Weberiffic! My latest install.

[Eric555]

One more thing.. Forgot to mention. In my experience once a 32/36 (and most any other carb that isn't oversized for the engine) is set up correctly for a given altitude, you should really only need to change the main and air correction jets when varying elevation. The loss of signal at altitude to the idle jets has always had me go back to sea level settings there. And the loss of compression and overall power has always led me back to a stock accelerator pump.
Small bore motocross 2-stroke engines actually need a richer progression circuit just to respond to anything but high RPM throtle. Learned that the painful way..
So when it comes to getting these 32/36's right at my 7200ft., I just multiply the sea-level mains by .94, and add 40 to get the air correction jets. Can't seem to improve on that..
Eric.

[Typrus]

I'm right about at sea level.

The 4-cylinder Pinto's came with a Holley 5200. Which is, in all actuality, a very cheaply made Weber 32/36 DFEV (reverse of the DGEV). I know, as I have one sitting in my garage.

I want to know what I'd need to do to get either a Weber 32/36 or a 38/38DGAS to run on a souped Terc.

If someone can run dual Mikuni-Solex 40mm sidedrafts (a total of 4 barrels) on a 4AC with nothing but bigger exhaust, I get the feeling a 3AC won't mind a 38/38DGAS too much.

[Eric555]

Don't forget, I'm still a Newbie.. I don't know what manifolds are available for the 3AC, but I can give you enough of what I know to get you into plenty of trouble ..
Any engine can, and in my opinion should, run one throttle plate per cylinder. Now I forget exactly why you need such large throttle plate/venturis to avoid reversion with an independant throttle body (ITB) set up, but it's essential. Plus, you don't just add the throttle plate diameters to estimate the flow compared to a single dual barrel carb.
As far as I can guess, a set of 4 38 or 40mm carbs with 30mm venturi's would be a close guess as to what a 3AC might use. If that sounds a little big, keep in mind what TWM offers for Hondas. 50 or 55mm. throttle plates for a fuel injection set up! And that doesn't use venturi's, that's a 2" plus hole per cylinder!! So they'd like to sell everybody a 4 plate set up that's good for around 350hp. non-turbo..Granted, those are 4-valve, high revving engines.
Those will run because the fuel doesn't have to be drawn into the engine by vacume. But low end power will be sacrificed for the simple fact that the velocity of the intake air is so much slower at those low rpm's than otherwise. Good air fuel ratio or not.
ITB's get a bad reputation from such set ups. They're considered to be race track only pieces by most. The thing is, why have all japanese motorcycles use ITB's since forever?? Even on bikes made in the 60's, with engines that couldn't compete with the design ofthe 3AC. Why, because the carbs and intake were sized for driveability, plus performance.
The biggest problem that you'd run into is finding downdraft carbs with the float bowls facing forward like the 32/36 or the 38/38. Down drafts really aren't the easy way to go.
If I were to attempt to ITB's a 3AC, I'd look to motorcycle carbs. Anything in the 32 to 34 mm. range would be killer! Remember, motorcycle carbs don't use venturis, so the "size" is what you get. And if you could find some that have actual cable operated slides, not just vacume slides and throttle plates, those would be super cool. I guess the "SU type" would get better milege, but I've never tried to adapt anything with a vacume operated slide. But that's just me.
And, you can find bike carbs for free everywhere! The Honda guys are starting to grab fuel injection motorcycle throttle bodies to adapt to their cars. Some of the modern jap bikes are pushing over 180hp out of a 1200cc. engine. That'll typically be 42 or 44mm. bores, good for around 200hp. non-turbo (450 turbocharged).
Again,I'm a newbie here, and to Tercels. But I like the combination of great milege, 4WD and good, light handling. But after all, I'm not even sure if the intake manifold is water-jacketed in a way to make a project like this seem less than fun .
Good luck.. Eric.

[Typrus]

The intake never sees coolant.

[Eric555]

No coolant. Cool. There's one nice thing about using street bike carbs for a custom project. The carbs need to use a soft mount. Which means whatever "stub outs" that you make for the manifold, you want to mount the carb by clamping silicone tubing to those stubs.
No other mount. Not anything solid at least. So what's cool about the soft mounts? They can soak up the misalignment between the Terc's intake ports and the carb's spacing.
If you do get into this, there's some easy engineering for the manifold length from the carbs to the intake valve head.
And if the carbs you find are a little on the big side, they can just be mounted furthur away from the valve head. Also, they use very low fuel pressure. Just like the Webers, or less, so the stock pump should work fine. If the stock pump is truly built for 7psi., then running 1 or 2 psi would let it put out a lot more flow.
Just be careful. I would find another manifold if you're truly going through with this. It's not worth the downtime for something like this. You will run into problems along the way. But it's doable. Eric.

[Typrus]

Heh... Just keep in mind that the intake and exhaust mesh, and whatever intake flange you come up with needs to be the same thickness as the exhaust, or else neither one will tighten fully.

Someone makes a Weber sidedraft manifold for the 4AC, which will work on the 3AC.

[Eric555]

I better go take a look at mine.. My idea was to chop the intake manifold about a half inch from the head, use it as a flange, and have some thick sections of aluminum tubing welded around each port to create "stubs" to clamp silicone hose sections to.
Any welder could do that. It wouldn't be a bad idea to include a vacume nipple into each for carb syncing and a signal source. As a signal source, all 4 get merged together..
Eric.

[Eric555]

BTW Typrus. Thanks for listing the Tercels you've crashed.. There's no glory in boasting about our mistakes, but there's no honor in trying to cover them up.
I've destroyed 10 cars in my time. But I've also save countless accidents from happening. Some while I was just minding my own buisness even! All of them a result of the skills I've gathered en route to destroying those cars..
There's a saying among my car-motorcycle buddies around here. Those of us who accept the fact that if you're going to play, you gonna pay.
Wether it's a blown engine, a balled up project car, or a broken body part, it's simple. "That's racing..."
Eric.

[trevmountain]

Wow that is exactly what I want to do. It looks better and it makes for more room in the engine compartment. I'd like to do the egr conversion as well, is it rather difficult or not to bad? Also was wondering what benefits you get running a fuel regulator, I assume it's for better fuel pressure correct. I didn't get the jet kit I figured I'd see how it does out of box and if needed I could add the kit later for better performance. Also I never did mention but I've got a 2 inch custom exhaust all the way with a high flow cat and a gibson super flow muffler, maybe the jetting I get will relate to the exhaust somehow. Well thanks for the pics it'll give me a goal to shoot for and hopefully I can pull this off with out any help but I'm pretty new to this stuff we'll see how I do hope to start in soon.

Trevor

[splatterdog]

EGR to PCV is pretty easy. I used a small bar of aluminum. Match drilled the bolt holes to the old egr valve then did the same for the center hole. The center gets drilled and tapped with a 1/8 npt pipe tap, which luckily is the cheapest pipe tap if you don't already have one. Then add a brass hose nipple and hose. Breather hose goes to plastic bushing on bottom air cleaner pan. There's two tight bends, just use the natural curve of fresh off the spool hose and it won't kink.

Now on the exhaust manifold end. Take the large "banjo" bolt that attaches the egr pipe to the autoparts store. Match it up with the same size oil drainplug. It's 20x1.50mm (napa part#704-1046).

The regulator is just to protect the carb from too much pressure. It would seem they are not necessary as I can bottom out the adjuster screw and still only get 2.5 out of it. Better safe than sorry IMO and it looks cool! Even with regulators I had to lower my floats a bit to prevent spillover. Next time I need any parts I will also be getting viton tipped needles as well for better fuel control.

[gatemaster]

Eric555 , I was wondering what your jet setup is. I am at 7200ft altitude also(sandia mtns.) and racetep sent me main primary-120 main, secondary-130, prime airjet-190, secondary airjet 200, both idles-50 but the car still doesn't idle right. I have checked for all the possible vacuum leaks.
I have searched the web and can't find any diagrams or drawings showing the secondary enrichment mod, where a small hole is plugged. can someone post a drawing or diagram so I am clear on the mod?

[deejay1272]

EGR to PCV is pretty easy. I used a small bar of aluminum. Match drilled the bolt holes to the old egr valve then did the same for the center hole. The center gets drilled and tapped with a 1/8 npt pipe tap, which luckily is the cheapest pipe tap if you don't already have one. Then add a brass hose nipple and hose. Breather hose goes to plastic bushing on bottom air cleaner pan. There's two tight bends, just use the natural curve of fresh off the spool hose and it won't kink.

Splatterdog - Did you use any sort of a gasket between the aluminum block and the EGR valve port (below the base of the Weber)? I'm considering doing this, but I'm worried about leakage.

[ARCHINSTL]

I cut a plate from a really stiff sheet of aluminum app 1/8" thick. I used the EGR port as a template and just drew around it. I did use two of the regular EGR gaskets, plus a film of Permatex red sealant. It just seemed to make sense.
Note that I did not run the PCV tube to the plate as did splatterdog; I used the OE phenolic hookup for that. So my plate is just a blocking plate - it does not leak.
Tom M.

[teranfirbt]

Quick tip for those who remove the stock fuel heater plate and have heat soak issues.
Get a carb to spacer gasket for a 70's 2.3 Pinto (Fel Pro # 60225), they ran the Motorcraft version of the Weber and the gasket matches right up, but is about 3/8" thick made of an insulating material, my carb rarely gets above engine bay temp and it starts every time no matter how hard I've been running it or let it heat soak.

[deejay1272]

I cut a plate from a really stiff sheet of aluminum app 1/8" thick. I used the EGR port as a template and just drew around it. I did use two of the regular EGR gaskets, plus a film of Permatex red sealant. It just seemed to make sense.
Note that I did not run the PCV tube to the plate as did splatterdog; I used the OE phenolic hookup for that. So my plate is just a blocking plate - it does not leak.
Tom M.

Tom - do you recall the approximate dimensions of the aluminum plate that you used? I'm planning to implement the Splatterdog PCV solution to give me a bit more breathing room under my hood and I'm making a list of materials that I'll need.

Thanks,
Dan