CV Halfshaft Replacement Question

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:56 am

I just had to replace the drivers side shaft again, clunking while turning. I had a really hard time getting the new shaft into the transaxle, though. I still don't feel like it's in there all the way, but it is definitely tight. I know that there is a special tool Toyota has (looks like a horseshoe on a stick) to install and remove halfshafts, but what do people here use? I really don't want to smack the outboard end of the shaft with a hammer..... Anyone else have problems getting them to seat?

By the way, this new reman one clicks.....stupid napa....

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:08 am

I use a large flat head screw driver. I put it on the lip of the inside joint (where toyota would put that SST you were talking about), on an angle pointing towards the transaxle, and I pound with a hammer. Usually pops right in pretty quick and easy. Usually it is pretty easy to tell when it is in right, as you wont be able to just pull the axle back out again. It sorta makes an obvious pop-in movement when it engages internally.

keith · Post by **keith** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:00 pm

I use a crowbar. The semi-straight end has just enough angle to get a good grip on the groove, but I can hit it straight in.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:18 pm

What brand is it through NAPA?
A crow or pry seems to work well.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:15 pm

The remanufacturer is ARI. I don't know much about them, but so far I'm not impressed.

I, too, use the flat end of the crowbar and a hammer. Thanks for all the replies.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 1:17 pm

Here's a little tidbit:

I just got back from my local Napa (where I've easily spent over $3000 in the last 2 years.) I had gone in to let them know that I just installed this halfshaft and that it was already clicking and growling. My usual napa clerk started giving me the "well, ARI reman stuff is really good, and I'm not going to be able to keep replacing these under warranty for you" spiel. Is this normal? Isn't a warranty a warranty? Am I crazy? I know that I'm not a rocket scientist, but I'm just replacing a halfshaft.

Anyhoo, he said that he "could probably get me one more" but that would be it because "obviously there's something else wrong woth the car." What else would make a clicking noise when turning at speed under power? I just went and did tight circles in an empty parking lot. I was at about 3krpm in 1st gear and there was no clicking to either side. As soon as I hit the road, I made a standard right hand turn at about 15-20mph in second gear under medium throttle, and there was the clicking/steering wheel pulse.....

weird....any thoughts?

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 3:50 am

Wheel bearings or brakes?

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:39 am

I know you know about suspension noise from our similar but different front clunks described in past posts.
However -
1. Try doing the 15-20 MPH turns in neutral, describing the same arcs as those done under power. It may be that the problem is not present with the "tight" circles you did in the parking lot (these would be probably hard to duplicate without power), but is evident only in less "radical" turning.
2. Is the noise present in the 15-20 MPH turns in various gears (meaning differing RPM levels)? Granted, this might be straining it in 1st.
3. Since the noise is coming from the driver's side, coud it be related to the balancer thing on the shaft? I've not done mine yet, so am not familiar with the device, so no snorting from anyone, please
3. Long shot, but could the wheel not be snugged on the studs? This happened on a '54 Ford of my Dad's, and was truly a clicking that only appeared in stop-and-go type driving, as the wheel moved on the studs (rear, 'natch).
4. Try lifting the car and shaking/moving the left wheel assembly.
5. takza's post about bearings sounds good.

Keep us informed (as you always do-Thanks).
Tom M.

keith · Post by **keith** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:24 am

The EMPI axle for the drivers side is now available for $92 and change.

http://replacement.car-stuff.com/parts/ ... c=true#top

jwk77pgf · Post by **jwk77pgf** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:32 pm

I had the same problem with mine about 4 years ago. The original axles had 200K miles on them and started clicking a little bit. I replaced them with remans and they were clicking worse than the originals only after 1K miles. I had them replaced again, same problem after 1K. I tried 5 different sets from 4 different places. All went bad after 1K miles. So within 6 months time, I had had 5 sets of axles installed. They all told me something was wrong with the car and that the axles were very good. SO...I went to Toyota, extremely frustrated, and ordered brand new factory axles. They cost me almost a grand for the pair! I really hated spending a grand on a Tercel after only spending $140 on remans, but I have put 80K+ miles on the NEW axles with never a single click EVER, and I am not easy on my Tercel one bit! Unfortunately, the axles are now $1200 a pair through Toyota, so my second tercel is just sitting until I get enough money saved up. They just don't make reman axles worth a shit at all. Even though this info may be heart breaking, hope it helps.

mailman · Post by **mailman** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:31 pm

Here is a question on half shafts. How long does it take them to go out. Mine has been clicking for 4000 miles. driven hard around corners in the mts all the stuff and still going. and has anybody had one come loose and had to shift to 4 wd to limp home. The Mailman

keith · Post by **keith** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:13 pm

Yes, and you can't limp home in 4WD. The axle unhinged at the wheel wobbles all over the place. Even at 5 mph, it will beat everything in its way to death. You can drive it up on a car carrier in 4WD though.

How long, I don't know, it was an O'Reilly reman, lifetime warrantee, about 6 mo old, always clicked on turns, as has its replacement that has lasted about 2.5 years but getting very loud now.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 6:03 pm

Any update on the EMPI axles? Someone here was going to buy them and install them and feedback.....

keith · Post by **keith** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:35 pm

OK, I just put in the EMPI axle for the drivers side. It is definitely a lot tighter than the reman. But there are issues. The reman is a genuine Toyota axle, albiet worn completely out that someone put new boots on and called it remanufactured. The EMPI is made in China and does not have the appearance of initial quality that the Toyota unit originally had. But a new Toyota axle is $554 where the brand new EMPI is $92. It looks like it will hold up though.

Here is an out of the box comparison. Note that the ring on the inner joint used to install it is not there. I just pulled and pushed on the shaft until it popped in. It took about 3 pushes to drive it in.

Like all newly bought shafts, you have to transfer the dust shield on the outer joint.

It took less time to R&R the shaft than it did to jack it up. But now I have another problem, the strut fell out, upper mount broke. Now coltarms, if you will be so kind as to go to my question about struts, I'd appreciate your input. I have some pictures for you to look at. It seems you to have some experience there. I have read your posts on the subject but I am still confused.

BTW, I am going to get the passenger side shaft as soon as its listed at the web site I bought this one at. It was listed for a while but I missed it.

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:23 pm

...a new Toyota axle is $554 where the brand new EMPI is $92.

New Toyota axle assemblies can be had at click me here for $300 (right) and $385 (left). But $92 still is a far better price. I paid approx $125 Cdn each for my new EMPI axles, but only the outer CV joints and shafts were new - the inner joints were reman Toyota joints.

The big (huge?) advantage to the EMPI axles is that both the inner AND outer CV joints can be replaced individually; not so with the Toyota axles where only the inner CV joints can be replaced separately. The Toyota outer joints are integral with the axle shafts and the axle shaft/outer CV joint has to be replaced as a unit.