An Australian Weber install. With photos.

[gmeddy]

First of all, I'd like to say This is a great great thing. The Tercel deserves it's own Forum.

I decided to rip off my Asian carby and all it's ugly hoses and go ahead with the Weber.

WHAT A MESS

Someone asked what the two hoses coming off the top of the valve cover were for or where they ran to...
the top one of the two...

just ran down and came to a hose end that i have now capped off, it was never attached to anything that i know of, and was not even capped off when i found it...

the bottom one came to this hose here...

i've got my finger on it.



ok, so now looking at my old carby, you can see here that my cable comes from the other side to the Left hand side driver tercels.


http://tercel4wd.com/upload/thumbs/larg ... CN7594.JPG


the only vac hose that will connect to the webber.


Look at all that excess fuel sitting in my manifold when i took off my old carb!


this is my accelerator cable bracket that was mounted over the egr.
I decided i'd cut it in half so that i could use it on the weber! i realised later that i didn't need to do that as it would bolt on down on the bottom bolts of the adaptor, not the weber it'self.

You can see here i cut my air filter down to size, and stuck the gasket part of it back on with red hith-temp silicone. nice job.
and you also see my modified accelerator cable bracket. the chrome spring that came with my linkage kit is holding my cable back to a hose clamp. i had nothing else to hook it onto.

nice hey...

well thats about it for now, as i 've said in some other post somewhere... it's running rough, and i'm going through the mothions of tuning up my dissy and will soon do a compression test.
the weber mob just said the usual, "spray crc around the mounting plate to make sure you have no leaks."
I did spray around some WD40, but i think i may just have sprayed it around all the vacuum hose joins and plugged off ports on the weber, not the actual mounting plate.

HAS ANYONE had to change their float leven from standard? It's one of the suggested reason for flat spot and hessitation that i'm getting. other than vacuum leaks...

we'll see...

[Petros]

low float level usually should not cause a flat spot or hesitation, the first sign of low float level is on hard stops or turns the engine dies. You either still have a vac leak somewhere or you need to have it rejetted. Verify that your accelerator pump is working too, look down the carb and jab the throttle, you should see a stream of fuel squirting down the throat of the carb.

Also you should try and get better alignment of your throttle cable, from what I can see in the pics it looks like the bell crack will rub on the cable and could eventually wear through it.

I would consider installing the heat sheild under the carb to prevent vapor lock.

Nice job and good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

I echo Petros' comment on the cable. Even if you pop the cable into the groove, the crank will still wear on the cable. From the photo immediately above this last, it appears that the cable mount is way above the level of the crank. Would it be possible to:
A - Bend the mount down so the cable attacks the crank at a lower (smoother) level, and/or
B - Weld a little extension on the mount to move the cable more to the left, like keith did with his bracket (see the Weber thread on the home page)?

Your mod of the air cleaner is clever. Did you start with the 2 7/8" filter or the shorter 1 7/8" filter? I used the shorter, but still had to cut some of the framing under the hood for some clearance - which was still not quite enough. Wish I'd thought of your mod - maybe I will try it.

I'm sure it's not related to your probs - but did you run the feed line directly from the pump to the carb with no regulator? Maybe it is putting out too much pressure?
And it appears that the EGR gizzys are still attached to the manifold - maybe some leaks through those?

Even with the OE heat shield and the OE phenolic spacer, my hot restarts usually take a couple extra "whirrs" of the starter and sometimes an extra jab of the throttle, and Missouri ain't Arizona (or Australia).
Tom M.

[gmeddy]

mmm thanks for them suggestions.
where does an air lock occur?

i didn't think about a vac leak from the egr, seems obviouse.
i want to rip it all off and cap it like thingimy did.

what if my float level is too HIGH?

[Petros]

vapor lock (not air lock) is when the fuel lines, pump, etc. get too hot and the fuel vaporizes (boils) in the lines, effectively blocking the flow of fuel, the car stops running until it cools off. Does not happen on most modern cars (high pressure EFI almost always eliminates this problem), but any carb equipped car with a low pressure fuel system will be at risk if you remove the heat shielding.

The float level will be too high when fuel spills out the float bowl vent into the carb, sometimes stumbling or stalling the engine.

[gmeddy]

ok,
i've bent out the side of my cable crank thing so the cable slips in nice now.

the weird thing about my new carb is,
it runs like a purring kiten at idle, beautiful, so long as i dont turn in the idle speed adjustment screw.
even half a turn in will cause bad idle sputtering and a stall after 5 seconds or so.

idle nice is at around 700rpm.
if i touch accelerator anywhere above that up to about 1100 it is really bad, but above 1100 it's fine again.

so you can imagine what it's like driving around town, every time i change gear or go to take off from idle, if i let the clutch out and put my foot down just a little, and hit that bad spot at about 1 or 2% accelerator, it will pretty much stall.
i have to rev it past to 1200 or more then let the clutch out.
that means even when i'm not changing gears, when i'm cruising around slow street intersections in 1st i gotta clutch to get the revs up before taking off.
i've done lots of spraying around with WD40 and there's no sign of a vac leak.

any other ideas?
other than this problem it's running really really nice.

i'm not sure about the mixture situation at the moment, i'm probably at about 3 turns out. which the weber book says is too far. but thats where it runs best.

[gmeddy]

Your mod of the air cleaner is clever. Did you start with the 2 7/8" filter or the shorter 1 7/8" filter? I used the shorter, but still had to cut some of the framing under the hood for some clearance - which was still not quite enough. Wish I'd thought of your mod - maybe I will try it.

I'm sure it's not related to your probs - but did you run the feed line directly from the pump to the carb with no regulator? Maybe it is putting out too much pressure?
And it appears that the EGR gizzys are still attached to the manifold - maybe some leaks through those?

Even with the OE heat shield and the OE phenolic spacer, my hot restarts usually take a couple extra "whirrs" of the starter and sometimes an extra jab of the throttle, and Missouri ain't Arizona (or Australia).
Tom M.

hey mate sorry i forgot to get back about that last time,
yeah the filter they sent me was the 2 7/8" one. way too high for my set up.
i cut about an inch out of it and made up my own new clips out of some aluminum laying around the workshop.
i cut the filter first as close to the rubber gasket edge without cutting the rubber, then i cut the excess off the filter, and siliconed the filter edge back onto the rubber part i cut off first.
seems be be working fine.

yeah i dont have a regulator, i'm gonna get a pressure check first to see if i need one.
i'm gonna see how i go for the heat sheild thing, i'd rather not use it, but i'll have to i guess if i get problems.

[ARCHINSTL]

You may have checked this already, but...I had a kinda similar problem, until - I had what I thought was a nice bit of cable slack on the cable - but it turned out to be too tight, and I was getting a high idle I could not adjust down.
Duhh...
So I gave it more slack than I thought necessary - and then had to do the idledrop mixture procedure again - which, to me , is pretty subjective. But - that took care of it. I'd suggest doing it again. Your RHD cable routing looks to be a lot more convoluted than is our LHD routing.
Did you block off the EGR port yet? Might as well. Since I did not do splatterdog's PCV install trick, I just cut a plate out of some stout aluminum(ium) with a couple of the regular EGR gaskets.
Tom M.

[gmeddy]

You may have checked this already, but...I had a kinda similar problem, until - I had what I thought was a nice bit of cable slack on the cable - but it turned out to be too tight, and I was getting a high idle I could not adjust down.
Duhh...
So I gave it more slack than I thought necessary - and then had to do the idledrop mixture procedure again - which, to me , is pretty subjective. But - that took care of it. I'd suggest doing it again. Your RHD cable routing looks to be a lot more convoluted than is our LHD routing.
Did you block off the EGR port yet? Might as well. Since I did not do splatterdog's PCV install trick, I just cut a plate out of some stout aluminum(ium) with a couple of the regular EGR washers.
Tom M.

I think i've got my cable tension just right now.
When you say "the idledrop mixture procedure" do you mean the part in the Weber tune book that says to turn out the mixture screw two turns and the idle speed screw in one and a half turns, then turn the mixture in till it runs rough and back off a quarter turn from there?

no matter what my mixture is at (currently 2 turns out) if i turn in my idle speed screw even a quarter turn it sputters and stalls.
i've got no probs at 0% accel, idles nice at around 600rpm.
i've now found it runs a bit rough all the way up to about 2500rpm when sitting in neutral just watching my rpm needle.
but when driving it's smooth as so long as i'm moving along with 5%+ accel.
I'm still waiting to hear back from the weber experts i bought it off...

i havn't fully removed the egr yet, but i've capped off the ports on top. the big steel pipe on the side of it is still connected.

[ARCHINSTL]

Sorry about the bad terminolgy - I meant leandrop method - not idledrop... It is as you describe.
While I recognize what you've done with the EGR system - I suppose it is possible that the valve may be faulty and some gas is getting in from the big supply pipe - just a guess on my part. When you remove the EGR and install the plate, you can also remove the pipe and plug the manifold - use a 20x1.50mm bolt and some appropriate washers.
Tom M.

[gmeddy]

ok thanks, i'll see if i can do that next.
i'm getting real sick of the bucking and splutterying.
it's gotta be killing my drive shafts and transmition every time it does it... and my neck

the guys at the carby place say it sounds like i've got a vacuum leak, but i've sprayed WD40 everywhere and not got any reponse.
they said to check my vacuum advance is working too...
i KNOW it wasn't working before, as i said in the distributor thread, my breaker plate was absolutely siezed.
and i never had these problems before, so how could it be from that problem?

[Petros]

The a bad distributor vac advance will not cause that unless the diaphragm is leaking and your vac lines are all connected. Disconnect the dist vac line and cap it (since your vac advance is not working anyway), and it will tell you if it is the vac advance.

In the carb there are intermediate speed fuel jets and air jets that can get plugged and act like a vac leak. Open the carb and spray and blow out the jets, fuel passages and air vent lines to make sure they run clear.

Good luck.

[gmeddy]

when i took apart my dissy i freed up the breaker plate, so its working now.
but i tested the advance diaphram by sucking it with my mouth and blocking it off with my tongue and it didn't hold vac. so that may be a problem.
there's a place i can send it off to have it overhauled or exchanged or something.
i'll cap it off at the carb and see what happens till then.

[Petros]

It will not harm anything to not have a working vac advance. It should not cause ping. It is only there to advance the timing during part throttle driving (like with steady state hwy driving), at part load the engine can have more spark advance than at full throttle, so it improves economy at part throttle driving. Many of the vac advance on older cars are not working (Including mine). Just block off the vac lines to prevent a vac leak.

It could be rebuilt I suppose, but I have never heard of a place that does it. I search the wrecking yards for good ones and buy them for a few $. But they usually do not last long either since they are all the same age. Fortunately this distributor came in a number of different models, so you have many to choose from.

Good luck.

[Mattel]

I replaced my old points type distributor with an electronic one out of a similar year corolla. Super cheap $35.00 on ebay.com.au these things are readily available at wrecking yards I think the seca and hatch/sedan all used the 4a so it's just a bolt in swap. Should solve your worries