Hotter Heater Hints

[ARCHINSTL]

OK - so this does not rank up with many other technical treatises...but it made my tootsies feel better.

1. There is a 1" x 3" hole in the heater ducting which permits air to heat the firewall - for no discernible reason. I blanked it with a piece of duct tape. While not being able to gauge the air flow prior to the sealing, suffice to say that the amount that was exiting is now directed to a more useful purpose. See the photo for the general location. It is actually seen from the right footwell, using a mirror.

2. Try as I might, I have been unable to get the water valve to open quite all the way with the cable. So I just unhooked the cable at the wire spring connection to the valve and pulled it fully open. Not a big movement, but it had to improve the flow. The weather will be cold for a while, so the loss of movement is irrelevant.

3. I noticed that there was evidence of an angled "flap/director/lip" of some sort which had been broken from the top of a vent at the driver's foot area (see photo). I do not know how big it was, but no matter; I just Liquid-Nailed a piece I formed from a piece of plastic drain pipe using a hot-air gun. Again, the increased flow is not something I can measure, but it is definitely an improvement in directing the flow toward the tootsies instead of toward the fuse panel!

I presume the mouse-nesting problem is confined to non-AC equipped cars? It seems, given the lack of info in the blasted FSM on the heating system, that with AC-equipped cars the air blows through the AC casing and then through the heater radiator and then to the appropriate vents? At least that is what it looks to me...it looks like to check the two radiators the AC shell has to be removed? Since the prior owner was a smoker and there have been 20+ years of air flowing, it would seem that these radiators should be cleaned in some way? This will wait until Spring, as it seems that more has to be removed than just the glovebox and the center console arrangement for access - correct?

Incidentally, the 4" PVC plastic sewer pipe material I used for the flap can be used for a plethora of patching purposes when manipulated with a hot-air gun. I've used it to repair the safety "flap" on the lawnmower and other household repairs. Sometimes a dented piece can be gotten for gratis at a home improvement store.
Tom M.

[MootsMan]

Hey, guys, I want to re-open this thread.......I have heater issues !!

Why will the heater not put out HOT AIR ???? My coolant level seems to go down a bit over time, so I'm adding a little every couple of weeks, but the car has not overheated, and the temp. indicator stays right in the middle of the gauge. Fan blows good, and it heats reasonably good as long as it's not TOO cold outside, but once it gets down below 30, it just doesnt' get the job done. I like a car heater to run me out if I am so inclined, and this one just barely takes the chill off.

Any ideas ?? I dont' think it's a matter of getting enough air thru the system, but of getting the air to the adequate temperature, and I really don't know much about the heating system to know where to start looking.

Thanks for any ideas y'all can pass on !!

MM

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, first you take a thermometer and stick it...oops, my days as a young parent are showing...

As to the leaks: I would wrap a Bounty-type paper towel around all of the hose connections that are accessible and see if there are any coolant stains; then tighten those so revealed (and indeed, all clamps), but first determine if there is a leak at hose junctures before worrying about other causes.

If there are no leaks revealed by the above method, there may be leaks in the head gasket...

As to the water temperature - possibly the valve is not fully open/slipped closed; the heater core is partially clogged; the thermostat is stuck open (how old is it?).
Keep us informed.
Tom M.

[Typrus]

My heater hose valve (actuated by the graduated cold-hot lever) never opens fully on its own. Air will be barely warm. I have to get out and force it. Try that?

[MootsMan]

Dumb question warning !!!!

I'm guessing that's somewhere up along the firewall, under the hood ??

[waynehoc]

Mootsman, have a look at the fifth pic down on this page viewtopic.php?t=1763&start=30

The heater control valve is close up against the firewall at about the 8:30 pm position.

[takza]

Not bragging or anything, but my heater does OK after the car is warmed up in near zero weather set on the first or second fan notch.

I did pull the heater controls and oil/grease them and all the cables...and adjusted the heater valve and air door cables as per the manual. Make sure you have the full range on motion with all the valves...water and air?

As far as getting to the heater core...that's not really a journey you'd want to start out on lightly? I change the coolant when called for and use the longer lasting stuff.

[Iain]

I'd check for leaks, do a cooling system flush. If that does not fix your problem and your car warms up properly, then your heater core is clogged.

my .02

[MootsMan]

Thanks, guys ! I worked on the heater hose valve for just a couple minutes this morning, and seemed to provide more heat on the trip into town. It's still a bit stiff on the dash control, so i'm going to work on it a little more this weekend. I don't enjoy riding around with frost on the inside of the windows !!

[ARCHINSTL]

M-M...
Just as I recommended in my first post, disconnect the "enabling wire" from the valve itself and pull it all the way open (maybe a squirt of White Lightning on the valve's shaft - I know you are familiar with that... ).
It's not as though a full-blast T4WD heater will be too much, even in the balmy Mid-South.
Tom M.

[Mac]

keep in mind all out cables have streached or straightened over the years, luckily you can ajust them.

its difficult to explain, but if your mechanically minded enough to tackle this problem, you can probably figure it out.

some things i ajusted are the fresh/recerc cable, the heat/cold cable, and the arm connected to the heat/cold switch that controls a flap that directs air either around or through the heater core.

[2wagons]

On my '87 it is pretty toasty. However, my '83 was quite cold and I always needed a blanket, gloves and hat. I found if I slipped a piece of cardboard in between the radiator and front frame it seemed to work well at increasing my heat. They were easy to find but I sure got strange looks rummaging around trashcans at gas stations looking for an old box! . Remember to take it out when it gets warm!

[Typrus]

It might be a good idea to run some Radiator Cleaner in the system for a while. I have Zerex Super Cleaner in mine right now. Has a powerful chelator, amongst other things. After only 1 day (they recommend 3-9 hours drive time with it) my fluid is looking pretty cloudy with some stuff suspended in it. Heater is already more responsive as well.

[Mac]

if you ever used engine coolant sealer, a flushing additive could spell death, I've had it reconstitute the engine sealer and make the T-stat stay closed cooking the engine.

[Typrus]

I never have. Dunno if anyone in the past has though.
Believe me, I've been keeping a very close eye on the Thermostat gauge. Its been so erratic for a while, I never know if it'll go too high up. I actually look at it more than my fuel gauge any more. Lol.
It does seem to be slightly more stable since I put it in. We'll see what she does today. I have to fix some vacuum routing I was playing with. Get it all fuly hooked back up so I can see how bad she runs.

I don't look forward to tracking the leak down >.< sigh...