Front swaybar fun....

russkiypenguin1 · Post by **russkiypenguin1** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 4:05 pm

It's so easy to overtorque them, what with the steel being so old.

I put in a request to that website to see what they can do me on shocks/struts and doors.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 2:35 pm

I just paid $112 at the dealer for the end bushings and the sleeves because I couldn't wait. Would have saved a ton going through that US dealer, if they would have shipped to Canada. I could have made the sleeves with $2 worth of steel, and hell I could have used stainless so they would never rust.

Also got the ball joints, inner tie rod ends and outer tie rod ends, 2 of each, after getting jerked around by this discount parts store. In the end they had 5 of the 6 parts in the store and the 6th they got in less than a day. It was all in who I dealt with - the last guy even gave me better prices than I'd heard before. Moog outer tie rods went from $90 down to $20 with a different guy at the counter.

My front end problems should be solved after this.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 5:33 am

3A-C Power wrote: I just paid $112 at the dealer for the end bushings and the sleeves because I couldn't wait.

Dealer near here wanted around $75 for the same 6 parts.

Website above is about $38 + shipping.

Temporarily....I used 2 new sleeves and (10) 3/16" thick rubber disks cut from baler belting to replace the rubber/nylon pieces on each side....4 in the front 6 in back at the nut. These discs fit the sleeve very snugly and when compressed by the nut the discs in the center that were next to the control arm were compressed in there very well...actually worked real well. $18 in parts.

Do nothing at all....PRICELESS......

Revised: Any extra rubber disks used should be NO GREATER in diameter than the original bushings!

WHY? There is no need for them to be greater in diameter...and using them that way places unecessary stress on the swaybar ends.[COLOR]

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Tue Nov 09, 2004 5:33 pm

I got one lower control arm bushing, one swaybar end bushing and one ball joint replaced but it doesn't do much good seeing as my front crossmember is broken where the swaybar attaches. I found that out when I went to undo the sway bar to frame bushing. That must be why my steering is so bad. Now it's creaking whenever I start or stop, and it's only a matter of time before the whole bushing cap breaks from fatigue. The plan is to get a new crossmember from the wreckers this weekend, and if that doesn't happen, weld the bushing cap on. I'm getting a new body anyways.

It turned out much harder than I thought to get the control arm bushing replaced. For a pressed sheetmetal piece, that outer sleeve fits in awfully tight. After torching out the rubber, I had to spend about two hours just breaking that sleeve up with a hammer and chisel (not a flathead screwdriver, a real chisel). Then getting the new one in was hard because it would want to go in crooked and the flange bent in slightly from the force partly because the socket I used to drive it in isn't flat on the edge, so it puts all the force around the outside. I ended up having to push the rubber and inner sleeve through with a puller and then use a smaller socket to hammer the outer sleeve all the way on. When I do the other one I will do it at work and use the hydraulic press and steel bars turned to the right size to press the bushing in and out. I wouldn't reccommend the hammer / torch method to anyone. I know someone here has done it the same way - did you have an easier time of it than me?

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 5:29 am

I'd be careful....if that breaks loose, your wheel will fold back and probably bend the swaybar at the least.

3A-C Power · Post by **3A-C Power** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 11:59 am

If it breaks, my front end is gone. Full acceleration or braking force will be put on the control arm as a lever against the control arm bushing, and it will probably bend or break the frame. The strut will take some force, but it's also being bent at its mounting point. I may weld the bushing up at work today, if there's time.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 11:40 pm

I read this and think- "Maybe my sway-bars need replacement...." I go to examine them, and GASP! They are both new! Apparently the previous owners put in new ones. No signs of rust, all rubber is new, even the sticker is still on the back one, well, part of it. No wonder I was able to confidently take that 20mph corner at 35mph... I can't even do that in my moms Passat!