Hi all, I had an incident when replacing the head gasket where I got a caught an edge on my chisel and ended up putting in some decent gouges right next to the first cylinder on the block. Since I've never done this before and the idea of pulling the block is pretty intimidating, I'm wondering if I can just step down to a 150 grit sand paper and essentially resurface it myself. I have large pieces of granite that will keep a nice flat surface.
I've already done a bit, but I would love to have those fittings in the fore and aft manifold-side head bolt holes out of the way to make sure I can keep everything at the same level instead of working around them. I'm assuming a shop would have to remove them before resurfacing, which means they should be removable. Are they?
And if the resounding answer is I should pull the block, can I get it out with myself and a friend? I have no engine hoist and don't know any mechanics that would have one.
Here is a link to the carnage. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zl-Yqj ... sp=sharing
*I need to clear out my flickr before I can embed this inline.
De-gouging/resurfacing the block
- Petros
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
no need to pull the block, those locating lugs can be removed. there is a speical puller tool perhaps you can rent that makes it easy to slip out. I have found that usualy if you carfully wrap it and use some large channel locks or vise grips on them you can turn them and work them out. use some penetrating oil and heat on the block and it will make them come out easy.
I have debated on if they are really necessary to be there, all they do is keep the gasket located as the engine is assembled in a factory assembly line. when I worked in a professional race shop preparing 1000 hp racing engines we always removed them, they just got in the way of making the surface flat, and left them off. but I always replace mine after I get them out and done with the surface.
start with the coarse grit paper, wet sand with water or perhaps solvent, and work your way down to finer paper. you can finish with about 400 grit.
good luck
I have debated on if they are really necessary to be there, all they do is keep the gasket located as the engine is assembled in a factory assembly line. when I worked in a professional race shop preparing 1000 hp racing engines we always removed them, they just got in the way of making the surface flat, and left them off. but I always replace mine after I get them out and done with the surface.
start with the coarse grit paper, wet sand with water or perhaps solvent, and work your way down to finer paper. you can finish with about 400 grit.
good luck
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
Use WD-40 as your sanding lubricant and as a flush for the sand paper, to keep it clean.
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- cromagmom
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
Thanks, folks. I'm re-inspired to tackle this project now! Now my only problem is finding 400 wet-dry sand paper in town. Home Depot is pretty much the only game in town and their sand paper selection is strangely limited. Then again, I can never really find exactly what I need there.
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
how deep is deep. might need to be concerned about taking off too much. saw a youtube vid where a guy repaired a lawnmower head that he purposely damaged with JB weld and the mower worked. not sure if i would try it. maybe sometime as an experiment.
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- cromagmom
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
I can feel it with my finger nail. Don't have a fine enough gauge to get a number on that. I've done a bit of sanding and managed to get the sides of the gouge out without too much effort.
Some other auto forums were mentioning filling it in with copper paint, but my impression is that is for uncoated gaskets back in the day. If this weren't my daily driver, I'd probably be willing to do the jb weld experiment.
Some other auto forums were mentioning filling it in with copper paint, but my impression is that is for uncoated gaskets back in the day. If this weren't my daily driver, I'd probably be willing to do the jb weld experiment.
- Petros
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
flat sand it and dont worry about it, you can mill off .007-.01" from the upper deck to true up a warped block.
you likely will not sand nearly that much off, the scratch is likely about .003" or less deep.
300 grit wet and dry would also work fine, perhaps even 200. usually when you pull apart a engine never been opened, you can see fairly large milling lines on the deck surface. getting flat with a block of polished granite and wet and dry paper is far better than it usually sees.
you likely will not sand nearly that much off, the scratch is likely about .003" or less deep.
300 grit wet and dry would also work fine, perhaps even 200. usually when you pull apart a engine never been opened, you can see fairly large milling lines on the deck surface. getting flat with a block of polished granite and wet and dry paper is far better than it usually sees.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
- slimdude85
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Re: De-gouging/resurfacing the block
You should also be able to pick up some wet or dry sandpaper from an auto parts store. We have O’Reilly around here and they will sell it by the sheet. They keep it in back, so you have to tell them what you need (grit and quantity). It saves a lot of hassle if you find someone who doesn’t look like they just finished getting potty trained.
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Proverbs 3:25-26
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