Well now....
I replaced my front left caliper, as the bleeder had snapped off inside and refused to come out with coaxing from PB and a Ez-Out. The other side was to be replaced, but the NAPA dumbasses sent us the wrong Calip style. The brake line reciever pointed down, where it should have been up. How very irritating. We finally got its snapped bleeder out, and threw a new one in. All 4 brake flex-line were replaced. That was actually VERY easy to do, once you figured out you have to remove the top snap ring, not unscrew it (lol). The front ones were very very cracked and tired. The rears were actually very much in tact, but I decided to replace them anyway.
Put the Cardone Reman Master Cyl on, after bench-bleeding the crap out of it. Reacttached it all, bled it out, and it kept sinking. We went through most of a tall bottle of Synthetic fluid. I then saw that liquid was spraying out of the connections on the master cyl. After much ranting and roaring, I tightented them. Front one kept goozing. I then loosened it, pulled hard up on the line, and retightened. Solved the issue. I then spent 20 minutes cleaning up the fluid. Hope my engine compartment paint isn't demolished.
So now my brakes grab nicely. Still feel very soft, but I haven't driven her in a month and I guess it's just me coming down from the VW Passat and Ford Excursion brake's stiffness. It stops VERY nicely. I took what I believe to be under a hundred feet to stop from 60mph. That damned pedal still feels soft though....
That was $220 in stuff. In other words, both of my last paychecks.
I then started off towards the Springs, and my alternator AND regulator died!
Well, $110 later, I have a new alt and new regulator. Turned out I had a 65Amp alt on there from a Land Cruiser. No wonder the regulator farted out. I'll now have to deal with 10 less amps. Oh well.
My suspension is still horrible. I mean that. It sooooo should not bounce for .2 miles after crossing some railroad tracks going 40mph.
Engine is running much nicer at high RPM's for my adjustments. It seems to have lost out of some off-idle power though. Oh well. I shown a flashlight into the sparker holes after my uber Sea-Foam/Marvel Mystery Oil treatment and it was mirror finish on the cyl walls, and the piston crowns were semi-reflective. Took off the carbon deposits.
I did my typical Sea-Foam treatment, just using none in the tank, and pouring a bottle over instead of using the aerosol form. Went through 1.5 cans doing that, over a week. Sat overnight a lot. I then conconted a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam. I first did 2 treatments with straight MMO, pouring into the barrels. Can you say S-M-O-K-E? After those, I used the 50/50 with the same method, each time letting it sit overnight to soak in nicely. By the time I was done, I was surprised the EPA hadn't sent ninja's in to slit my throat.
On my 150 or so mile trip down, the first half I was cruising around 4600RPM's in 5th. I estimate thats somewhere near or over 100MPH. That was fun. For the last 85miles, I drafted semi's going no faster than 70mph. Where I normally sit at 75miles at half on my faulty guage, I'm sitting at 90 at just under 3/4 full. We'll see where I end up at fill-time.
I really need to do my tranny and rear diff fluid over with some Amsoil.... That's not cheap right there.
Also, I have a friend who might be GIVING me a Weber. We need to see if it is a 32/36 or if it is a 38/38. If it is a 38, I don't quite think the 3A-C could handle it. If it is a 32/36... then YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol.
We'll see where we end up with it.
Developments and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.. etc
Developments and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.. etc
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
-
tercel4wdrules
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1201
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 11:23 pm
- My tercel:: None
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Great! You fixed your Terc...
You're making A LOT more progress than I am. I fixed my accelerator pedal problem. It turned out it was the accelerator cable that was not positioned correctly. Now I can floor it completely. Won't do me any good because now I have to replace the head gasket for sure... it's burning antifreeze (sweet smelling exhaust and all of the other symptoms).
Dang... alternator and regulator at the same time?
I can't do any type of treatment that has smoke as a by-product. My neighbors will call the fire department.
One more thing... where am I going to get all of this time to do all of my necessary repairs?? Wait a minute... that's right, spring break! It's just a couple of weeks away. A whole week to replace a head gasket, flush the cooling system, replace rad and fuel hoses, spray some carb cleaner, and figure out how to fix the adjustments on the control panel.
You're making A LOT more progress than I am. I fixed my accelerator pedal problem. It turned out it was the accelerator cable that was not positioned correctly. Now I can floor it completely. Won't do me any good because now I have to replace the head gasket for sure... it's burning antifreeze (sweet smelling exhaust and all of the other symptoms).
Dang... alternator and regulator at the same time?
I can't do any type of treatment that has smoke as a by-product. My neighbors will call the fire department.
One more thing... where am I going to get all of this time to do all of my necessary repairs?? Wait a minute... that's right, spring break! It's just a couple of weeks away. A whole week to replace a head gasket, flush the cooling system, replace rad and fuel hoses, spray some carb cleaner, and figure out how to fix the adjustments on the control panel.
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
Heh... My SB started last Fri... Mostly because I'm saying FU to CSAP week. Colorado Student Assessment Program. You know, the royal PITA standardized testing. I don't have to take it, but they make you come in for 40 minutes x2 classes a day this week. I opted to visit my friend lol.
I'd start with that head gasket. You'll need to remove the carb and the manifolds. The worst part of this is remembering vacuum lines. Where they go, remembering to reconnect ALL of them... etc. The mannie bolts are a PITA. Some are very hard to get to, and again require the removal of the carb and its heat shield. I tried to do it with the carb on... Just can't get to some of those bolts. The EGR will have to come off... You'll want to see if it's salvagable. If its a solid carbon chunk, the mechanism is likely frozen and doomed. But it sure as hell isn't cheap. I got a low-end quote of $120 from someone. All for a PITA emissions thing that'll just clog up again... Grumble.....
Once all that is off, the timing belt must come off... Now here's the kicker... You have to maintain a good connection with the lower teeth, remember where the upper Cam wheel was and where the belt was on it. Otherwise you'll have to do a cam-timing job. Well, it's good to check it regardless, as the upper cam wheel can and likely will move while its off.
You'll need a breaker bar and a 12mm socket to get the bolts out. The center left one (looking back-front) is a PAIN to get at past the cam. Thus the likely movement of the cam, unless you wait to disconnect it. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you follow the repair manual's instructed loosening/tightening orders, and only loosen a little bit per bolt until they are free-spinning, then you can fully pull one at a time. If you only loosen one all the way at a time, the head can warp. Yes, in that short of a time, the aluminum head can warp.
Once it's off, you'll want to be gentle with a good gasket-remover tool. You might want some gasket remover spray, but be very careful about the over-spray. It can mess up some parts. The best thing to do would be to get the head and block checked for perfect levelness, and get them decked if they are warped. This is very wise if you've overheated it before. Or if one or two head bolts were loose compared to the rest. Etc.
While you are in there, some other things you can do involve cleaning the heads, cylinders, piston crowns, valves, etc. You can also replace the valves and other head componants at this time. If you are interested, look up Somender Singh. He came up with a way to improve power, mileage, and longevity by cutting grooves in strategic places in the head and piston crowns.
Things like port-jobs and such come into mind. You could potentially have a gasket-match port done. That just means they take a head gasket for that engine and match the int/exh ports to the gasket dimensions. If your head is anything like mine, that means massive increases in flow, especially in the #4 cylinder. I have NO idea how much $$$ that entails, but it'd definitly open our heads up.
I guess the easiest thing is to just get in there, clean the old gasket off and decarbon the heads/piston crowns, throw in a new gasket, and seal her back up. Might be the only thing affordable at this time. But there is some fun stuff you can do.
BTW, you'll have to drain all the oil and coolant before doing this. And flush both afterwards to purge the AF from the lines and the oil from the AF.
Dang I'm sidetracking lol.
I'd start with that head gasket. You'll need to remove the carb and the manifolds. The worst part of this is remembering vacuum lines. Where they go, remembering to reconnect ALL of them... etc. The mannie bolts are a PITA. Some are very hard to get to, and again require the removal of the carb and its heat shield. I tried to do it with the carb on... Just can't get to some of those bolts. The EGR will have to come off... You'll want to see if it's salvagable. If its a solid carbon chunk, the mechanism is likely frozen and doomed. But it sure as hell isn't cheap. I got a low-end quote of $120 from someone. All for a PITA emissions thing that'll just clog up again... Grumble.....
Once all that is off, the timing belt must come off... Now here's the kicker... You have to maintain a good connection with the lower teeth, remember where the upper Cam wheel was and where the belt was on it. Otherwise you'll have to do a cam-timing job. Well, it's good to check it regardless, as the upper cam wheel can and likely will move while its off.
You'll need a breaker bar and a 12mm socket to get the bolts out. The center left one (looking back-front) is a PAIN to get at past the cam. Thus the likely movement of the cam, unless you wait to disconnect it. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you follow the repair manual's instructed loosening/tightening orders, and only loosen a little bit per bolt until they are free-spinning, then you can fully pull one at a time. If you only loosen one all the way at a time, the head can warp. Yes, in that short of a time, the aluminum head can warp.
Once it's off, you'll want to be gentle with a good gasket-remover tool. You might want some gasket remover spray, but be very careful about the over-spray. It can mess up some parts. The best thing to do would be to get the head and block checked for perfect levelness, and get them decked if they are warped. This is very wise if you've overheated it before. Or if one or two head bolts were loose compared to the rest. Etc.
While you are in there, some other things you can do involve cleaning the heads, cylinders, piston crowns, valves, etc. You can also replace the valves and other head componants at this time. If you are interested, look up Somender Singh. He came up with a way to improve power, mileage, and longevity by cutting grooves in strategic places in the head and piston crowns.
Things like port-jobs and such come into mind. You could potentially have a gasket-match port done. That just means they take a head gasket for that engine and match the int/exh ports to the gasket dimensions. If your head is anything like mine, that means massive increases in flow, especially in the #4 cylinder. I have NO idea how much $$$ that entails, but it'd definitly open our heads up.
I guess the easiest thing is to just get in there, clean the old gasket off and decarbon the heads/piston crowns, throw in a new gasket, and seal her back up. Might be the only thing affordable at this time. But there is some fun stuff you can do.
BTW, you'll have to drain all the oil and coolant before doing this. And flush both afterwards to purge the AF from the lines and the oil from the AF.
Dang I'm sidetracking lol.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
Hey tercel 4wdrules...if you're going to change the head gasket you don't have to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds or the carb off the head. Just pull them all off as one unit. That will save you a bunch off time and some $ on gaskets. I am in the process of doing the same thing you are going to do. As Typrus said...clean the piston tops...clean the combustion chambers. I decided to pull the valves and put in new valve stem seals. (After all my Tercel has 338,00 miles) While the valves were out I cleaned the carbon off the underside of them. I also decided to hand lap the valves and seats while the head was off.($7 for valve grinding compound & tool) Just got the valves back in the head tonight. Maybe tomorrow i'll start putting the head back on. I was able to get the middle left head bolt off without pulling the camshaft out but it was real tight. I might pull the cam to reinstall it so it's easier to get proper head bolt torque measurements.
Anyway....good luck in your endeavors.
Anyway....good luck in your endeavors.
-
tercel4wdrules
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1201
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 11:23 pm
- My tercel:: None
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Thanks Typrus & Chris for your tips and replies.
I still have some questions to clear out before I dig in this thing.
Okay. I have this terrible fear that I will screw up the timing while the head is out and I won't be able to start the car. Being that the cheapest timing light I have seen is $60. I'm kind of nervous. What can I do? In the Chilton's manual they recommend you mark the position of the timing belt by using correction fluid. But then when I remove the gear, will I lose the position of the gear in relation to the camshaft?
I'm going to have to remove the cam to replace the camshaft oil seal. Someone told me I can just use a modified screwdriver to pry it out or loosen some of the cam bearing caps and it should fall out.
It looks like I'm going to pull the head as one whole unit with the carb and the manifold attached. The other question is whether I have to raise the car to remove the exhaust bolts off of the manifold?
I'll remove the EGR and clean it up... the previous owner paid $20 to have the "EGR passage" cleaned. I have read previous posts about how much of a PITA it is to clean out if even possible.
I should check the timing belt tensioner because it's making some squealing noise but then gradually ameliorates as the engine warms up. Maybe I'll remove it and check it out.
I'll be extra careful about removing the head bolts. I should be able to handle bolts that have been torqued to 43 lb/ft. How do you use the old-fashioned torque wrenches? Do you have to put the exact force on the wrench by practice or can you turn it until you reach the desired torque measurement?
Gasket remover spray? Where can I get that? I'm putting a new valve cover gasket to avoid future unpleasant leaks and a new distributor o-ring. RTV sealant is ok for the valve cover gasket?
Can I used compressed air (bottle) to blow out carbon and other crap out of the block? Would a wire brush be good to remove the carbon deposits?
Ideally I would put all new valve train components but I can't afford this right now.
Typrus:At my school they're going to have the CAHSEE (California High School Exit Exam) examination. I already passed it last year. If you don't pass you don't graduate. I really know how much standardized testing is a PITA and boring... reading those ridiculous passages one after another...
Wow, I have an awful lot of questions. I won't expect to get a reply for every single one...
I still have some questions to clear out before I dig in this thing.
Okay. I have this terrible fear that I will screw up the timing while the head is out and I won't be able to start the car. Being that the cheapest timing light I have seen is $60. I'm kind of nervous. What can I do? In the Chilton's manual they recommend you mark the position of the timing belt by using correction fluid. But then when I remove the gear, will I lose the position of the gear in relation to the camshaft?
I'm going to have to remove the cam to replace the camshaft oil seal. Someone told me I can just use a modified screwdriver to pry it out or loosen some of the cam bearing caps and it should fall out.
It looks like I'm going to pull the head as one whole unit with the carb and the manifold attached. The other question is whether I have to raise the car to remove the exhaust bolts off of the manifold?
I'll remove the EGR and clean it up... the previous owner paid $20 to have the "EGR passage" cleaned. I have read previous posts about how much of a PITA it is to clean out if even possible.
I should check the timing belt tensioner because it's making some squealing noise but then gradually ameliorates as the engine warms up. Maybe I'll remove it and check it out.
I'll be extra careful about removing the head bolts. I should be able to handle bolts that have been torqued to 43 lb/ft. How do you use the old-fashioned torque wrenches? Do you have to put the exact force on the wrench by practice or can you turn it until you reach the desired torque measurement?
Gasket remover spray? Where can I get that? I'm putting a new valve cover gasket to avoid future unpleasant leaks and a new distributor o-ring. RTV sealant is ok for the valve cover gasket?
Can I used compressed air (bottle) to blow out carbon and other crap out of the block? Would a wire brush be good to remove the carbon deposits?
Ideally I would put all new valve train components but I can't afford this right now.
Typrus:At my school they're going to have the CAHSEE (California High School Exit Exam) examination. I already passed it last year. If you don't pass you don't graduate. I really know how much standardized testing is a PITA and boring... reading those ridiculous passages one after another...
Wow, I have an awful lot of questions. I won't expect to get a reply for every single one...
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
All I can say is that when you clean alum surfaces...espec gasket surfaces...don't remove any metal. Wire brush...hardwood...dull steel blades?
The cam seal can be replaced by prying it out. Just get the new one in straight. Don't gouge any metal.
Cam gear only goes one way on the cam...mark it with a small pointed punch by sighting down a tooth and marking the front of the head? and mark the cam gear tooth also?
The pointer type torque wrenches require you to be looking straight down at the pointer vs label area...DON'T confuse inch/lbs and ft/lbs!
For the head bolts...you might have to grind down the outside of a socket some to get to 1 or 2 of them..turn them only 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time in the right pattern?
If you don't have the head checked for "level" and checked for cracks you are taking a chance that the head gasket won't fix it.
The cam seal can be replaced by prying it out. Just get the new one in straight. Don't gouge any metal.
Cam gear only goes one way on the cam...mark it with a small pointed punch by sighting down a tooth and marking the front of the head? and mark the cam gear tooth also?
The pointer type torque wrenches require you to be looking straight down at the pointer vs label area...DON'T confuse inch/lbs and ft/lbs!
For the head bolts...you might have to grind down the outside of a socket some to get to 1 or 2 of them..turn them only 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time in the right pattern?
If you don't have the head checked for "level" and checked for cracks you are taking a chance that the head gasket won't fix it.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
I don't like pointer torque'ers. I have a click-style. With them, you just keep cranking down until it clicks then you stop. With it, you adjust the desired torque on the handle, then just have to listen. That way you can watch for such things as socket interferences.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
Hey tercel4wdrules.....did you get your head gasket changed?
Sorry I haven't replied to your questions but I ended up going over to the next valley and working at the Nucor steel mill last week during their shut-down. Long week..84 hrs. No time to do anything but work, drive. eat and sleep.
If you still have any questions...let me know and I will see if I can help. If you got it done, I hope all went well.
Sorry I haven't replied to your questions but I ended up going over to the next valley and working at the Nucor steel mill last week during their shut-down. Long week..84 hrs. No time to do anything but work, drive. eat and sleep.
If you still have any questions...let me know and I will see if I can help. If you got it done, I hope all went well.
-
tercel4wdrules
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1201
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 11:23 pm
- My tercel:: None
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Chris: No I have not replaced the gasket yet. I have to wait until the second week of April (Spring Break). Like I mentioned above my biggest fear is messing up the timing. If you could answer some of the questions I wrote above that would be great. How did the head work go? This past week must of been rough for you.
Takza: Like Typrus told me... I really should have the head checked thoroughly, but I lack the time and $$$. At this point I don't know what's going to happen, it might sit for a few more weeks. It looks like I can replace the seal by prying. Maybe leave the camshaft in place and then when head is torqued into place again I can remove the cam gear and replace it???
I used a click-type torque wrench but the crap only had newton-meters and inch-pounds. It was a rental from Pep Boys. I'm going to have to work with a pointer-type torque wrench for now.
Takza: Like Typrus told me... I really should have the head checked thoroughly, but I lack the time and $$$. At this point I don't know what's going to happen, it might sit for a few more weeks. It looks like I can replace the seal by prying. Maybe leave the camshaft in place and then when head is torqued into place again I can remove the cam gear and replace it???
I used a click-type torque wrench but the crap only had newton-meters and inch-pounds. It was a rental from Pep Boys. I'm going to have to work with a pointer-type torque wrench for now.
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"
First off....Typrus, I don't mean to hijack your thread. Sorry, man.
Hey tercel4wdrules.......I got the head back on and it works great.
As far as your fears on messing up the timing ..don't worry. It's a piece of cake. When you start the job, set the crank on 0*. Pull the valve cover off and make sure both valves on #1 cyl are loose. If they are, it's at TDC for #1. If not, rotate the crank one full revolution. Once you're at TDC for #1, pull the cap off the distributor and note the position of the rotor. It should be pointing to #1 spark plug wire terminal position. If so, take a marker and mark the position of the rotor on the coil. This will aid you in reinstalling the distributor at a close enough timing to at least start the engine when you go to refire it.
Now just tear into everything without any worries.
Once you start reassembling everything....set the crank to 0* with the index on the crank pulley...(timing belt pulley). Then rotate the cam pulley to 0*(the index mark on the pulley and the mark on the head just behind the pulley). Install the timing belt it the usual manner. Install the distributor so that when it is fully seated it will line up the mark on the rotor with the mark on the coil that you made before you removed it. As far as timing goes you should be set to go.
A few other points...
Make sure the head gasket is installed in the right orientation..(it can fit on two different ways. ONLY ONE IS CORRECT! )
To replace the camshaft seal...remove the front bearing cap and the camshaft pulley. Now you don't have to pry out the seal and possibly damage the shaft. Reinstall the seal paying attention to the instructions in the FSM on liquid sealer, greasing the seal, etc. One thing I strongly recommend when installing any of the bolts or studs in the aluminum head is to clean the threaded holes and the bolts of the majority of oil. (Q-Tips work great for cleaning the holes). Contrary to what the FSM says about lubricating the threads...DON'T. I learned the hard way several years ago when I followed their instructions and proceded to strip out several holes when installing the cam. (It was a good thing I was proficient at using Heli-Coils. I went thru a bunch that day.)
The exhaust pipe to manifold nuts are easier to reach with a couple off extentios and a ratchet from under the car (with it up on jack stands or ramps. Don't forget about the "manifold stay" mount bolt. Remove it before trying to remove the head.
When you remove the head bolts do it in steps in the recommended order.
The camshaft timing pulley is "keyed" to the shaft so you don't have to worry about loosing the timing relationship.
Gasket remover..Permatex..can't remember the number
Liquid sealer...Permatex 598B Ultra Black RTV (use on camshaft seal(outside diameter), cam #1 bearing cap, valve cover 1/2 plug and valve cover gasket (only by camshaft #1 bearing cap....not the whole valve cover gasket.)
Most auto stores should carry both products.
I hope I haven't confused you too much. If you have any other questions let me know. Do you have a copy of the FSM? You should be able to download it from this web site. If you can't for some reason let me know and I will send you a copy on a CD. Personally, I think very little of Chilton manuals overall.
Hey tercel4wdrules.......I got the head back on and it works great.
As far as your fears on messing up the timing ..don't worry. It's a piece of cake. When you start the job, set the crank on 0*. Pull the valve cover off and make sure both valves on #1 cyl are loose. If they are, it's at TDC for #1. If not, rotate the crank one full revolution. Once you're at TDC for #1, pull the cap off the distributor and note the position of the rotor. It should be pointing to #1 spark plug wire terminal position. If so, take a marker and mark the position of the rotor on the coil. This will aid you in reinstalling the distributor at a close enough timing to at least start the engine when you go to refire it.
Now just tear into everything without any worries.
Once you start reassembling everything....set the crank to 0* with the index on the crank pulley...(timing belt pulley). Then rotate the cam pulley to 0*(the index mark on the pulley and the mark on the head just behind the pulley). Install the timing belt it the usual manner. Install the distributor so that when it is fully seated it will line up the mark on the rotor with the mark on the coil that you made before you removed it. As far as timing goes you should be set to go.
A few other points...
Make sure the head gasket is installed in the right orientation..(it can fit on two different ways. ONLY ONE IS CORRECT! )
To replace the camshaft seal...remove the front bearing cap and the camshaft pulley. Now you don't have to pry out the seal and possibly damage the shaft. Reinstall the seal paying attention to the instructions in the FSM on liquid sealer, greasing the seal, etc. One thing I strongly recommend when installing any of the bolts or studs in the aluminum head is to clean the threaded holes and the bolts of the majority of oil. (Q-Tips work great for cleaning the holes). Contrary to what the FSM says about lubricating the threads...DON'T. I learned the hard way several years ago when I followed their instructions and proceded to strip out several holes when installing the cam. (It was a good thing I was proficient at using Heli-Coils. I went thru a bunch that day.)
The exhaust pipe to manifold nuts are easier to reach with a couple off extentios and a ratchet from under the car (with it up on jack stands or ramps. Don't forget about the "manifold stay" mount bolt. Remove it before trying to remove the head.
When you remove the head bolts do it in steps in the recommended order.
The camshaft timing pulley is "keyed" to the shaft so you don't have to worry about loosing the timing relationship.
Gasket remover..Permatex..can't remember the number
Liquid sealer...Permatex 598B Ultra Black RTV (use on camshaft seal(outside diameter), cam #1 bearing cap, valve cover 1/2 plug and valve cover gasket (only by camshaft #1 bearing cap....not the whole valve cover gasket.)
Most auto stores should carry both products.
I hope I haven't confused you too much. If you have any other questions let me know. Do you have a copy of the FSM? You should be able to download it from this web site. If you can't for some reason let me know and I will send you a copy on a CD. Personally, I think very little of Chilton manuals overall.
Hey Chris...how about posting your head gasket writeup over in the repair section? Maybe add a few more details? Not sure we have one for the head...if we do...you could add to it?
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
-
tercel4wdrules
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1201
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 11:23 pm
- My tercel:: None
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
-
sandshadow
- Newbie
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:10 pm
Hi Tercel4Wdrules,
I went through this same procedure last month. Chris mentions cleaning out the head bolt holes in the block. A Q-tip, tap, and compressed air went a long way towards this for me. I got a lot of gunk out with a tap:
I first covered everything with masking tape including each of the head-bolt holes. Then pulled the tape covering each hole to tap it and blow it out with compressed air:
You want to use a die to clean the threads on the head bolts too.
A 65 cent woden dowel cut into 8 inch lengths helps guide the head onto the gasket without sliding it around:
I replaced my timing belt as long as I was in there, so I had to align the crankshaftr and camshaft. It wasn't hard to do. I did run into timing problems though. I could set the timing to 5 degrees, but had to rotate the distributor as far back as it could go. If this happens, the distributor gear's probably off by a tooth (as mine was). You can verify by installing the distributor with the cap off.
Good luck.
I went through this same procedure last month. Chris mentions cleaning out the head bolt holes in the block. A Q-tip, tap, and compressed air went a long way towards this for me. I got a lot of gunk out with a tap:
I first covered everything with masking tape including each of the head-bolt holes. Then pulled the tape covering each hole to tap it and blow it out with compressed air:
You want to use a die to clean the threads on the head bolts too.
A 65 cent woden dowel cut into 8 inch lengths helps guide the head onto the gasket without sliding it around:
I replaced my timing belt as long as I was in there, so I had to align the crankshaftr and camshaft. It wasn't hard to do. I did run into timing problems though. I could set the timing to 5 degrees, but had to rotate the distributor as far back as it could go. If this happens, the distributor gear's probably off by a tooth (as mine was). You can verify by installing the distributor with the cap off.
Good luck.