Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

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HomeSkool
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My tercel:: 87
Location: Nelson B.C

Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

Post by HomeSkool » Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:55 am

Man my back is sore.
My 87 air vent engine needed replacement,
Located under the passenger side Dash.

Found a replacement engine soon enough at my Local Lordco
here in Victoria. Of couse I am such a keener I thought it would be as
easy as pie to replace. Remove my glove box and have at her.
Three and a half hours later,

I needed to get the engine out of the bottom of the unit.
It drops down with three screws. But the angle it comes out
makes it impossible to just drop down for easy replacement.

I continued to remove pieces of the dash to look for more bolts
that might be holding the unit in. Hoping that once the unit was removed
I would be able to remove the fan engine without any problem.

Well I got the new fan engine in.
I'm unhappy to say my sore back was getting the better of me and
I was getting tired so I just used brute force. Well it worked,
But in my hurry I did'nt screw one of the engine mount screws in all
the way. The one in the impossbile area to reach. So when the engine is
turned on at any fan speed setting it makes a ticking noice because
some part is'nt lined up properly and is rubbing.

Of course I stripped the screw trying to tighten it without totally taking
the entire thing apart again.

Long story short does anyone in the Victoria area know where I can
get more of those screws? And of course any information about how the heck
I can acutally get the unit out? If I can get it out it won't be a big
deal to fix.

Has anyone had as much trouble with this as me?
Hopfully all your fans hav'nt failed!

Any idea/tips would be cool forsure.
Thanks All
Tom

tercel4wdrules
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Post by tercel4wdrules » Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:26 am

I've swapped the blower motor before. I swapped the motors between two cars so I did the job twice, and the second time was much easier I might add. It sure is a vexatious and irksome ordeal. I find it easier to remove the front passenger seat so there's more room to work with but the hump in the area makes it uncomfortable, but it does help. Contorting with the seat in place will really give you trouble. Even with the seat out it hurt my back to be in an awkward position for an extended period of time.

There are about maybe 4 bolts (not sure) that hold the unit right in. The whole unit (the black box with the motor) will come out. It does require a bit of force and it will bend the plastic a slight amount, but this is the only way I have figured out. Make sure the screw holding the A/C amplifier is removed (if equipped) but not 100% sure if it's necessary. It is also imperative that the top nut (above the blower motor unit) be removed otherwise it won't even budge. Once all of the necessary nuts and screws are removed the unit can be removed by pulling on the right side of the unit outward with some swaying to the sides. You will see when it begins to separate from where it meets with the heater unit (I think it's the heater unit). Removing one of the relays also helps with the clearance. I wish I could give you better details with pics but I swapped mine at the beginning of the year and can't quite remember all of the details.

Removing the motor from the unit is a separate ordeal. I tried to remove it but I was unsuccessful so I just swapped the whole unit. I removed the three screws but it simply would not separate from the unit. There must have been something I was overlooking, perhaps because I was tired and irritated. It seems the fan interferes, but am not sure.

Then, when I had the blooming motor in, I realized that my blower motor resistor is dead, so it only spins in the last two speeds. Darn! Still haven't replaced it yet...

Hope this helps and I got most of the details correct. Someone else might be able to add to this.
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"

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HomeSkool
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My tercel:: 87
Location: Nelson B.C

Post by HomeSkool » Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:21 pm

Thanks for the info!
I'm going to hack at the problem again when I get home tonight.
Try to remove the entire box and not just the engine like you did.

That was the first thing I tried to do but I just felt if I pulled any harder
the entire thing would snap. I remember three bolts holding it in. Not
four. I must have missed one. I will look again. I'll try taking
more of the dash apart hopfully making it easyer to get at.

Still going to have to try to locate some replacement screws for the
fan motor since I did strip them, Maybe if I am lucky and can remove
the box I still might be able to tighen them up enough with some plyers.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks again for your info "tercel4wdrules"

Anyone else manage to get this box out with any more ease than
"tercel4wdrules" did?

tercel4wdrules
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Post by tercel4wdrules » Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:51 pm

You're welcome! I forgot a major point. The bolt that fastens the top of the box is what you need to tackle first. Once you "unhook" the box from it, all is smooth.
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"

Typrus
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Post by Typrus » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:10 pm

Go do a writeup t4wdrules.... Nice job!
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed

1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew

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HomeSkool
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Post by HomeSkool » Tue Oct 24, 2006 4:11 pm

Thanks again,
That top bolt on the box was what I was struggleing with so badly.
I'll let you guys know how it goes tonight after I take another crack
at it.

Working in my underground parking I usally get some funny looks,
with my car seat outside the car and me on my back digging around
in the dash with my screwdrive I've had to convince a few people
that I'm not trying to steel somthing. Miss haveing my dads workshop
to do all this stuff in!

tercel4wdrules
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Post by tercel4wdrules » Tue Oct 24, 2006 4:40 pm

I just took a look at my car... there are two nuts (one on the top and one on the side) and one bolt at the bottom of the unit that needs to be removed. The nut that is the worst to get at is the one in the direction where the cable hooks up. Once I get all of the details straight I will do a write-up. Or perhaps HomeSkool will be able to do one...

Wrestling with the box to "unhook" it from the top bolt stud is the hardest part. It does require some force and I was quite nervous that the top plastic part would just snap off. The plastic is relatively sturdy. It takes about 5-10 min of wrestling with the box to remove it. I believe there is one screw that I removed from the other nearby unit (the other big huge box) on the right corner. I think that lets the plastic part lift slightly so the box will be free.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
2015 Honda Fit EX "Malachi"
2001 Toyota Corolla CE "Eugene"

terrytercel
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My tercel:: 1986 SR5 1984
Location: Yerrinbool NSW AUSTRALIA

Re: Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

Post by terrytercel » Thu Sep 03, 2020 12:24 am

So what happened,
tell me more.
i'm about to R&R from blue car to red car with Right hand drive....
I intend to take out whole unit as there is next to zero of any fan.
I'm in Australia, Right hand drive, all and every suggestions welcome

HELP ME.
jEN
New South Wales, AUSTRALIA

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Petros
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Re: Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

Post by Petros » Thu Sep 03, 2020 5:33 pm

this is a very old post (14 years), do not know the results. but I can tell you he did something very incorrectly. it only takes me about 10 min to remove the glove box, remove all the screws and nuts, and wiggle out the whole blower assembly. it is much easier to replace the blower motor (or as he calls it, the engine) after you have the whole blower assembly out of the car. it is all removed with a phlips screw driver and a 10mm 1/4" drive socket on a long extension. only about 6 or 8 nuts to back out, and it almost falls free. there are several connections to unplug, but those are easy. there is one nut high up under the dash where you need a 10mm box or open end wrech to get loose, but will spin right off. you have to remove the steel angle that the glove box is attached to, to get it out of the way, but that is only two Philips screws. it is not difficult at all. do not try to remove just the motor, too difficult when the whole assembly is up under the dash.

Just look it over carefully before you start pulling on it, look for the location of the mounting nuts and bolts, remove them all and it iwll almost fall out. there may be a duct to get out of the way as well, should just be a philips screw holding it.

you can also restore the weather strip type seals in all of the ducts and the fan inlet flap when you have it out of the car, it will improve the heater output.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

terrytercel
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My tercel:: 1986 SR5 1984
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Re: Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

Post by terrytercel » Sat Sep 12, 2020 4:44 pm

Thanks Petros,
do you consider removing the seats will make removing the heater box easier re access?
My now retired engineer mechanic of over 45yrs said "whats 4 bolts going to take to remove", re seats.
Due to my Rheumatoid arthritis (neck, shoulders, back, hips, knees, ankles, elbows, wrist, hands) I'm having nightmares of struggling on my back blindly searching for the elusive mounting nuts and bolts.
i have R&R'd too many clutch cables and brake pedal piston under the dash, pain in the butt when you're able bodied.
My plan, run car up on ramps for additional height, remove seats, presto!!
What I've learnt over the past 5 yrs of suffering this crap condition is Plan, Plan and plan again, considering all and any scenario that could occur, so when I do the job I'm able to do it then and there.
I'm planning on executing this today, though the weather is threatening rain, another part of the plan, check the weather!
Let me know
I have to do all this for annual motor vehicle registration inspection.
Terry was knocked back on 'windscreen Demister Not Working' ( I considered fitting a dash mounted cigarette plug 'DEMISTER' would be suitable, I can't get a definite answer that this will pass NSW Inspection.

jEN
AUSTRALIA

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Petros
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Re: Heater Blower Motor Replacement - INSANITY

Post by Petros » Tue Sep 15, 2020 1:48 am

removing the seats might help you, I never felt it necessary. four 14 mm bolts gets the seat out.

I once drove to Utah in an old datsun to go skiing when I was in collage, from calfiornia. my heater core started leaking just before I was going to leave, so I by passed the heater. I figured it would be okay, but the worst thing about driving in subfreezing weather is you have to drive with the windows rolled down to keep your breath from freezing to the inside of the windshield, and you can not see a think. we had on all our winter gear and could not stay warm! if I knew it was going to be that bad I would have bought a 12v hair blower and mounted it to the dash, the type that plugs into the cigarette lighter plug. I would not try that again. what did I know? driving around in california I did not really need a heater.

replace the blower motor, it really is not that difficult once you figure out how to remove the comlete blower assembly. also, if your heater core is all back up with scale and deposits, remove the heater hoses, flush and fill the core with white vinegar and let it soak for 30 min, than blow it out with a water hose. that should loosen the scale and will improve heat transfer. if you develop a leak, it means your heater core was corroded thin anyway, use stop leak as a temp fix, and start looking for a replacement heater core. they are still available new in the states. .
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)

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