Choosing an oil filter...use only the best?

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:51 am

Only issue with the rear brakes is if your emerg brake cables are snapped...the brakes won't self-adjust. You'll find your brake pedal going down quite a bit after awhile.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:57 am

Typrus wrote:Wait a sec... You guys use the PL30001? I'm running the recommended one... PL22821... That stinker is huge! It looks by the pic to be big enough for a truck! Heck, it is the recommended one for the F-series from the late 60's to late 90's! Not to mention the Pinto. Lol.

Ok. Off Purolator's site-
PL22821 (1984 recommended application) 3.15" OD, 3.94" high, 3/4-16 thread, 12-15PSI relief valve, UNF-2B thread pitch
PL30001 (Used 75 Pinto as reference) 3.78" OD, 5.14" high, 3/4-16 thread, 8-16PSI relief valve, UNF-2B thread pitch
PL14476 (1986 recommended application) 2.69" OD, 2.93" high, 3/4-16 thread, 14-18PSI relief valve, UNF-2B thread pitch

So based purely on size, assuming the seal will seat properly, I'd go PL30001. Based on relief valve however, it's min spec is lower than either Terc, but higher max than the PL22821.

That small filter in the pic looks in real life like it should fit a riding lawn mower or something. The relief valve for the PL30001 is rated pretty low...but I'm doubting the valve would open too often.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:09 pm

I'm tempted to find a filter for my moms car thats as highly or near as highly rated as a Pure1 to try. 20+PSI Bypass? With all the revving I do, its kind of a near-mandatory thing....

Or maybe find some other turbo-charged car that might have a big filter that'd fit and has a high bypass rating? (shrug)

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 4:28 pm

http://info.rockauto.com/WIX/DetailWIX. ... Part=51191
1996 Passat TDI

http://info.rockauto.com/WIX/DetailWIX. ... Part=51394
1984 Toyota Tercel SR5

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 4:31 am

Here are the filters that filter down to around 10 microns?

"The way the Pure One achieves this filtering efficiency is by combining three different types of materials in their filter: paper like everyone else to catch the big stuff, and cellulose and fiberglass fibers to fill in the "large" holes in the paper with their much finer fibers.

Filters like this are now made by Purolator, Hastings (marketed as AMS), and Champion (marketed as Mobil 1 and Bosch). Accordingly, the best oil filters are the Purolator Pure One, Mobil-1, AMSOil, and Bosch. If you use one of these filters with one of the commercial synthetic oils listed above, you have the best protection money can buy." "

keith · Post by **keith** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:26 am

Well what the heck. Back in the 60's, there was a very popular add on remote filter made by Franz. The called it an oil cleaner rather than an oil filter, and with it, you never needed to change your oil. You just changed the filter element every 1000 miles and added a quart of oil. The filter element, a roll of toilet paper. If it was installed correctly, it actually worked. The one on my mothers car was not installed correctly and ruined the engine. My dad had one put on his car and after 10 years and 100k miles of mostly city driving and trailer towing, you could not tell the oil had not been changed since the break in oil was drained at 600 miles. Of course, the oil was effectively change every 5k since the filter took out a quart and you had to replace it. My grandfather put 170k on his car with that filter and it ran like new at the end.

But things have changed. Toilet paper has gotten better at being toilet paper and worse as an oil filter, where oil filters have gotten better as oil filters. Oil filters never were worth a crap as toilet paper though. Engines run so much cleaner now and oil has gotten so much better, the filters have less to do now than they did back then.

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:15 pm

keith wrote:Well what the heck. Back in the 60's, there was a very popular add on remote filter made by Franz.....Oil filters never were worth a crap as toilet paper though.

What did I write about humor? Good one here.
I actually remember those filters. Popular Mechanics and its peers used to have big ads back in the '50s (and probably before). Wonder what ever happened to the company - maybe find one on eBay?
Tom M.
EDIT - - -
It's actually still available! I Googled it and came up with all kinds of happy owners. The company is located in ID. Check out the link to the company's site - fascinating!
http://autorepair.about.com/gi/dynamic/ ... frantz.htm
EDIT- MKII:
And - check out the pricing structure....

keith · Post by **keith** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:40 pm

Wow, I didn't know they were still around. I hope no one interprets my post as an endorsement, it meant as a bit of historical trivia and a small diversion. Y'all carry on with the debate OK?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:52 pm

Well, if they've been around that long....

I wonder if it matters if its Septic-Safe TP or not.

Absolutely fascinating. They claim 1/10 of a micron. At what efficiency I wonder?

I'd be worried about modern TP degrading too quickly. After all, its supposed to dissolve fairly easily nowadays.

Mickey_D · Post by **Mickey_D** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:42 am

Use commercial stuff. You know, what we used to call in the Navy "John Wayne TP"?

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:08 pm

Just an added note, I recently did an oil change (and hit 180K miles) and used Valvoline MaxLife 10-40 with a Mobil1 Filter. About 50 miles before the change I was about 1/2 qt low so I topped it off with some general use Castrol ATF (to clean it out.) Now (after the oil change) I'm getting a lot of top-end knocking upon 1st startup in the morning. My car is usually parked outside my garage on a small incline. I don't remember this happening with the last few oil changes. I typically use straight Valvoline 10-40 (when it's on sale by the case) or Valvoline or Napa brand (which is manufactured by Ashland Mfg, the same people who make Valvoline) MaxLife 10-40. The only real difference is the filter of choice. I typically use the Pure1 or Napa Gold Brand filters due to price, but I tried the Mobil1 this time since I had a gift card to GI Joes..... I'm going to use the Purolator Pure1 next time and if it doesn't knock after the oil change I don't think I'll be using the Mobil1 again.

keith · Post by **keith** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:32 pm

When I was in, we called it "Rambo" TP, probably for the same reason.

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:32 pm

Now (after the oil change) I'm getting a lot of top-end knocking upon 1st startup in the morning.

If it were me, I'd get that oil filter changed out asap - sounds like you got one with a bad anti-drainback valve/flap.

I had this happen a few oil changes back, and it was a bad filter. Changed the filter and problem was gone.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 5:42 pm

someone metntioned a jeep, the mustang oil filter works on the SOHC 4.0L inlike 6 Jeep engine too. we did that with my friends moms 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee.

I beleive fram calls for a PH16 for the Jeep and the mustang filter is PH8A. they are the same size in terms of diameter of filter and gasket, but the PH16 is about half the height.