tracking possible vacuum leak

[raybbaby]

Today my Ter-snizel just stopped running. It now will turn over, fire and catch, but then dies after about one second. I checked the fuel pump and it seems to be working, so I'm thinking it is probably a vacuum leak or some kind of vacuum advance type problem. I'm really not sure what to do or how to staryt trying to track this down. When I try to throttle up during starting, it makes it die even quicker, I don't know if that indicates anything. I will start taking it apart tomorrow. Any suggestions as to where to start or things to check would be much appreciated, as this is not at all familiar territory for me, and I don't know where to start.

[Typrus]

A vacuum leak will not kill it like that. I'd start by checking your choke plate to see if its sticking.
You may have either a fuel supply issue, which if the pump works then its likely in the carb, or an electronic issue. Though I'd let the other speak before you do anything... Well, except check your choke plate.

[ARCHINSTL]

Don't take offense now, but...
Apart from typrus' suggestion, have you checked the fuel filter? It's cheap enough to replace. It sounds like there is some sort of fuel blockage/obstruction/restriction.
Also, a long time ago, typrus had a problem with his pump and noticed oil on the firewall, indicating the pump was leaking/faulty; I noticed this with my OE as well.

It seems more of a fuel delivery problem (including the choke plate sticking) than a vac tube problem; when I first picked up my '86, several of the lines were misrouted, and the dreaded TVSV was completely cracked through, leading to all sorts of vac leaks/bad info to various switches/valves, and in retrospect, it was a wonder the poor thing ran at all, let alone get me from Nashville to STL.

Another thing you might check is whether the big green electrical connector from the carb (4 wires from 3 sources on the carb itself) to the harness is hooked up/wires broken? I forgot to hook mine up at first, and encountered this same problem after installing the new distributor
Tom M.

[takza]

I've seen a Corolla just stop running from a clogged fuel filter.

[raybbaby]

Well, thanks for the suggestions. After pulling the line from the fuel pump to the carb, the carb is in fact getting gas. I had a friend look at the car last night and he thinks possibly the problem is with the secondary pump, also when I manually move the throttle up. there is an arm that goes to the accelerator pump, and it is extremely slow moving, so I may be looking at a rebuild or to purchase a remanufactured carb. Thanks again for all or anymore ideas.

[Typrus]

.....What about your choke plate..?
If you are doing that, check out a Weber 32/36.... Do a search for it on the forum...
Mine moves very slowly as well, and I'm on maybe mile 10k of a rebuilt carb?

[raybbaby]

The choke plate appears to be moving freely. The butterfly plate down below is not moving as well as it should, and like I say, the secondary pump, the one at the rear of the carb, seems to be not moving very well. I'm wondering how hard the weber swap would be. Is there alot of messing with all the emissions control garbage? A friend has me intimidated about trying to swap this original carb out for non-stock equipment. Maybe it won't be such a big deal. This carb has 180,000 miles on it and is due for some kind of working over/replacement.

[Typrus]

Again... Do a search on the forum. Its very easy and all the emissions stuff just comes out. You are left with the vacuum hoses to the distributor and maybe the EGR.
Ok, at 180k you may well need an overhaul... But I doubt it'd just croak like that... Try the SeaFoam treatment in the repair section?

[raybbaby]

Thanks again. The engine itself has been rebuilt and only has about 5000 miles on it, but I didn't rebuild the carb, so it may be time to trade up. what does one do with the TSTV? I'm off to scour the forums and try to track down a Weber. I wonder if I can by one locally or if it has to be ordered? Much thanks for any help and all previous hints.

[takza]

I'd do a simple test...buy a can of starting fliuid (the kind with some lube in it) and see if you can keep it running a little by spraying some into the carb primary. If you can...it's a fuel problem.

Have a fire extinguisher nearby and up to date life insurance?

I'd pull the top off the carb and repalce the float and inlet needle before going crazy.

[xirdneh]

[quote="takza"]I'd do a simple test...buy a can of starting fliuid (the kind with some lube in it) and see if you can keep it running a little by spraying some into the carb primary. If you can...it's a fuel problem.

or take a small gas tank off a lawn mower. put a cup or two of gas in it and hang it above the carb. (wire it to the hood).
shove the hose over the threaded rod on top of the carb (the one used to hold the air cleaner). it should fit slightly loose if not wrap some electric tape around it to thicken it up. it needs to be a bit loose so some gas will leak by.
start the car
if it runs you have a clogged carb

[raybbaby]

I have a Chilton's manual but it doesn't have very good pictures/diagrams of the carburetor's guts. Anyone know where to find something more detailed for an '83 terc?

[takza]

The FSM has some pretty good diagrams. Find it on the front page?

[raybbaby]

what the heck does FSM stand for?

[ARCHINSTL]

Factory Service Manual.
Although I usually preface that acronym with "POS," as in "POS FSM."...

It's on the board, or go to the excellent http://www.Autozone site, enter your car info, click on Repair Guides, and then click to the particular system for which you need information. Really, it is a very helpful and informative place, and has the diagrams and photos, which latter the FSM (whoops-POS FSM) does not.
Tom M.