Look here for help first!Dealing with Mr RUST :ph34r:
I've found by trial and error (a few more errors than trials?) that the best way to free rusted bolts and nuts is to use a lightweight oil on them and let them soak for a week or more.
This process amounts to giving the bolt/nut a good covering of this oil maybe 3Xs over 1 week or so. Usually after this amount of time...the parts will disassemble like they've been well greased.
I usually use old ATF. Motor oil thinned some with a little kerosene would also work.
You want to keep the area constantly WET with oil.
So if I was going to do my front struts, I'd hit all the rusted stuff with oil or ATF several times over at least a week.
<span style='color:blue'>Best bet might be to start with several apps of commercial penetrant and then move to using regular oil?</span>
Expecting a commercial penetrant to work as well in 1/2 hour isn't very reasonable....these are very thin oils ? (till they evaporate)...that lube poorly when they do get into the areas needed.
But, if used AS ABOVE over a week or more...they can do wonders.
Some of the better penetrants are PB Blaster and Kroil.
Kroil (which I haven't actually tried) is apparently used by many big name companies. (I have faith in advertising?). :blink:
"I've never found anything better than hitting a part with the torch quick and get it hot (but not glowing or anything). Then I carefully spray PB Blaster on a little at a time until the part cools enough that the PB Blaster does not burn off but instead stays wet. A couple more applications and put a wrench on it about 30-60 seconds after it cools to the point the Blaster will stay on it. There is something about the part cooling that sucks in the oil. The fastener always comes right off. Not much wait time (i.e. spray it down the day before you wrench). I can't believe the things I've gotten off with this, including wretched old brake bleeders that hadn't been opened in 13+ years in the winter salt just last weekend."
