Look here for help first!There is a writeup on the struts....but it isn't here in the repair section...so I'm starting a writeup here...where it can be found...maybe....
I tried to do one side today but found that the inserts that were sent have no way of fitting. My guess would be that the '83 has the non-rebuildable struts. The cartridges were way too large in diameter to fit into the strut tube.
After removing the piece on the top of the tube...I found that the strut had lost some oil...and so I added some Mobil 1 synth ATF until it would take no more...and then put it back together and back into the car. This helps with the bounce test just a little...but still not a lot of shock action...though the shock takes some effort to move in both directions.....this is not the same oil that is used for cooling around the strut cartidges.
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**** Seems that I have one of the few T4WDs with non-rebuildable struts....
"Here are the prices you requested.
Complete front Toyota struts $132.14 each.
All parts are new Genuine Toyota Parts and carry a one year warranty
that will be honored at any Toyota dealership in the United States.
Butler Toyota
Indianapolis, Indiana"
....so....I'm beginning to like my old struts a lot better than before....since they pass the "not more than 2 bounces" bounce test....I might just add some heavier oil and use them as is.
IF you have struts where the strut tube measures about 1 3/4" in OD...you have the non-rebuildable struts. The rebuildable types have a larger diameter tube.
You MIGHT find these on the '83-'84 models?????
* 3ACPower says that the later rebuildable type strut should replace this earlier version...you'd need the complete strut assy plus the cartridge...makes sense in that Toyota would not likely change anything but the strut itself. *
* THE PARTS GUY at a Toyota dealership stated that the cartridge-type rebuildable struts were put on the wagon starting with the May 1986 production date as found on the door jamb. So if you have put cartridges in a pre '87 (?) model wagon...it has had the strut assys replaced previously with the later type? *
...THE PARTS GUY.......
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Found that it isn't really that big of a job...at least as far as I got with it.
Before removing the 2 bolts that hold the strut...I carefully used a cold chisel to mark the exact postion of the LINE on the end of the cam...on the strut bracket area right next to this line...so that when putting it back together...the same exact camber setting can be had.
The "camber adjusting cam" is a sloppy fit...meaning that you won't likely get the camber back to where it was by using this mark. Tapping the end of it DOWN increases the negative camber (bottom of wheel is OUT).
pic showing the spring partially compressed with a $10 Harbor Freight spring thing...notice the bolt and nuts put thru the bracket at the bottom...this allows you to clamp the strut in a vise without deforming this bracket.....
top of the strut when out of the car....yes it's UGLY...I beleive in using lots of oil on stuff...espec when it's rusty....
where the strut fits in the tower....
