Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Here's some good repair guides for your Tercel :) Look here for help first!
Post Reply
xirdneh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 2023
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:38 am
My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by xirdneh » Wed Feb 08, 2012 4:48 pm

Tercel Carburetor Re-build
there is a youtube video on this subject 09/2015
Getting it out.
Disconnect vacuum hoses attached to carb. Mark hose and Carb with different paint colors or tag or use tape you can write on. Do not rely on memory as you will most certainly forget.
Disconnect fuel line at pump. Disconnect throttle cable (loosen two 12mm nuts). Disconnect fuel vapor hose at front of carb.
Unplug wire, large green connector (goes to both fuel solenoids and choke).
Remove (4) 12mm nuts at base of carb (connection to manifold). I use 3/8 drive ratchet with thin diameter 6” extension. When re-installing put a dab of non-hardening gasket compound on nut before putting nut in socket. That thares the way it won’t fall out.
Pull Carb off manifold and when it’s high enough pull PCV valve hose off (drivers side)

Taking it apart.
Carb kits come with drawing of exploded carb and list of numbered parts.
I brush off outside of carb with solvent to get dirt and grease off.
Note how Fuel Solenoids are installed. One has two wires the other has one wire. On most Tercels the two wire Solenoid is on the firewall side of Carb and the single wire on the driver’s side. They are reversed on some models and the exploded view will not help you because Carb kits can show them installed either way. The FSM will not help you either. If you do get them reversed the car may not idle down and/or idle erratically.
Disconnect accelerator pump lever by removing clip. It’s spring loaded so be careful that parts do not fly.
Disconnect various clips (top front, below choke) and pop those levers free.

Carb Top
Remove screws holding top of Carb in place.
Carefully pull top off. Only one part can possibly get away from you. Watch the aluminum piston (Pump Discharge Weight) as it has a light spring under it and you do not want to be trying to find it if it gets away.
After you pull top off Note the rubber washer on top of Primary Venturi.
Note: measure the length of all springs and mark the exploded view accordingly. Save the exploded view for future Carb re-builds.
Take Carb top apart. When you remove the needle seat there should be a small filter screen on the end. Remove the screen (carefully as it is delicate) and re-install on new needle seat. If it gets ruined just toss it and install needle seat without it. It’s only a secondary filter.
I do not dip the Carb top. Just remove old gasket and spray clean with carb cleaner. Then re-assemble. Use instructions on Carb kit sheet to set float height (without gasket in place).

Carb Body
Take Carb body totally apart and note length of various springs and where they go by marking the exploded view sheet. You will discover 4 ball bearings. The big one goes under the alum piston (Pump Discharge Weight) that was mentioned earlier. One goes under the small brass plug screw in the float bowl area. One is under brass a screw on top front right and it has a spring. One is under the “G” clip at the bottom of the accelerator pump cylinder. Use long nosed needle nose pliers to remove “G” clip. Twist in direction that relieves pressure so you do not break it or mess it up. They are hard to come by.
Getting the “G” clip re-installed can be a bear. If using needle nose pliers it has to be twisted as it is being inserted. I ground down a pair of needle nose pliers and that worked most of the time but it was difficult and I broke a few clips. So I made a special installing tool. Start with a 2 inch long piece of 1/2” diameter steel or alum. Drill a 15/64” hole thru the center (lengthways). Modify one end as follows. On one end run in a 21/64” Dia drill to a depth of .156” (5/32). Then run a 3/8 drill into the same end just enough to take the edge off. To use as install tool, on modified end insert “G” clip into 15/64” hole(use twist motion). Drop small bearing into the hole of the protrusion at bottom of accelerator cylinder. Set the special tool into accelerator pump cylinder over the protrusion at bottom. Insert flat end of 15/16” drill into the unmodified end of special tool. It will slide down to the “G” clip. Pushing the drill bit will push the “G” clip into place. For picture and drawing go to "TOOL TALK!" thread and search “Carb “G” clip installer”
I dip all of the body parts in a gallon can of Carb cleaner, let it sit for an hour or two and wash off parts with water hose. Shake water out of Carb body and blow dry with compressed air or canned air. I set mine on wood stove for a while. It’s very important to get all the water out.
Clean out Power Valve Assy. Remove screw at bottom. Use thin wire to clean out tiny hole in screw.
There is a tiny hole thru the short brass tube (nozzle) at top of primary; it is where the Pump Discharge Weight hole is. Clean that out with thin wire.
The Primary and Secondary Venturi’s have tiny holes that should be cleaned with small diameter wire. Blast with Carb cleaner spray and follow with air. Protect your eyes.
When re-installing the top of Carb there is one tricky part. There is a small black washer or disc that sets on top of the alum piston (Pump Discharge Weight). Keeping the spring loaded alum piston down while installing the top of Carb can be a problem. I use a long feeler gage (abt .015 thick) to hold it all down while I install the top of the Carb. When Carb top is in place pull the feeler gage out.
Don’t forget to install the Seal on top of the Primary Venturi. It’s about 1/8 inside diameter and can be a short black piece of tubing about 1/8” long or a thick “O” ring. There is a protrusion on top of the Venturi with a small hole in it. Slide seal over that.

Other stuff to remember
There are some thin washers on the linkages. One should be installed on throttle shaft on front side of Carb base (Throttle Body Assy) before Carb Body is attached.
One of the big screws that bolt the Carb Body to the Carb Base has a hole thru it. That screw goes on the float side of the Carb.
There are two brass screws at the bottom of the float bowl with holes in them. They are the Primary and Secondary Main Jets. The Primary will have a number between 101 and 106 on the face. The Secondary will be between 159 and 162. The one with the smaller hole is the Primary and it installs on the passenger side of Carb.
Getting the Fuel Solenoids off the Carb can be a pain because of the wires attached to them. I almost always cut the wires a few inches above the green plug and crimp wire clips (male and female) to the ends for easy install and removal.
Last edited by xirdneh on Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.

Highlander
Top Notch Member
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:22 am
Location: Nederland, CO

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by Highlander » Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:38 am

I use 3/8 drive ratchet with thin diameter 6” extension. When re-installing put a dab of non-hardening gasket compound on nut before putting nut in socket. That thares the way it won’t fall out.
I have an easier way to start the nuts-- After having to fish those nuts out a few times with my reacher/grabber (you now those deals with 3 or 4 wire fingers that come out when you push on the spring loaded knob at the back), I realized that I can use that to install the nuts. I just put the nuts into the fingers out where I have control of everything, so that the threads are axially aligned with the reacher/grabber, then I feed the nut down there, spin the reacher with my fingers until its snug and pull the reacher straight off. repeat with the other hard to reach nut, then use the flex socket on a 6" extension to tighten all 4 nuts down.
This saves me a lot of swearing, and I can remove and replace a carb in about 7 minutes if I have a replacement in my hands.
'83 SR5-299K, -tRusty!
'85 SR5-265K--GOLD
'85 SR5-285K-- GOLD-New engine!
'85 SR5-238K -- Teal-Killed by a DD
'58 and '62 Austin-Healey Sprites

User avatar
LittleRed4wd
Top Notch Member
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:36 am
Location: Boulder, CO

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by LittleRed4wd » Thu Feb 16, 2012 5:58 pm

Even easier way to install mounting nuts!

I rip a piece of paper so it's a little taller than the nut, then wrap it two- three times around the nut, and press it into the socket using the cross member or any flat surface. Then the nut is stuck in the socket so just pop on an extension, line it up with the studs, and tighten it down. The paper falls out and is easy to grab once you pull the socket from the nut! Sometimes if too many layers of paper are used the extension pops out leaving the socket on the nut-- but it's super easy to get it out using needle nose pliers.
Found out this trick while swapping carbs in the grocery store parking lot...
86 Silver SR5 "Silver Bullet"- 3in lift, 205/75/14s, torque cam, big brakes- Sold
86 Red SR5 "Battle Wagon"- 2.5in lift, 205/75/14s, rebuilt 3ac, chalkboard hood- Totaled
86 White DX "The Gateway Drug"- All stock-Totaled

User avatar
marlinh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 1530
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am
My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue mint 4WD wagon and 'Rocky' 86 4WD Wagon
Location: Kootenays

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by marlinh » Sat Jan 26, 2013 11:07 am

I have undertaken a carb rebuild and have a problem trying to remove the ball under the G clip. It appears to be jammed in the hole. Is that possible? Did someone put the wrong size ball in it's location? How do I remove that without losing it forever and does anyone know the size of the one that is supposed to go in there? Turning the carb upside down and tapping on it doesn't free it either. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

User avatar
marlinh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 1530
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am
My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue mint 4WD wagon and 'Rocky' 86 4WD Wagon
Location: Kootenays

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by marlinh » Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:20 pm

Upon further examination, it appears that the ball at the bottom of the accelerator pump is missing completely. In poor light it was hard to tell that I was looking at the contour where the ball should sit. It should have been there so I thought it was stuck. The washer at the top of the pump discharge weight is missing. Is it just an o ring from the kit? Is the ball at the bottom of the discharge weight supposed to be stuck in the spring? Or is the wrong one in that hole? Also the seal on the primary venturi was missing.

xirdneh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 2023
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:38 am
My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by xirdneh » Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:22 pm

no it is not supposed to be stuck in the spring
sounds like someone put the small ball in there
it is supposed to be the large ball

the washer on top is usually a flat o ring like thing that is a bit harder than an ordinary o ring
it is less than a 1/16 thick (i believe as i am going from memory)

if the accelerator ball was missing the car probably ran poorly
i have accidenly left it out before
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.

User avatar
marlinh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 1530
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am
My tercel:: 'Everett' Blue mint 4WD wagon and 'Rocky' 86 4WD Wagon
Location: Kootenays

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by marlinh » Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:19 am

Thanks Xirdeh, Yes it ran like crap, that's why I chose to rebuild it. One other question was the clearance check between the needle valve plunger and the float lip. Very difficult to see and measure. Does the tab get bent that touches the base where the needle valve sits? The diagram in the FSM is hard to see. Thanks again for all your help.

User avatar
Petros
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 11336
Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:31 pm
My tercel:: '84 Tercel4wd w/extensive mods
Location: Arlington WA USA

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by Petros » Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:53 pm

the float adjustment is easy, if you study how the lever on the float presses against the needle valve it will be obvious what you bend. It is a simple little lever that you adjust by bending, check it before you install it. should be good, but you can verify after the top is installed by looking into the view window once there is fuel in it.

When the cover is off I also check the quality of the needle valve seal by blowing with my mouth into the fuel inlet and gently lift the float, it should stop the airflow (does not take much breath pressure, we are only talking about 2 psi fuel pump). sometimes if the needle valve does not seal I have found I can remove it and flush out the seat with carb cleaner, and carefully wipe off the rubber seal on the end of the needle valve, and it will work again. I guess it is often that grit gets stuck in the valve. And sometimes the rubber tip is all brittle, cracked and worn, it has to be replaced than.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

User avatar
dlb
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 6600
Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:03 pm
My tercel:: none currently, 7 previous
Location: shawnigan lake, bc, canada

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by dlb » Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:33 pm

xirdneh wrote:The Primary will have a number between 101 and 106 on the face. The Secondary will be between 159 and 162.
i am in the middle of rebuilding a carb and the primary jet in it is numbered 099. wheeee, super lean. the secondary is 159 though.

xirdneh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 2023
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:38 am
My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by xirdneh » Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:29 pm

i have never seen 099
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.

User avatar
dlb
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 6600
Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:03 pm
My tercel:: none currently, 7 previous
Location: shawnigan lake, bc, canada

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by dlb » Sun Nov 24, 2013 2:36 pm

xirdneh wrote:Don’t forget to install the Seal on top of the Primary Venturi. It’s about 1/8 inside diameter and can be a short black piece of tubing about 1/8” long or a thick “O” ring. There is a protrusion on top of the Venturi with a small hole in it. Slide seal over that.
do you have any pics of this? i'm confused about it. my primary ventury has a protrustion on top but there is no small hole in it, and there was no seal or o-ring there when i took it apart. i just checked another carb i have, and same thing: no hole in the top of the ventury, and no seal. here are some pics.

protrusion, but no hole.

Image

the corresponding area of the carb top. no holes here either, just a slight divet that correlates to the primary ventury's protrusion.

Image

here are two seals that fit the protrusions of the venturies and are about 1/8" tall. they seem to match your description, xirdneh. do they look right to you? funny there would be two when only the primary is supposed to have the seal.

Image

xirdneh
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 2023
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:38 am
My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by xirdneh » Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:17 am

if there is no hole in protrusion there is no need for seal
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.

larry mcgrath
Highest Ranking Member
Posts: 591
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:23 pm
My tercel:: 83 tercel v20 B/T (The ROCKET)98 toyota t100
Location: Wilds of Montana

Re: Some basic carb cleaning and rebuild info

Post by larry mcgrath » Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:20 am

When you delve into the world of rebuilding carbs you need to INVEST in some Bendix Speedy Clean, cleaning carbs with spray carb cleaner is a real poor method to clean carb parts. speedy clean is an acid that does clean all the small orfices ---air passages--- this product is rather pricey, but WORKS, will remove paint, carbon from anything -------Will REMOVE SKIN FROM YOUR BODY ALSO---- if you rebuild carbs this product is manditory . Larry

Post Reply