Weberiffic! My latest install.

[splatterdog]

I used 1.25 wide by .5 inch thick aluminum bar(had some lying around). Steel,a little bit thinner could be used too. Then I pipe tapped the center hole 1/8 npt for a hose nipple.

I clamped it to the egr valve in order to mark the bolt holes accurately. The center hole I measured carefully for proper placement. There is a small amount of room for error here.

[ARCHINSTL]

Dan -
If you are using splatterdog's solution - use his thickness of plate. As mentioned, I used the OE PCV location into the phenolic spacer, so only needed a blanking plate - not one thick enough for drilling. As he mentions, steel could be used as well - I just did not want to see it rust.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

Does anyone remember what the height of the adapter is? flange to flange is what I would like to know. I'd rather make one from some phenolic that I have so that it fits better under the hood, I don't have any problems with the air cleaner (which I already have in the low form), and I have a smoother transition to the intake manifold (which is already ground out per the markup). Thanks!

[ARCHINSTL]

I just measured mine - it is still on the car, under the Redline adapter. It is 9mm thick.
From anecdotal reports, removal of this would enable the hood to close over the short filter case with room to spare. As I noted in recent thread, I wound up cutting 3/8" off the filter element - and still needed the removal of part of the hood bracing to clear.
I guess some hoods fit higher than others? Sounds goofy, but maybe that is the case - or maybe some engines sit lower than others? Maybe the latter?
Tom M.

[Petros]

I wonder if you try putting a bunch of padding on the air filter and carefully force the hood down over it, than remove the padding. This should cold form the hood, do it carefully and no one can tell it will now be a bit higher over the engine.

I am considering doing this to make the long EFI intake manifold on my 4age engine to make it fit under the hood, I only need about 3/4", and I can get an easy 3/8-1/2" from the mount, but the rest comes difflcult, unless I can cold form the hood to have more clearance.

[ARCHINSTL]

I thought about doing the cold-form method you mention, but chickened out when I saw how much it needed. I placed a thick wad of tin foil over the top of the filter case and lowered the hood on it. I could not get the hood to close, even with pressure, and was apprehensive to bang it closed (being inherently a Nervous Nellie). What I wound up with was a perfect imprint of the hood bracing on the tin foil - and it was compressed to about 1/4" - and this was with the hood still a ways from being closed, let alone latched.
I just looked at my hood alignment again, and it is flush all the way around, so it does not sit "extra low."
I know it sounds goofy - but could the motor sit lower on some cars than others? Or maybe lowering the X-member and the trans mount would make a difference - it doesn't take much. The motor and trans mounts I installed back in 2007 were genyewine Toy OE from Butler Toy - and the same fronts were used for all Gen II and the rear for all MT 4WDs, regardless of year.
Tom M.

[deejay1272]

Hey Splatterdog (and others running a Weber) - have you ever had any engine temperature problems running the Weber without the EGR system? I'm told that removing the full EGR system could add extraneous heat to the equation that may cause the engine to run at a higher overall temperature which would therefore limit the lifespan of the motor.

Can you share your experiences on this topic?

[ARCHINSTL]

Well - I'm in MO, which is not AZ, but...I've noticed no higher temperatures than with the OE carb and EGR enabled (and I know the EGR worked). Of course, I am going strictly by the water temp gauge, but I've not noticed any frying of the few vac tubes still present. And of course many Tercels of similar vintage, regardless of drivetrain persuasion, are driving around with totally clogged EGR valves and inoperative systems.
My EGR system is totally removed and the manifold port plugged.
If it affects some cars, it sure does not seem to affect our little guys.
Tom M.

[Petros]

I'm told that removing the full EGR system could add extraneous heat to the equation that may cause the engine to run at a higher overall temperature which would therefore limit the lifespan of the motor.

the purpose of the EGR is to put inert gas (the exhaust that should have little to no O2 in it) into the combustion chamber to limit the peak temperature reached during combustion. This lowers the amount of NOx production, but it also lowers the max hp and max efficiency of the engine. Lowering the peak temp and peak pressures lowers efficiency.

When you are trying to get max performance, you do not want EGR. Older cars never used it, and performance and track cars never do either.

The only time the peak pressures/temperatures occur is when at full throttle, so there is little consequence on normal driving (presuming you area not in the habit of running at full throttle all the time).

Simply removing the EGR could result in ping at full throttle where you did not have it before, especially on really hot days. But I have mine disabled (actually it disabled itself, it is clogged with carbon which I just as soon leave in place), and I have my engine highly modified (11.25:1 CR, performance cam, ported, etc.) and run premium fuel anyway, and get pretty good gas mileage too.

The only damage that can occur is from the ping if it goes unchecked. So if you disable it, and have no ping, there are NO issues at all, and you should improve your fuel economy a bit too.

When I get my 4age swap completed, I will have no emission control stuff that affects efficiency on my engine. My car is old enough where there is no requirement in this state to pass any emissions test any more, so I see no reason to keep any of the crap that affects economy and performance.

[deejay1272]

I used 1.25 wide by .5 inch thick aluminum bar(had some lying around). Steel,a little bit thinner could be used too. Then I pipe tapped the center hole 1/8 npt for a hose nipple.

If anyone has some aluminum scrap laying around that fits these approx. dimensions, then I'd be interested in taking it off your hands!

[ARCHINSTL]

Maybe just visit a welding shop - it would probably have some scrap lying around.
Tom M.

[Highlander]

The thickness I was asking about was that of the Redline adapter. I'd rather not have the Weber attached to a large thermal sink, besides I already have a weber from a BMW1600 and am trying to cut corners on installation costs.

[ARCHINSTL]

Ooops - I misreread your original post.
The Redline adapter is 33mm thick - +/- 1 or 2...
It is mounted, so it was a bit awkward to measure. So, the base of the carb above the manifold is approx 42mm (33+9).
Hope this helps,
Tom M.

[Highlander]

Thanks Tom,
Sorry to hijack the thread everyone.

[Highlander]

Maybe just visit a welding shop - it would probably have some scrap lying around.
Tom M.

Or a local machine shop, as an ex-machinist, I've got tons of materials, Titanium, S.S., 6061-T6 Alum, Cold Rolled, etc. There's almost always some left over from jobs, and if you take a 6 pak and the dims of the holes you need, they might even do it for you if you're there around closing time