Driving along today, it just died after a few minutes of driving with no warning--going fine, cut out, came back on for a split second, cut out again and I rolled to a stop. Today was the first day with snow, salt, etc. Didn't go through any big puddles, wasn't driving more than 35 mph. It's an 87 carbed with 113k miles.
Sat for a minute, tried it a few times--everything seemed fine, it was cranking, but it wouldn't catch. Waited, tried again, no go. Opened the hood, checked the wires from coil to dist., and from dist. to plugs--all seemed fine. Tried again, no go. Battery was very strong.
Was looking at the engine, wondering, heard an audible "click" and thought "bet it works now." Got in, first crank didn't do it (probably flooded by now), waited ten seconds, it fired right up.
Didn't seem to be starved, so I don't think it was a fuel issue.
Rotor? Coil? Igniter?
It just . . . dies. . . .
Sounds like a relay kicked in...check all connxs...fuses...relays...etc.
Could even be the ign switch.
If you have a lot of keys and hit a bump...the key will fall out or loosen from the ignition.
Could even be the ign switch.
If you have a lot of keys and hit a bump...the key will fall out or loosen from the ignition.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Hmmm, didn't think about the relays--the main fuse/relay box is in the engine compartment, right? I was looking right at the dist. when I heard the click in that region. Trying to think what relay would cause that. . . .
Don't think it was ignition switch--I could get it to crank fine, just couldn't get it to fire up.
It ran fine today, except it was REALLY rough on startup, like working on only two or three cylinders. I'll do a tuneup, get new plug wires, and put some dielectric grease on all the connectors and see if that helps.
Don't think it was ignition switch--I could get it to crank fine, just couldn't get it to fire up.
It ran fine today, except it was REALLY rough on startup, like working on only two or three cylinders. I'll do a tuneup, get new plug wires, and put some dielectric grease on all the connectors and see if that helps.
The distributor cap and rotor are periodic replacement items, as far as I'm concerned. In time, the metal end of the rotor 'finger' will become eroded and the spark plug lead 'contacts' on the inside of the distr cap will become 'caked' and eroded as well. I'm sure this reduces the effectiveness of the spark's ability to jump the gap between the two. Eventually the 'wear' is bad enough to warrant changing both the cap and rotor, for me, at least. Certainly want to inspect and clean the rotor and the inside of the cap really well, at the very least. Be sure to clean off any 'carbon-looking' 'dust' on the inside of the distr cap - if its left long enough you can get carbon tracking and weird things happening to the spark inside the distr cap. I once saw a carbon track that developed into an opening through the cap and a very audible snapping/crackling of the spark as it was jumping to the wrong place and causing a no-start - this was on an old Ford or Chevy truck as I recall.
Good electrical tuneup...your best bet when you see rough running?
* plugs.......... NGK V-Power ?
* plug wires..........spiral wire core ? .... NAPA economy ?
* dist cap.......brass contacts ? ...."silver" contacts
* dist rotor....brass ? ..."silver" ?
* set ignition timing.....OEM or road time it ?
* plugs.......... NGK V-Power ?
* plug wires..........spiral wire core ? .... NAPA economy ?
* dist cap.......brass contacts ? ...."silver" contacts
* dist rotor....brass ? ..."silver" ?
* set ignition timing.....OEM or road time it ?
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...
Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...