Rich

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Apr 22, 2006 7:11 pm

Once again, the rich problem arises.
I have hard-core "High-Speed Glazing" on my plugs, I cannot get better than 25mpg, but am consistant at 25. The tailpipe is COATED with a thick black sooty carbony substance.
I can't see any mixture screws other than the idle one in the FSM.

What the hey is going on?

I don't seem to be chewing through oil, but I am pretty sure I have shot rings. The lack of a reading in the compression test and the appearance of the "mayo" while I was using a water/xylene mix to try and decarbon my combustion chambers seems to air on this side. The "mayo" in the oil went away after I stopped the treatment.

I can't see any oil leaks, but the issue is that my PS reservoir leaks, so the PS fluid that comes out creates its own oil spots.

This is so frustrating... And My 45 and 35 tanks had me so encouraged!

BTW, I have switched to Diamond Shamrock fuel. Am running Super now after an apparent mileage gain. Odd how it never used to make a difference, but I now can see a visible one. Maybe something really is changing inside my engine that makes that so.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 4:29 am

You don't say how much oil are using between changes. If some...some heavier oil might help? LaPointe uses straight 40W in summer and he tests for mpg.

Have you tried the ozone air bleed to lean things out some?

Is your EGR working?

Is it the new gas?

You will see some white in the oil sometimes if you use water to carbon clean.

Might try adjusting your ignt timing. Maybe the advance has failed?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:18 pm

I dunno if the EGR is working. I've passed emissions, so maybe. It doesn't look as clogged as the other one was.
Have yet to try the ozone. I'll blame laziness.
It was there with the King's stuff, but so was the sand in the fuel filter.... DS's doesn't seem to be depositing sand in my filter.
I haven't gone below full on the dipstick in the past 2000 miles...

I put the Bosch's I had laying around in (when I got the engine in the Blue way back when it had the Bosch's in it and I put the NGK's in their place) No difference in idle or what-have-you I can see. Haven't driven on them yet.
Last I checked timing (about 3 weeks ago) it was behaving correctly. It rewarded my exam with a nice double-zolt up my arm, across my chest, down the other arm into the timing light. Fun when you feel it go all that way. lol.

It behaves very oddly... It'll not have power in places in the band sometimes, then it'll have gobs of it. Sometimes I'll get horrible mileage keeping the RPM low (fuel meter jumps down to half in 50 miles) other times it'll wait till 110 miles to go when in the high RPM's. I know my sender is faulty, but it usually is at 70 miles at half, then reads accuratly.

I think I'll have to re-ring and do all the major seals and so on.... I NEED MONEY! lol.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 2:58 am

I driven cars hard that got 1200 miles to the quart or less and smoked. I don't think the rings are really the issue.

I'm thinking carb problems having to do with activation of the second barrel or maybe the power valve is leaking. Choke not backing off?

Some internal circuit is fuxored? Vacuum leak? Diaphram leaking?

Maybe take the top off and try plugging the power valve so it won't work?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:22 am

(shrug)
I had the whole thing rebuilt less than a year ago, dunno how much that encompasses.

Did the ozone mod, tapping into the furthest back of the 3 ports. Had pretty much equal vacuum all the time, whereas the other 2 pretty much either had none or would stall the engine with the absolute slightest leak. The furthest forward is the one that created stall. I'll try to get pics soon. No difference as of the 50 miles I've driven with it.

We'll see if the Bosch's make a difference. Or the ozone.

Then why do I have 90PSI readable compression? The valves are all adjusted correctly. Unless they are all burned, or something else rediculous is happening....

Soutthpaw · Post by **Soutthpaw** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:27 pm

90 is low for this engine. have you done a cylinder leakdown test. Your school should have a cylinder leakage tester if you don't have one. That would be what I would try next. Did you do the rebuild yourself or have it done somewhere???

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:32 pm

The carb was rebuilt by a local(ish) mechanic who specializes in earlier Toyota's, and when I said Terc 4wd he knew exactly what I meant.
The school's leakdown tester is 35 years old and broken.

Fingers · Post by **Fingers** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:52 pm

Is the 90psi a reading on a standard comp. test? Have you tried a wet test, and if so, did it change the reading significantly?

Fingers

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 5:10 am

To avoid idling problems with the ozone bleed....you probably want to find the vac line going to the vac modulator and tee into this to draw the air...it only pulls air above idle.

Bosch plugs tend to cause pinging in these cars...though they will burn in oil some. Just have to set the timing back a little. NGK V-Powers?

Seems you got better mileage after you did the ring cleaning thing? I'd try some 10W40 or 20W50...and install a PCV jar to clean up the blowby going thru the PCV.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:58 pm

Did the cleaning again, with no gain.
Wet made ZERO difference. Neither before nor after valve adjustment.
I'm convinced the oil just pools in the center dish-thingy anyway. And you're insane if you think I'm going to put in enough to flow over the dish.
It has yet to effect my idle.

I'm going to try a new kind of oil... Read elsewhere.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon May 01, 2006 4:52 am

Was looking at a dist cap yesterday...if you do the ozone thing...you definitely need a vent...besides the outlet to the intake.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon May 01, 2006 11:27 pm

Its on the opposite side of the vacuum tube.

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Mon May 01, 2006 11:48 pm

The caps are already vented to the atmosphere. It's on the bottom of the distributor.

Why wouldn't you want to put enough oil in "to flow over the dish"?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue May 02, 2006 10:32 am

Raise the compression ratio up by, oh lets say 5 points probably?
Think about it... You are decreasing the area of the combustion chamber at TDC by maybe 1/3 or 1/2. Thats not potentially harmful at all!

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Wed May 03, 2006 9:52 pm

By what method did you come to the conclusion that CR would be raised by 5 points? The SWAG method? After cc'ing the combustion chamber and piston dish, measureing the deck height and the head gasket and calculating the CR...the most you would attain is 10.4:1. A far cry from the 5 points you stated. All that aside...when you do a compression test, wet or dry, you should have the spark plugs removed. No potential harm at all.