after many years, I'm finally back in the T4 game

[LowBuckCanuck]

If you do decide to part it out I've been on the hunt for the fuel sending lines from the gas tank for years now. You're on the island right? If so I'll be in your neck of the woods until the end of the month. Will travel for tercel parts haha.

[dlb]

Chris, I gave this some thought last night and decided that I will bypass the heater core and keep the car driveable for now. We plan on moving in the next couple years and I don't want to hand bomb a transmission, engine, doors, etc. It's kind of a shame because the new t4 needs a few parts that I would like to pull off the old one but buying a few more parts is better than carrying all that stuff around by hand, storing it in the garage in the meantime, etc.

LBC, do you mean the fuel sender unit that is screwed to the top of the gas tank? I might have a spare here anyway. It came with the new car.

[LowBuckCanuck]

Chris, I gave this some thought last night and decided that I will bypass the heater core and keep the car driveable for now. We plan on moving in the next couple years and I don't want to hand bomb a transmission, engine, doors, etc. It's kind of a shame because the new t4 needs a few parts that I would like to pull off the old one but buying a few more parts is better than carrying all that stuff around by hand, storing it in the garage in the meantime, etc.

LBC, do you mean the fuel sender unit that is screwed to the top of the gas tank? I might have a spare here anyway. It came with the new car.

For clarification, I'm seeking the part pictured below. I'm currently running a modified one for a 2wd tercel (which can still be found new) but it interferes with the fuel gauge.

Screen Shot 2023-03-05 at 5.07.39 PM.png

[Nordical25]

It is great dlb that you have found a new Tercel and bad news that you had rusty fuel tank and leaky heater core. For these symptoms: been there done that during last 12 months. I vote similarly with NWMO to keep your car in driveable condition. It will maintain its value better and you have working brakes by keeping them moving constantly. You can still get an inspiration one day to fix them since you put so much effort into your car already.

You can still buy a fuel tank and a heater core from e.g. Rockauto so the fix is totally doable. I would buy them because your new car can have also worn ones so good spare heater core and tank are good to have.

And LowBuckCanuck, you can manufacture that part by yourself with correct tools. I had similar part manufactured in local metal company. You start with 3mm thick steel plate. Then you drill correct size screw and connector holes and weld some connectors to it. You connect them with fuel lines, which you bend correctly like original part.

[Mattel]

Glad you picked up that car in Tofino David. Is that far away? I realise that Vancouver island is huge with so many ferries etc. Did you get all the parts that came with it?

[dlb]

Glad you picked up that car in Tofino David. Is that far away? I realise that Vancouver island is huge with so many ferries etc. Did you get all the parts that came with it?

It was a 4 hr drive each way so it was a big favour to ask my wife to drive me there, but she's a doll and helped me out. Yup I grabbed all the parts too. The guy selling the car was very nice but isn't experienced with cars so there was zero oil on the dipstick and no coolant in the overflow reservoir! The brakes were terrible too, and when I got home and tore into it I learned that only the rear left brake was working! Terrifying. The engine also burned through 1.5 liters of oil on the drive home, wowee. Meanwhile, some big jobs have been done on the car (brand new manual steering rack, new fuel and brake lines all round, replaced front fenders) while those basic things were neglected, so it's pretty odd in some ways. Working through the brakes and transmission leaks right now, found some other things that also need attention too but once I'm done all that I will probably swap the engine from the rust bucket into this one. I didn't want to do an engine swap but it makes the most sense at this point. I just re-checked the compression on the engine in the rust bucket (properly, this time -- after the valves were adjusted, and with the engine warmed up) and it's actually in pretty good shape. 165-170 psi across all cylinders. So that's great news.

Thanks again for the heads up on this car Matt! That was excellent timing.

[Mattel]

What an epic adventure David, glad that it and you made it back OK. The seller seemed a bit gruff on facebook. He said things like 'come and buy this or it goes to the tip in two weeks' or something. Glad you got something that looks a little less rusty than what you have. But still a hell of a gamble for a long drive. Great news about the compression on the rust bucket! more photos please!