how-to: 4A-C swap

[dirklc]

I'm headed to the local pull & pay in search of spares this weekend. Their online inventory has a couple Novas ('87 and '88). No idea what's left but definitely looking for a carb and would cart off a 4AC for down the road if the price is right.

What would you look for to evaluate the engine? I've never bought an engine without hearing it run. Assuming both the '87 and '88 are still whole (and the '88 has a 4AC, not the 4AGE) then I'm guessing I'll look at mileage, maybe pull the head for a visual inspection of the valves & pistons.

The yard has engine hoists. Dumb question: About how much does the long block weigh? Just wondering if I'll need to borrow a hoist to get it unloaded at home or if I'll be able to get it unloaded.

And thank-you for taking the time to post the detailed instructions for the swap. It's not something I need to worry about in the short term but good to know I could tackle it. Really helpful!

[Petros]

first inspect the sides of the block make sure it did not throw a rod though the crank case (I saw one big hole that was behind the starter, did not see it until the starter came out, it was a low mileage car too.). Pull the head and look at the exhaust valves and condion of the cylinder walls. This mean you will have to replace the head gasket, better than than find out after you have the engine installed. A burned exhaust valve in not a reason to reject it, but you will know ahead. Sometimes an exhaust valve can break off and embed itself in the top of the piston, reject an engine like that.

If it passes both those inspections pull the short block (it is much easier with the head off, better access and it weights less). Than remove the pan and remove the number four rod bearing cap and inspect the bearing. If it was ran without oil this is the first one to fail (furthest from the oil pump). Again if it is bad, but the crank journal is not screwed up, replacing the rod bearings and easy and cheap. If the crank journal is badly chewed up find another engine.

With the head off it is not too bad to muscle the engine short block and head around separately. A complete head is about 40lbs, and short block with all the external accessories removed is about 180lb I would guess. I can lift it by myself and move it if I do it carefully.

[deejay1272]

Good to know. Someday I hope to pull an old 4AC motor to keep as a fixer project and eventually install in the Terjunken.

[dirklc]

Thanks, Petros. Great advice - I really appreciate it.

[Petros]

what it comes down to is the cars end up in the wrecking yard for a reason. If they are wrecked badly, likely it was in running condition. But more often on cars this old the body is in fair shape, so it means it ended up in the yard because it had a costly mechanical problem. Which means either internal engine, or transmission. Just grabbing an engine means you have a 50 percent chance the engine is internally trashed. OTH, I have seen them in the yard with only a bad head gasket, that is a reasonably easy fix.

[dlb]

someone recently mentioned that 4ACs can often be found quite cheap on various corolla forums due to dudes upgrading from 4ACs to 4AGEs. can't remember who said it or find the thread but found this one which is similar:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3652&p=27350

[4wdchico]

someone recently mentioned that 4ACs can often be found quite cheap on various corolla forums due to dudes upgrading from 4ACs to 4AGEs. can't remember who said it or find the thread but found this one which is similar:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3652&p=27350

That would be club4ag.com. I bought a 4ac with all accessories on it for $160 & it is very good shape. I found the seller on club4ag and he was in my hometown, sweet deal.

[MootsMan]

Can anyone give me information about the pilot bearing necessary when going from 3A to 4A ? It'd be great if anyone has a part # and knows where it could be purchased.