EFI 3A-C

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 2:46 am

We are trying to convert Hornbeam to fuel injection using a Denso/Suzuki TBI system from a 1991 Suzuki Swift. The Suzuki EFI wiring harness is mostly separate from the main harness and most of the required sensors are on the throttle body, so it looks pretty easy to drop in. And the ignition timing is not ECU-controlled, meaning that the factory Toyota ignition stuff doesn't need to be changed at all. My friend is working on an adapter to get the throtle body on the Tercel manifold. Then a little wiring and a high pressure fuel system should get it running.

I don't really expect any increase in power, but it should start and drive much better. I can't wait to see how it will start in winter, the carburetor was pretty bad with no choke. :blink:

Does anybody know if the SR5 gauge clusters had a VSS (speed sensor)? We never had cruise control, but I'm wondering if all the clusters had the VSS anyway. The Suzuki ECU wants to see that speed signal, without it the ECU goes into fail-safe mode. We have a few other ideas to get around that, but I'd really prefer to have a proper speed signal.

I think we can do this, but it almost seems too easy.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 2:05 pm

You can use the speed sensor from another Toyota car with cruise control from about the same time period. It mounts on the back of the speedometer. It has two wires and switches between open and closed four times per revolution of the speedometer cable.

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 10:18 pm

We do have a gauge cluster from a Corolla ('92 I think), do you think the VSS from that would work with the stock Tercel speedometer? I think it's time to open up the clusters and see what's in them.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:51 pm

It will probably be the same one, if not then try something a bit older. The late 80's Celicas and mid 80's Corollas are definitely the right kind.

mjskipper · Post by **mjskipper** » Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:54 pm

cruise was available for the tercel, my 86 4wd 6spd wagon has it. Dont know if this will help

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Mon Jul 05, 2004 11:25 pm

Yeah, I knew cruise was available. We have a switch for it from the junkyard. The cluster did not have the VSS, but the Corolla one went right in and gives us the correct speed pulse.

Also, the TBI adapter plate is done. Pictures should be showing up sooner or later.

Next step is getting the engine and transmission back in. That damn 4WD selector arm is slowing us down. If the arm is still available from Toyota for a reasonable price, it's getting cut off.

A torch had no effect on it. Of course we really need to change the seal after using the torch on it.

I can't wait to fire it up with EFI!

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Jul 06, 2004 4:47 pm

Gasoline Fumes wrote:Next step is getting the engine and transmission back in. That damn 4WD selector arm is slowing us down. If the arm is still available from Toyota for a reasonable price, it's getting cut off. A torch had no effect on it. Of course we really need to change the seal after using the torch on it.

Might try this method:

"I've never found anything better than hitting a part with the torch quick and get it hot (but not glowing or anything). Then I carefully spray PB Blaster on a little at a time until the part cools enough that the PB Blaster does not burn off but instead stays wet. A couple more applications and put a wrench on it about 30-60 seconds after it cools to the point the Blaster will stay on it. There is something about the part cooling that sucks in the oil. The fastener always comes right off. Not much wait time (i.e. spray it down the day before you wrench). I can't believe the things I've gotten off with this, including wretched old brake bleeders that hadn't been opened in 13+ years in the winter salt just last weekend."

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:26 am

That's what we did.

The nut was no problem, but the tapered pin won't move. I'm sure a really good whack from a hammer would knock it loose, but I'm sure that's a bad idea.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 6:40 am

Might try a length of 1/2" or 3/4" water/gas pipe UNDER the end of the pin opposite the nut...turn the nut out so it is maybe 1/16" past the end of the bolt and hit it with a 5lb hammer?

IF you make sure that ALL the load will be transmitted to the pipe. the end of the pin fits in the center of the pipe, and it is on concrete....you might move it?

Don't hit the trans case...you might make a hole.

OR, get a chunk of STEEL...make a small HEAVY DUTY c-clamp specifically to push it out?

Thereminator · Post by **Thereminator** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:06 pm

Me'bey use a small,strong C~clamp with a socket for clearance.Tighten the clamp,then tap the socket side with a hammer,like removeing a U~joint~bareing.

Takza,when I replace my exaust,how do I get the converted~cats in the pipe,and how can you tell if they've converted?

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:31 pm

Could you drill it out? I would at least try this, with as fast a drill and as sharp and hard a drill bit as I can use. If you could somehow gain access to a die grinder and one of those really hard burr bits, that would help a great deal. I also agree with the others that something could be rigged up with a C clamp. Of course all this talk is just trying to get around hitting it really hard with a hammer. Personally what I would do in the situation is find something to use as a punch such as another bolt of the same size, and hit it with a hammer. The pin is so close to the centre of the shaft that the force you put on the pin by hammering it will translate to a way smaller reaction force at the shift fork selector arm, and looking at the diagram here in the service manual, my intuition is that you will not bend or break that selector arm. I could do calculations, but like I said, in that situation I would likely be reaching for the hammer.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 5:15 pm

Thereminator wrote:Takza,when I replace my exaust,how do I get the converted~cats in the pipe,and how can you tell if they've converted?

Maybe you shouldn't have asked?

This is ONE of the CONVERTED CATS:

You don't want a lot of these around...trust me. :rolleyes:

But then they are OK....till they are converted...........

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 6:19 pm

Drilling it wouldn't work, we tried. The drill bit didn't even leave a mark on the hardened shaft. And the arm is no longer available.

The pipe idea might work. Maybe jamb the pipe against the wall? We have been gently hammering on it, I'd like to get a good hit on it.

I've never seen cats come out of the exhaust, but I saw a mouse once come out of a 1971 Plymouth Fury's exhaust. The mouse was about as happy as that cat.

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 6:37 pm

Some EFI progress pictures:
<a href='http://www.photobucket.com/albums/0903/gasolinefumes/' target='_blank'>http://www.photobucket.com/albums/0903/ ... efumes/</a>

See it's true!

And the EFI donor:

takza · Post by **takza** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 4:50 am

Gasoline Fumes wrote: The pipe idea might work. Maybe jamb the pipe against the wall? We have been gently hammering on it, I'd like to get a good hit on it.

A bicycle I had as a kid...had this exact same kind of bolt holding the pedal arms on the shaft....I soon learned NOT to tighten these pinch bolts too much. They were difficult to get out even in this open situation.

If you can get a pipe set up in the right place...I think it will work...just don't loosen the shaft in the alum trans housing.

You could MAKE an arm out of mild steel and cut the old one off?