Engine Replacement Day 1!!

[timsamp]

Well I purchased a brand new never used long block assembly, and I am having it shipped here to Alaska, just need to put on the usual bolt ons. Started taking her all apart today, good god what a mess!! Only thing I am worried about is the carb, I have a rebuild kit, but something was not looking good, looks like its cracked, see pick below. Im trying to identify the part and see if im going to need a new one or if there is a way to fix it. Looking forward to some good times with "Tammy Tercel" once we are up and running again! ~Tim~

IMG_1021.JPG

IMG_1022.JPG

IMG_1023.JPG

IMG_1024.JPG

[Petros]

that is just a heating element that goes under the carb, it helps prevent carb icing during warm up. After the engine is warm no ice can form in the throttle, so it is only function is to keep the area below the throttle above freezing. You should be able to run without it, and just realize that after a cold start you may get some stumbling. Just keep pumping the throttle until the exhuast manifold gets warmed up and heats the intake manifold up.

I think you can run fine without it. I might have a spare one around my garage somewhere in a box of parts if you want another one. Install the old one and drive it until you can get a replacement.

[timsamp]

Petros, do you think it will make a difference since its already in the -30's and only getting colder?!!!

[Petros]

I have no idea how effective this device is, nor if any still work when they are this old. The factory felt it necessary to include this device, but no car prior to about 1978 or so ever used them (it may even be an emissions control issue). It only would matter in the warm-up period when the intake system is still cold after first start up. If the air is really moist and at or below freezing, you will get ice forming in the area under the carb, which will make is stumble and occasionally stall. Once warmed up it will likely make no difference at all.

If it were me, I would not worry about it. If in really cold weather it is troublesome to keep it running after first start, than I would consider getting another one. it is not difficult to install later. Get your car running and see how it goes.

[dlb]

weber carbs have issues when cold due to the lack of such devices. i always found that after 5 minutes of cold weather driving, my weber would stutter and die at idle for the next 3-5 minutes of driving. after that it was fine. however, a friend recently suggested a good way to bypass that without letting the car idle for 10 minutes before leaving the house: start the car, let it idle for just a few minutes, and then shut it off while you finish getting ready, giving it 5-10 minutes to sit. the engine warms quite quickly and takes a long time to dissipate heat, so in 5-10 minutes it should warm the carb up to a good normal running temp.

i never tested this before i got rid of my T4 with a weber but it sounds to me like a good idea. i think it was simon84 who suggested it but i can't remember.

[ARCHINSTL]

weber carbs have issues when cold due to the lack of such devices. i always found that after 5 minutes of cold weather driving, my weber would stutter and die at idle for the next 3-5 minutes of driving. after that it was fine.

Which is why I left the device (in the phenolic plate) in situ when I added the Weber; no probs. Of course, that brought up hood clearance issues which took a bit to resolve.

i never tested this before i got rid of my T4 with a weber but it sounds to me like a good idea. i think it was simon84 who suggested it but i can't remember.

I used this solution on one of my Morris Minors years ago.
Tom M.

[splatterdog]

The only cold trouble I've had with the weber is when it gets pretty cold it might take 2 starts, really cold and it's 3-4. Maybe more if it's really,really cold(-25f or worse). After that it's all good.

DLB, you may need to add a little tension to the choke thermostat. It's really a balancing act to get it perfect. I usually fine tune my choke for winter/summer. Make sure it doesn't fully relax the high idle cam when you first hit the gas(after start) and the choke pull off does it's job. Make some markings on the choke and its housing helps make it a quick adjustment.

[dlb]

i like the idea of summer/winter markings on the choke housing. i'm personally done with webers (and anything else non-stock) but will keep it in mind. i did play with the choke a number of times but could never get it quite right. could it have to do with living closer to the ocean, and higher humidity causing icing? i have no idea but i'm taking a wild guess there. totally possible it was just my lack of patience in finding the choke's sweet spot.

i did have the phenolic spacer in place but still had the cold running issues.

[timsamp]

All,
When taking out the engine, is it necessary to take the trans with it, or am I able to just remove the engine block?

[Petros]

Yes, you can remove just the engine. I have done it both ways and find it easier to just remove the engine. there are some on the list that claims pulling both saves time, but that has not been my experience. You have to separate the two anyway, might as well remove the bolts while it is in the car and leave the trans behind.

Unless you have to remove the trans for another reason, I would leave it in place.

[MR2Di4]

If you even remotely think you need a new clutch now would be a good time to replace it. Having just done a clutch job I can attest to the enormous amount of work it took to get to the flywheel to change it out. Even if you have to pull the input shaft to reinstall the engine it's still easier than having to take the whole transaxle out.

MR2Di4