Painting Bumpers and Trim

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I used RustOleum Satin Black Spray and R-O Plastic Primer on the grille and surrounds, but did not scuff with sandpaper, in case it did not stick to the "chrome" of the surrounds and I had to go back to the shiny finish.

I used just the R-O Satin Black on the bumpers, but wet-sanded with 600 grit - that really got them so smooth that I was tempted to just leave them be. I removed the rear bumper and sprayed it with 4 coats. I masked the front and sprayed it - then found a few blems, so used the "liquid" satin black and applied it with a roller.
Yes, I wrote "a roller!" I found a small 4" roller at Home Depot made from a special, high-density foam, specifically for smooth surfaces - and it worked like a charm!
Really !
No bubbles as one might expect ! The brand of the roller is "RollerFoam," and the manufacturer is Quali-Tech. It did not reach up under the grille and the top of the bumper/body juncture as did the spray, but that was not a concern, as those areas were adequately covered from 3 spray coats.

Now that the paint has "cured," I have thought about waxing the bumpers to eliminate any possible tendency to scuff (has not happened yet), but have resisted, because there may be a need to recoat once the Winter is past - dunno about the durability over the long haul yet.

I also used the roller on the windshield surround, the above-door drip rails, and the rub strips (?) at the window sills, after laboriously removing the baked-on OE coating with acetone, Q-tips, and a razor blade (that which had not already flaked/cracked off).
It's actually a pretty good 6-foot paint job on the trim - which surprised me, given how smooth the OE chome finish is; here again, I did not scuff with sandpaper/use the primer, as I was unsure if the paint would stick.
Tom M.