How to Remove & Replace Steering Rack Ends. 1986 SR5 Tercel

[tERRI TERCEL]

For NSW AUSTRALIAN annual rego renewal 'tERRI' (1986 SR5 TERCEL) has been knocked back re steering rack ends.
'Reason for failure; Steering Components under bonnet & vehicle - rule 103.02. (f) excessive free play due to wear LH RH Rack Ends'

I've ordered aftermarket Rack Ends, & am near praying they are the correct parts.

Does anyone have any Previous Exprience / doco's / TIPS to enable a sucessful R&R.

I downloaded the service manual (thanks), there isn't much complete info re R&R of just the rack ends as opposed to a complete Rack steering unit replacement.
Please ANY advise is urgently needed.

This surgery is occuring Monday 26th Nov.

[keith]

I've done it and its not very difficult. It has been a while so I will try to remember. Once you remove the boots, it is almost self evident. There is a washer called a "claw" because of the shape of the inner circle. It grips a spline on the rack so it can't turn. It is bent over the nut to keep it from backing off in use. Use a small hammer and chisel (or flat head screwdriver) to straighten the claw. Now its just two nuts that are jammed together.

I don't know if you have a tool store in Australia like we have here called Harbor Freight. They sell some really cheap (and cheaply made) tools. The advantage here is that they have some very cheap wrenches that are about half the thickness of a normal wrench and though normally useless at most tasks, this is one task that these are useful for. One of the nuts really needs a wrench that is about half the normal thickness of a quality wrench.

Heres a link to a post that should help.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2& ... ter#p24331

[tERRI TERCEL]

Thanks Keith, GREAT info, I've just looked at the link.

Heres hoping we don't break the claw type washer, I might see if its available.

jEN

[keith]

One should come with the new joint.

[Petros]

It is not that difficult if you have the right tools. I recommend soaking all the threaded parts, nuts, bolts, fasternrs, sleeves, etc. in ATF or penetrating oil over night. You will likely have to cut the old boot off and replace them with new ones (the aftermarket ones seem to work fine and are much cheaper than factory boots).

I would get the whole tie-rod off an an assembly and carefully measure the length so when you set up the new one you can set them at the same length. Also either measure or mark where the inner rod end locking bolt is located on the threaded rack end, and put the new one back in the same place. If you get everything back in the same place you should not have to have the front wheel alignment done. that is presuming the alignment was correct before your parts wore out and got sloppy. If you original alignment was good, taking care to put the new parts back in exactly the same place (with the same length adjustments), than is will save you the cost of having the alignment done.