Pulling diff, after trans pulled first

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:01 pm

Searched the site but cannot find the answer to this, but sure I ran across it somewhere not too long ago, so...

I pulled the trans; now want to pull the diff

Can I pop the front axles from the diff without going thru the whole process of removing the axles at the outboard/wheel ends first?

Reason is that I'm doing this in my garage, but have to have wheels to push the parts car outside after, where I will then remove the front axles and a bunch of other stuff prior to sending the remaining carcass to the recyclers.

Anyone done this before, any ideas, any help?

Thanks for any input.

Wayne

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 3:25 am

All you can do is try...not sure there is enough play lengthwise. I think if you remove the 2 bolts on the hub...you can just swing the outside end out to pull the diff end? You'd have to wire the axles up and replace the bolts to move it.

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:02 am

Thanks, takza, will give that a try - anything will be better than doing it all, only to have to put it back together again just to push it outside.

xirdneh · Post by **xirdneh** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:54 am

takza wrote:All you can do is try...not sure there is enough play lengthwise. I think if you remove the 2 bolts on the hub...you can just swing the outside end out to pull the diff end? You'd have to wire the axles up and replace the bolts to move it.

dissconnect the tie rod and lower ball joint
you should be able to swing the hub out far enough to get the axel
out of the diif.
if you dissconnect the two bolts at the bottom end of the struts
you may have to have a front end alignment

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:07 pm

dissconnect the tie rod and lower ball joint
you should be able to swing the hub out far enough to get the axel
out of the diif.

Doing this at the same time as you pry the axle out will be pretty impressive without help.

Though it may take longer it is always best to do extra work than risk futher damage.

With that said I wonder if you could remove the wheel bolt and drop the diff and pull the axles out at the same time without messing around with the suspension. Others may know if this is a bad idea I am thinknig out loud

However if you do mess around with the suspension to released the stabilizer bar for a little more play. Be careful though those bolts are a bit suspicious and may not go back in.

Good Luck

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:09 pm

For me, the easiest way to pull an axle is...remove axle nut, jack up car, remove two lower ball joint nuts, pull steering knuckle outward and slip axle from hub, remove from differential. Done. I used to do it the long, winded way and found this to be simpler. Don't even have to remove the wheel.
Bolt the ball joint back on and move the car.

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:30 pm

Chris wrote:Bolt the ball joint back on and move the car.

Moving the car without the axles in place can damage the wheel bearings. It's a good idea to use a large bolt and nut to replace the axle.

2wagons · Post by **2wagons** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:51 am

Chris, IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m interested in your technique of not removing a wheel to take out the axle. Do you turn the wheel all the way to one side? Are you working under the car on the ground?

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:36 pm

Thanks to everyone for the ideas, suggestions, tips and everything.

The diff is out - weighs in at 38 lbs. In the end I used Chris' method, but removed the wheels as well to have a better looksee at what I was doing. Put the axles back in the front knuckles and torqued the axle nuts on, in preparation for pushing the car outside. Will wire the axles up as takza suggests, before moving it.

Could not find anything in the FSM or Chilton's cautioning against moving the vehicle without the front axles installed, but Chiltons does specifically say not to do this with 1987-1990 sedans (I presume Chiltons is referrring to the EL31 chassis with 3E engine).

Is there a caution somewhere in the FSM or Chiltons that I could not find?

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:20 pm

waynehoc wrote:Could not find anything in the FSM or Chilton's cautioning against moving the vehicle without the front axles installed, but Chiltons does specifically say not to do this with 1987-1990 sedans (I presume Chiltons is referrring to the EL31 chassis with 3E engine).

Is there a caution somewhere in the FSM or Chiltons that I could not find?

Maybe it doesn't affect these cars. I just know I've seen the warning about other Toyotas.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:30 am

The CV axle does aid in locating the assembly.. As long as everything else is in tact, you should be fine under maybe 5mph. Wouldn't risk a whole lot higher....
Might have something to do with the bearing or something.... (shrug)

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:57 pm

2wagons....

The car is up on jack stands, the wheel is turned outwards and yes, I am working on the ground (ie. laying under the car).

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Sat Jun 24, 2006 8:23 am

From the Mitchell On-Demand System for computers - just received the version for Toyota 1983 - 2000 that I bought off eBay...

"CAUTION: Vehicle weight must not be allowed to rest on wheel bearings and hub, WITHOUT axle shaft installed and axle shaft nut tightened to specification."

Wayne