Replacement for engine shock absorber

[ARCHINSTL]

Apparently - only the Gen I and II Tercels have this - guess needed with the unique North-South engine placement over the trans. Corollas of the era did not use it, according to the EPC on our Parts Forum.
Tom M.

[4wdchico]

Ok, I got both my ESA's pulled from both my t4's. The older one with more mileage seem to be in better shape overall. The '85 has only 153k vs. the '84 has about 214k miles. Strange but not totally unexpected. The bushings on the ends are pretty soft. I'm going to try to get some urethane replacements. Failing that they look to be the same as the two small bushings on the rear sway clevis where it mounts to the frame. They also have what looks to be a 'yota p/n. So I should be able to get something going in the bushing department.

I'm thinking new bushings for now on the older ESA. Then, in my JY crawls I'll be looking for a candidate for an and on unit to be mounted to the unused bolt holes on the 3a block that are found below and between the #2 & #3 sparkplugs.

[ARCHINSTL]

In a previous post in this thread I included a copy from a post I made in '06, concluding that, since neither Toy USA dealers nor Toy USA in CA had these , perhaps Toy Canada might have some? I received no answer - maybe a Canadian member could check this?
Or maybe Mattel could check with Toy Australia or Toy New Zealand? Thanks, Matt!

From an engineering perspective, what sdoan mentioned about the engine sitting so high above the trans in Gen I & II cars that it acted as a big lever and needed a damper appeals to the blacksmith in me - wish Toy CA could have come up with this answer - it makes sense.
Tom M.

[sdoan]

The latest version of the engine shock absorber replacement.

The parts: The washers show the separation between the 2 springs and location of the lower mount. The springs to the right are old valve springs that might serve instead of buying new ones.







The first single spring version seemed to work fine, but the spring only worked in compression so it might have eventually destroyed the rubber bushings or stress cracked the mounts. This version has springs for both compression and extension, but it is not well insulated where it goes through the lower mount so there is the possibility that the threaded rod will cut into the lower mount. My short test drive made it seem OK.

[ARCHINSTL]

C-L-E-V-E-R !
It would seem that "cupped" washers (as at the top of your Mk II device) could be put between the lower springs and the chassis mount - but I'd guess you've anticipated this, right? Maybe search around at shock replacement shops or well-equipped HW stores?
Or - maybe even an arrangement at the lower as you have at the top with cupped washers and rubber bushings between the springs and the mount? Kinda like the top of your Mk I device. I cannot tell, but did you use the copper tube at the bottom as you did on the first device to isolate the threads from the mount?
Tom M.

[sdoan]

Thanks Tom,

The hole in the lower mount is bigger than the threaded rod so thinking about it later I probably could have isolated the threaded rod from the lower mount with a piece of fuel line pushed over the rod. Though this method would likely wear the hose quickly.

A better solution would be to isolate it with bushings like you suggested, but the rod extends down about as far as it can without interfering with the cross member and the plastic shield.

I looked for cupped washers at the hardware store but didn't find any so the next time I replace shocks I'm keeping the bushings and washers!

Yes, I used the brass sleeves over the threaded rod to protect the rubber bushings.

[splatterdog]

Better get some non or soft metallic insulators at the frame. Those springs will wear the much softer frame away until you need a new hole. That's never pleasant.

[sdoan]

Better get some non or soft metallic insulators at the frame. Those springs will wear the much softer frame away until you need a new hole. That's never pleasant.

You are right - Good idea!

[Petros]

Yikes, look at that grimy dirt and oil build up on the cross member. I looks almost as bad as mine!

[ARCHINSTL]

sdoan -
Thinking about this while visiting AutoZone tonight...
I saw some exhaust flange springs in the Dorman/MotorMite odds and ends section. I did not know such things existed (or why they exist).
Anyway, they are conical and might fit better than the ones you selected. A link is http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/m ... _Part3.pdf Part #03081 at the top right of the page.
I was thinking - using these instead of the ones you chose, with a shock absorber bushing between the spring and the bottom mount on the crossmember - otherwise, an identical setup to what you have in your MK II version.
Lock/adjusting nuts
Cupped washer
Spring (small end to X-member))
Cupped washer
Shock bushing
X-member
Shock bushing
Cupped washer
Spring (small end to X-member)
Cupped washer
Lock/adjusting nuts

Nuts [spring] bushing X-member bushing [spring] nuts

These springs are also ground flat on the ends, unlike the ones you used, so maybe just using a cupped washer between them and the X-member and eliminating the bushings at the lower mount?

What do you think about this?
I have searched and searched for info on the early Ford 60-degree V6 engine dampers that bleakhorizon mentioned with no luck. I presume he meant the Cologne V-6s, but I looked at all.
Tom M.

[sdoan]

Tom,

That looks like a good set up, but the Dorman springs may be too short unless they are pretty stiff. The springs I used were about 2.5" inches long and then were compressed a long way to get some preload. The other issue is that the threaded rod must be able to move up and down through the x-member hole so running it through rubber bushings at the x-member may either lock up the rod or tear up the rubber. I thought I would try to find some nylon (or similar material) cups that could hold the springs while protecting the cross member and still have a hole large enough for the rod to move up and down in. I haven't really looked for them yet though.

Show us what you come up with - I'd like to see it.

[ARCHINSTL]

Will do. I did notice that these springs come in different lengths, and it seems that some were as long as the 2 1/2" length you used.
I guess I'll just have to ask the AZ folks if they would mind if I opened a pack to "test" the resistance- or - go to a "real" parts store and 'splain my thoughts.
Prob not until next week though...but this is an "A" item, since you started it!
Tom M.

[SynthDesign]

I wouldn't doubt there's still a few collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. But, would the time to find them be worth it?

Yes they are still available at a nominal cost from Toyota. I ordered on last week for my build project.

[ARCHINSTL]

Amazing!
The Mother Ship in CA, as I have reported in the past, told me they are NLA - several times !
Is the part # 12307-15030 as in our Parts List?
What was your source and how much?
Tom M.

[ARCHINSTL]

Well -
I sent an enquiry to Butler Toy in Indy last night and it responded promptly this AM: The part has been discontinued and is NLA anywhere.
I just spoke to the parts guy there and he said he checked all of the USA Toy warehouses - and - all of the individual USA Toy dealers' warehouses through a special program, and no one has any of these.
So - if you have further info...

Incidentally, he kinda laughed and said he was surprised at all of the T4WD parts they've shipped this year!
Tom M.