I am posting this in the Guides section, as I want anyone who is contemplating mount replacements to review before installing. It is a duplicate of a post in another thread, but I think it is important to learn from my error...
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I was chary about lifting the engine by the oil pan, so, after supporting the engine by bottle jacks on the iron pieces between the engine and the actual mounts, I dropped the X-member (after loosening the sway bar) and did it that way.
I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THE PROCEDURE I USED ! ! ! !
"PITA" is too kind of an acronym! ! !
When (as) the X-member was loosened, the body rose up slowly, as the weight of the engine was off it (duhh). This was not a great problem, but did result in having to use various tools and scissors jacks to lever it all back together.
You must loosen the AC compressor, if so equipped, to give room for hopefully tiny (but strong) fingers to work.
It's also quite difficult to get a torque wrench in there...
My method was very frustrating, but I did triumph - eventually.
I would certainly recommend renting/borrowing an engine hoist and lifting by the front "hook" on the block's top.
Incidentally, the "engine absorber" is not available anywhere *. Butler Toy in Indy (which is my favorite OE parts source) did an exhaustive search with other dealers nationwide, and came up with nada. The Mothership recently told me that I must use salvage parts. I asked if it is necessary, and could I make something out of a threaded rod and rubber bushings (I think takza had this as a sugggestion a couple of years ago), and also if something similar would be available at an industrial shock absorber company.
It replied that "Yes, it is necessary, and Toyota does not recommend using anything else other than the original part, for fear of death, dismemberment, or destruction." OK, I added that last phrase. Anyway, it's a real Catch 22 situation for various models of Toyotas of the period. I wound up leaving mine mounted, although it is so "soft" that it seems irrelevant.
Tom M.
* Maybe Toy Canada has some?
EDITS :
1. Please note that I did not mean to imply that I lifted the engine high enough to install the mounts: I simply supported the weight of the engine while removing the X-member. Something else that came in handy was a set of stubby combo wrenches.
2. The transmission mount replacement was a piece of cake, relative to the front. Of course, once everything was bolted together, "leverage" had to be used to line up the 2 X-member mount bolts to the frame.
3. Also, if the AC compressor is loosened and moved - when replacing the 4 bolts, install all 4 loosely before tightening - otherwise they will cause the compressor to become misaligned with the bracket's holes - I know.....
4. It is also is possible that my method would be slightly easier if the subject car is equipped with manual rather than power steering, but I wanted to replace the rack's two mounting bushings as well. I suspended the rack by two ratcheting tie-down straps looped over a 2x4 straddling the fenders to avoid damaging the PS tubing-of course, I could have removed the tubing...
5. I still would not recommend my method.
Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
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Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
T4WD augury?
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"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
Impressive write-up man. This would be really helpful to my newbie friend who is planning to install some motor mounts this weekend on his vehicle. As you know, my friend is still new to modifying and troubleshooting cars so your post would be a great guide and reference for him. Anyway, thanks for sharing it.
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
I never thought about doin it that way.
A "Cherry Picker" style engine hoist and chain took about 15 minutes from start to finish, and if you need to rent one, they do fit in back with the seats down.
A "Cherry Picker" style engine hoist and chain took about 15 minutes from start to finish, and if you need to rent one, they do fit in back with the seats down.
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
I used a hand winch or "come-along" on the garage overhead beam. Could use a large tree branch. I have also made a saw horse looking devise that rests on the fender seams and crosses over the top of the engine, you need one of these to drop a trans on a transverse engine installation.
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
petros-- i think i one- upped you on cheaping out in the engine crane dept. two weeks ago i changed the oil pan on my parts car (the old one rusted out- made a nasty mess in my driveway.) anyway, i put a chain around a rafter in my garage, put a large turnbuckle between it and the hook on the front of the engine, tightened the turnbuckle, and VOILA- instant cherry- picker! worked great.
if it aint there, there's a good chance it won't break!
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
I'm looking to do my engine mounts shortly. Could someone who has done this explain an easy way to remove the two mounts?
I thinking of slightly lifting the engine by way of the two engine hooks. But, do I need to loosen/remove some parts before hand?
I have an overhead beam that I can lift the engine up slightly, but I don't want to break anything in the process.
Any advise on replacing the engine mounts would help. Thanks.
I thinking of slightly lifting the engine by way of the two engine hooks. But, do I need to loosen/remove some parts before hand?
I have an overhead beam that I can lift the engine up slightly, but I don't want to break anything in the process.
Any advise on replacing the engine mounts would help. Thanks.
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
Yoyo Tercel,
that is the way I did it, I do not recall removing anything else, not even the raditator hoses. you only need to lift it about an inch, everything else will cooperate since they are all flexible. just do it slowly and keep an eye on everthying.
btw, you remove the top bolt first (17mm) and once you lift the metal part of the upper mount off the rubber part, you use a 17 mm open end to just loosen the lower nut. Than the mount can slip out (the lower support is slotted, allowing you to slip out the mount itself once the bolts are loose). A short throw 17 mm open end is a big help. if you do not have one buy a cheap one and cut it off.
that is the way I did it, I do not recall removing anything else, not even the raditator hoses. you only need to lift it about an inch, everything else will cooperate since they are all flexible. just do it slowly and keep an eye on everthying.
btw, you remove the top bolt first (17mm) and once you lift the metal part of the upper mount off the rubber part, you use a 17 mm open end to just loosen the lower nut. Than the mount can slip out (the lower support is slotted, allowing you to slip out the mount itself once the bolts are loose). A short throw 17 mm open end is a big help. if you do not have one buy a cheap one and cut it off.
'87 Tercel 4wd SR5 (current engine swap project)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
'84 Tercel 4wd (daily driver, with on going mods)
'92 Mazda MPV 4wd (wife's daily driver)
'85 Tercel 4wd DLX auto(daughter's daily driver)
'01 Honda Civic (other daughter's daily driver)
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Re: Installing Motor Mounts - Do Not Use My Method......
Thanks Petros.
What about the bolt on the driver's side - the top bolt (17mm). I have aircondtioning. So, do I need to remove the AC bolts or is access tight but doable without loosening the AC?
What about the bolt on the driver's side - the top bolt (17mm). I have aircondtioning. So, do I need to remove the AC bolts or is access tight but doable without loosening the AC?