Engine Damper / Absorber Replacement Alternative

[ARCHINSTL]

This is an alternate approach to the engine damper substitute, albeit inspired by member sdoan's remedy of springs (see: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... lit=damper). The OE dampers are no longer available in North America, Australia, or New Zealand - I've looked and written.

I wanted something that would not risk rust, would not require maintenance, and was already at hand, save for a couple of items purchased from a hardware store.
I used a 5/16" threaded rod, several similar nuts and washers, a plumbing tube of chrome-plated copper (to protect the bushings from the threads of the rod), 2 used cupped washers from ? brand of shock, some used shock absorber bushings, and 4 Dodge/Mitsu p'up rear leaf spring shackle bolt bushings *. Had the latter not been on hand, more used shock bushings would have been scrounged from a garage. These p'up bushings are somewhat firmer than shock bushings and have a "cap" at one end which proved convenient.
A split fuel rubber fuel line had to be used on the inside of the truck bushings, as their hole was too large for the rod/tube combination alone; if shock bushings are used throughout, the rubber line can be eliminated - again, I wanted to use what was on hand (and new).

The bushings in the middle were inserted until they were pretty snug without moving the engine (the front and rear mounts have only 11K on them, so I'm reasonably certain the engine and trans are sitting squarely).
The copper tube runs from inside the top shock bushing (just above the steel top mount) to just above the bottom shock cup washer; this should keep the entire stack nicely aligned, as it is critical that the rod stay centered.
Unlike sdoan, I did not reuse the small bushings/washers from the OE damper.

The stack is, from the top: Nuts & washers - shock washer - shock bushing - engine steel mount - 3 shock bushings - 3 shackle bushings - shock bushing - steel X-member mount - shock bushing - shackle bushing - shock washer - washers & nut.

I apologize for not presenting pictures of the device prior to installation - the plan was to fit it and then remove it for pix, but - it proved a PITA to install, as the "intermediate stack" of 4 shock bushings and 3 shackle bushings was more than kinda hard to keep in alignment as the bushings were inserted first, then the threaded rod, then the fuel line hose and finally the bend-prone copper tube.
This would have been dramatically easier using regular shock bushings. Another case of "Yes, there is an easier path to take."

The rod is double-nutted on top, as it could not be held tightly enough to use a nyloc nut (short of mushing the threads with a Vise-Grip); by going this route and holding the top nuts with a wrench, it was easier to use a nyloc on the bottom. The shock bushings had a circular central locating ridge which fit nicely into the holes in the mounts. Because rubber was used throughout, only cup washers had to be used on the ends and none against the steel mounts.
The bottom was tightened only enough to barely compress the bushings - did not want to pull the engine.
The rod and nuts will be spritzed with paint to ward off rust.

Does it work? A definite and emphatic "YES!"
Goldie's clutch is apparently OE, with 191K. I wouldn't say I had to rev to 3K and slip it to get away from a stop without shaking my fillings out, but it was tired. Now, however - while the clutch has not exactly been dumped to test it, the starts are very noticeably smoother - almost like the clutch had 91K instead of 191K. Starting from dead stops on hills is much more mellow. Another benefit is that it seems somewhat quieter at highway speeds (most of that, though, is undoubtedly due to new rear axle bearings and the reman propeller shaft with new U-joints).

So - it was definitely worth it, and I would urge all to do something similar - it REALLY made a difference!
I was hoping for an improvement and in all candor and objectivity - it exceeded my hopes.
There are now a couple of hundred miles on it and I still cannot believe the improvement - maybe not quite on the dramatic level of the Weber or the all-new front suspension stuff, but darn close - and it has probably added to the clutch's lifespan.

I regret I could get no full-frontal shots like sdoan's, but the PS pump was in the way.
Tom M.

* These 4 Moog shackle bushings originally cost $12 - they were not used on the p'up because the shackle bolts are a solid chunk of rust and would probably have been impossible to remove without some dramatic work - and the chassis is Swiss cheese anyway......
> > Left-click to enlarge < <

[SynthDesign]

Nice write-up!