Fuel problem? Timing issue? Won't stay running

[Austin]

Having trouble with my 1985 manual wagon. The car sat unused for a bit over 10 years. Started briefly when it was removed from the garage but wasn't driven.
Since bringing it home we've gone through a lot of different parts. Parts replaced include:
Front and rear brake hardware. MR2 break upgrade
Original trans in the car was stuck in gear so it was swapped with another working trans.
Original carburetor was cleaned and rebuilt
New spark plugs and wires and battery
Civic radiator
New coolant temp sensor
Valve cover gasket replaced
New PCV valve
New fuel pump
New air filter
Timing components inspected and are properly aligned
Choke opener and throttle positioner seemed stiff/ bottomed out was replaced with a known working one and was less stiff but still bottomed out once installed
All vacuum hoses have been replaced and checked for routing.
Fuel line in the engine bay all replaced

Have tried with the distributor gear dots lined up as per factory manual as well as tried slight adjustments either direction and always seem to be fully advanced/ retarded on the mounting bolt adjustment to run decently. Still only way it will "run" is having the idle set 3000rpm & soon as it drops below that it bogs down and dies unless given throttle/gas. Usually only runs for a minute or so at most before dying.
Looking for any insight what might be causing this to so quickly, read through alot on here and the Facebook group but nothing seemed to be the fix.

[dlb]

I don't see fuel filter in your list of work done. If you haven't done that it's the first thing I would do. Make sure to get a clear one so you can see if the tank is puking rust and junk. After sitting for 10 years, that's quite possible.

Welcome to the forum!

[SirFoxx]

Having trouble with my 1985 manual wagon. The car sat unused for a bit over 10 years. Started briefly when it was removed from the garage but wasn't driven.
Since bringing it home we've gone through a lot of different parts. Parts replaced include:
Front and rear brake hardware. MR2 break upgrade
Original trans in the car was stuck in gear so it was swapped with another working trans.
Original carburetor was cleaned and rebuilt
New spark plugs and wires and battery
Civic radiator
New coolant temp sensor
Valve cover gasket replaced
New PCV valve
New fuel pump
New air filter
Timing components inspected and are properly aligned
Choke opener and throttle positioner seemed stiff/ bottomed out was replaced with a known working one and was less stiff but still bottomed out once installed
All vacuum hoses have been replaced and checked for routing.
Fuel line in the engine bay all replaced

Have tried with the distributor gear dots lined up as per factory manual as well as tried slight adjustments either direction and always seem to be fully advanced/ retarded on the mounting bolt adjustment to run decently. Still only way it will "run" is having the idle set 3000rpm & soon as it drops below that it bogs down and dies unless given throttle/gas. Usually only runs for a minute or so at most before dying.
Looking for any insight what might be causing this to so quickly, read through alot on here and the Facebook group but nothing seemed to be the fix.

do fuel filter first, however more than likely the idle circuit is clogged and the carb will need a rebuild, assuming someone hasnt trashed the vacuum system. also look for any major vacuum leaks as well.

if you do decide to do a rebuild, if you want I can rebuild it for ~$100, kit included in the price. I have good success so far with the rebuilds.

[Austin]

Fuel filter has been replaced and carb was clean and rebuilt. What do you mean by idle circuit? Vacuum lines have all been replaced.

[SirFoxx]

Fuel filter has been replaced and carb was clean and rebuilt. What do you mean by idle circuit? Vacuum lines have all been replaced.

idle circuit is apart of the carb. its what meters the fuel for idle. who did the clean and rebuild, and how was it cleaned?