Radiator questions

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:58 am

I'd love to help, but you'd realize after about 5 minutes that I'm not needed. I'd love to be there for moral support, though. Have to check my schedule. January and February are pretty busy months with my boy's Cub Scout pack (dad is asst cubmaster AND asst den leader.)

I would recommend, though, that you try to do as many little/inexpensive things as you can at that time. Before yanking the old rad, flush the system. There is a procedure in the FSM that covers draining the block. I'm sure someone on this board can recommend a good cooling system cleaning agent. If not, water works fine. Just have lots of old milk jugs or soda bottles laying around to catch the nasty stuff. Then go to the auto parts store and buy new radiator hoses, cap, and a new thermostat and gasket (make sure you have the correct gasket for your car as my local napa had 2 different gaskets listed for the same engine.) While you have your radiator out, it is a good time to change out your timing and/or alternator belts if either are looking cracked (a wheel puller is really helpful for the timing belt job and remember not to let ANY coolant get on the timing belt.)

When you install the new radiator, cut up and use the box it came in as a guard for the fins during installation (if necessary.) Also, take a small screw driver and bend out any flattened fins. A quick cursory rinse with distilled water before installation would be a good idea....

Good Luck!

Mickey_D · Post by **Mickey_D** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:18 am

coltarms wrote:Dunno if the Terc puts out enough heat or if the ATF circuit on a Terc radiator would be enough to heat water for a shower, but it sure beats cold creek water.....

Heh, if our heater core is anything to go by, I would think not!!

The only thing I really don't klike about the Terc is the pure lack of passenger heating. At least in my car anyways. When the temps drop down into the negatives, I can't get the interior above freezing. And if there's anything on the windshield, I have to either clear it by hand, or wait for the meager defroster to try and melt it BEFORE I move the car, otherwise the windchill effect means that whatever is on the windshield sure ain't metling from the defroster!!

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 1:46 pm

I've noticed crappy heat too -- going up to Mt Hood when the car ran, it was only like 25 degrees out (not real cold) but the heat just couldnt keep up.
Set to max, hi fan, recirc, everything, couldnt keep the heat coming.
Wonder if theres a way to divert more engine heat into the cabin without major work...

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:10 pm

I never got good heat 'till I replaced my failed t-stat and FLUSHED the coolant loop. I flushed with distilled (not tap or spring) water until it came out clear after running in a hot engine for about 5 minutes. (note, I only used water. If you use a cleaning product, follow the directions on the package.) Remember to turn the heater on full when flushing. Also never hurts to find your heater core and make sure the outside of it is clean. Layers of dirt, dust, and crap will reduce heat transfer.

I still don't have a very good working defrogger. It gets hot, but it seems that the air flow is poorly aimed or weak....

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:05 pm

Here's my big complaint... Set to defogger= a little bit less air on my feet and hands, and a little bit more on the windsheild. My diverter is crappy. When on defogger, the windsheild stays clear when its just me, even down to -10. Put even 1 more person in the car and it'll stay clear to 30. Full car? Forget it. And even with just me, the meager little side blower vents for the defogger can't keep my front windows clear.

Here's a huge bit for everyone. Make sure that when you set to full heat, your heater circuit valve actually opens all the way. Mine doesn't. Again, crappy setup behind the dash combined with lack of proper lube.

Never done a real flush on my system. Likely should.

I can be sweating my fool head off and the person in the back seat will be shivering. Kinda sucks.
Best idea? Get another smaller heater core with built in blower and set it up in the very back. Have it somehow switched from the front.

2manytoys4menow · Post by **2manytoys4menow** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:50 pm

Just a quick note to remind anyone who lives in the colder climates !!! Don't get the 2 row radiator , stay with the single core . I've got the 2 core in my 84 and I have to tape over my (custom) grill during the winter time to keep the car up to temp . I have a new thermostat (190?) I let the terc warm up for about 2 minutes in the morning before I take off and it takes awhile to get fully warmed up . If I didn't tape it over the needle would hardly come off the cold mark . The 2 core is great for the summer time in really hot weather . My wifes 85 terc has the single core radiator and the car warms up alot quicker and the heater is just on the lighter side of nucler

. My heater does ok once the car is warmed up but it's nothing like my 85 . I also replaced the head on the 84 terc about 5 thousand miles ago and I just did a valve adjustment and noticed the oil has been not been getting up to temp and it's leaving a small surface of sludge behind . I run regular valvoline dino oil (10-30) and have done 3 filter changes since the head swap . I've been driving my toy 4x4 truck lately so I haven't had a chance to drive the terc much with our colder weather .

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:02 pm

A big rad should not effect the engine when it's running below thermostat opening temps. If you can't warm up, don't be so hasty just to blame the 2-core. I have a 2-core and it works fine. I have my A/C Condensor blocked off by cardboard behind the grille, but the rad is fully exposed. I run hot when its 5F out. But personally, I think my water pump is on its way out. It likes to get hot till I rev it, then it cools rather quickly. Cap is good, level is good...

Colorado is a bit of a paradox though... Run a 1-core and overheat it the sometimes 110F summers? Or run a 2-core and "allegedly" run too cool in the sometimes -10F winters?

keith · Post by **keith** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:09 pm

A big radiator can make a car run a little cooler, not dead cold though. The thermostat does not go from fully closed to fully open with a 1 degree change in coolant temperature. It begins to open at a much lower temperature. A large radiator in cold temperature could result in the engine finding a balance well below the fully open temperature, not sure how much below but some. That difference could be felt in the cabin as lack of heat.