (regulator and gauge where the EBCV+ mounted on the fender), save I used the OE phenolic plate for the PCV connection, removed all emissions tubing and appurtenances and blanked off the EGR port with an aluminum plate. I also moved the carb's fuel intake to the outboard side - just switch the plug and tube - I liked all of the fuel lines being away from the exhaust manifold and heat, which might lessen the chance of a hot soak issue this Summer (dunno, though).

The silly little plastic Redline-supplied fitting for the vapor tube to the air cleaner broke immediately, so I used some Home Depot plumbing fittings - much better.
Since I used the phenolic plate, there was a clearance issue with the air cleaner. I marked and Dremel-cut away part of the hood bracing in two spots. I then put a couple of small pieces of ribbed rubber window insulation on appropriate spots on the top of the air cleaner.

[andrewjoelpeters]

ARCHINSTL, thanks for the great photos--they've really been a help. Where'd you get that Weber U-bracket? It looks like a perfect solution, but my kit doesn't have one.

A.J.

[ARCHINSTL]

A.J. -
The Weber U-bracket came with the whole kit, K-740. I thought it was standard from Redline, regardless of the vendor. Call the supplier if you bought new. Call Redline if you bought used - can't be that much.
Also check out the attached new photo to see revised spring path.
Tom M.