TVSV leaks PETROL

How-to's and repair secrets for your 4WD can be found here. Have a question? Ask it in here!
Post Reply
CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

TVSV leaks PETROL

Post by CASE »

So if I can't replace this TVSV, I can probably make it work, it's not cracked or anything. But it tends to leak a little GAS (!) when I start it for a sec and shut it down cold. Float bowl looks good, but output smells rich. Is this a floater or jets issue? I'm worried there may be gas getting into the coolant or something-what would back up gas all the way to the TVSV valve? I'm currently correcting the abuses of her previous owner (and oh yes, the Tercelerator WILL be cherry) so some vac lines may still be wrong, valves are next. How can I avoid bursting into flames?
-CASE
jimpomm
Advanced Member
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:22 pm
Location: ithaca,ny

Post by jimpomm »

CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

gas to vac lines

Post by CASE »

That was very helpful, also, the 'much better than chilton's' vac diograms posted by some tercelerated genius called anarchisto or something
(viewtopic.php?t=2810)
was also very helpful. I have one of those abused tercs where the vac lines where hooked up at arbitrary points, then the dumbkopf mechanics fixed it with carb adjustment (grumble grumble) I thought I had the vacs worked out, but I just started learning about the AAP- and guess what?! the big one way valve in the hose going back to the top of the carb was in backwards! So I got an easy free fix, and once the vac stopped backing up there, the AAP stopped pushing gas into the TVSV! I'm still gonna seal the TVSV, and check out my AAP, but this is a case where a little helpful info did a ton of good-'YALL RULE!, thanks
-CASE
User avatar
ARCHINSTL
Goldie Forever
Posts: 6369
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:52 pm
My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis

Re: gas to vac lines

Post by ARCHINSTL »

CASE wrote:...called anarchisto or something.
Well, I am very much a Liberal, but not quite an anarchist ('cept maybe to George & Dick & Karl...).
:D
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

Archinstl, I stand corrected

Post by CASE »

A genius by any name... Since I straightened out the vac stuff, and lubed up the outside linkage on the carb, all the intake probs that made me want to rebuild my carb are majically going away. When I bought it it was a 3-cyl heavy smoker, now after minimum $$ and effort, the intake and ignition is "stock cherry"
Anyone wishing for carb rebuild, without doing vac lines, ign system, and fuel filter first should note this
-CASE
CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

GOT IT< THANKS

Post by CASE »

there's a hole in my AAP valve diaphragm, most parts stores deny the existance of this elusive membrane, if you have gas in your bottom TVSV vac line, you need one too. Mine's plugged up for safetey till I can find the $$ for a salvage trip. So I have to warm up the engine before drag racing, till I can find the part-huh huh
-CASE
User avatar
Petros
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 11934
Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:31 pm
My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Post by Petros »

you could simply by-pass the whole set-up and allow the vac advance to run the way the BS car always did (BS= "before smog").

You need to consult the manual to verify where the distributor draws the vacuum from before it goes through the TVSV and connect it directly, and block off the other vac lines. T

his valve cuts out the vac advance (which only operates at the part load condition, as in fwy cruise speeds) to presumably reduce emissions, and it allows the advance to operate "normally" after the engine gets hot. When the advance kicks in it cools the engine and the exhaust temps (and improves the economy). So it seems to me it would be best to allow the vac advance to always be engaged (espcially if there is something malfunctioning with the TVSV system).

Good luck.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
jimpomm
Advanced Member
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:22 pm
Location: ithaca,ny

Post by jimpomm »

Case there is a AAP diaphragm in the sorrenson rebuild carb kit from autozone
CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

Post by CASE »

Petros wrote:you could simply by-pass the whole set-up and allow the vac advance to run the way the BS car always did (BS= "before smog").

You need to consult the manual to verify where the distributor draws the vacuum from before it goes through the TVSV and connect it directly, and block off the other vac lines. T

his valve cuts out the vac advance (which only operates at the part load condition, as in fwy cruise speeds) to presumably reduce emissions, and it allows the advance to operate "normally" after the engine gets hot. When the advance kicks in it cools the engine and the exhaust temps (and improves the economy). So it seems to me it would be best to allow the vac advance to always be engaged (espcially if there is something malfunctioning with the TVSV system).

Good luck.
Having vac advance all the time is next on my list, It's hard to stop myself, but i'm trying to get everything working the way it was designed before I get started on mods, that should help me through smog test, but I heard you talking about this vac line bypass in another thread and it sounds like a really good idea. Not gonna mess with the advance 'till I get timing right, it's not far off now, only chortles when I should'a geared down and missed it-deisles a tiny bit ,could be the super hot BOSCH platinums(I'm only keeping them in there because they're expensive, I don't trust them)but I might need to play with the carb a little more, the choke, cold idle, and warm idle are all good, but I'm only getting like 26-30MPG, It has over 200k miles, but I know this car could do better than 26MPG If I set the timing and fuel mix a little better-yall have been really helpful-thanks
-CASE
CASE
Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:15 am
Location: Spooktown,WA

Post by CASE »

jimpomm wrote:Case there is a AAP diaphragm in the sorrenson rebuild carb kit from autozone
If the other stuff in the kit is stuff I need, I'm totally on it, otherwise it's SALVAGE YARD TIME! I'ts funny, Autozone is one of the places that didn't believe in the AAP 'till I showed them a picture of it in a manual "what is it really called?when you say diaphragm, you mean the whole pump?Do you mean it's some kind of valve?" they got very close to asking if my Mommy knew that I was in a parts store-I'm 34Dangit! I wonder if they would give me this kind of jib if I asked for an Axial Turbined VIBflexor, that might be fun
-CASE
takza
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 4414
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 4:28 am
Location: Tibetan plateau

Post by takza »

Bosch plugs aren't so good in cars prone to ping...they cause more of it...though they last a long time. NGK V-powers work good.

Some parts you need to find at the Toyota dealer? That diaphram shouldn't be too much.

We let ARCHINSTL moderate and stuff just to keep him out of trouble and so we know where he is at all times. :D
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

Image
Post Reply