OK, I would like if possible to have a place to collect brake info for these cars. I know this has been covered before but it needs to be cetralized.
First I will start with my situation (and you can try it too and tell me how it turns out.) Put 1500 pounds in your wagon, accelerate to 35-40 MPH, then stop fast... do that over and over for 20-30 miles. The short story is I need better brakes.
What I have found.
For the rear:
The easiest and best thing to do is get a Corolla GTS rear end and put it in. This gives rear disk and I am guessing there are upgrades for that car also. Make sure the gears match your car!
The question here is what years work? I have not found this info yet.
For the front:
92-99 Pasio fronts bolt right on.
92-99 Tercel fronts bolt right on.
At this point I have read of Tacoma fronts being used but no hard confermation.
Lots of questions on the front options. Maybe the thing for the fronts is to just open it up for what people know. PLEASE post just what you KNOW. There is enough mystery out there now so lets not add to that.
Also PLEASE lets try to keep this on topic as the information that is on this board is often burried under off-topic posts.
I will add to this thred or edit this post as I gather more info.
Please share what you know so that we may all benifit.
Thanks,
Calvin
The Brake thred.
The Brake thred.
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE 
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
Alright.........
Think of this. I take a small piston, with the appropriate sized supply line and put on a massive piston with the same supply line. My objective is to have it fill in the same time. Thats not going to happen. Point? Don't think that just throwing on bigger brakes, let alone going from drum to disk, will help without appropriate adjustment. Its even more apparent in a drum to disk conversion because of the following.
Drums brakes are self-energizing. What does this mean? A little pressure is applied to push the shoes that have been pulled in by springs out into the drum. Once they make contact, the shoe clings to the drum, as it is fighting against it's solid anchor point. What does that mean? It means that very little relative energy is needed to push the shoes out. The dynamics of how they are set up will take care of the rest. That means small pistons with small travel distances will get the job easily done. Now, that does not mean drums brake harder. It just means that its easier to make the drum brakes get their job done.
Now, how does a disk brake work?
A large piston, with large internal area, is forced outwards into a rotor. A large internal area means a lot of fluid. This fluid has to be applied in the same time as the drums smaller area would be applied. Bigger lines are routed to allow for compensation. The result is that you work a little harder to get more total potential braking.
Also, there are biasing and proportioning valves inserted into the braking design to make sure that the right fluid distribution is acheieved, so that (especially in a drum/disk setup) the brakes engage at the same time and relative rate. That way your back brake don't lock before your front, or your right side before the left, etc.
So if you throw on a disk setup where drums were, and do not change the valves nor lines, you may actually lose braking power.
Of course, thats a general theory. Dunno if our systems are easier to work with or what.
In terms of the truck brakes... They are both huge and use different bolt/hub setups. Sure, you could make it work, but it would be semi-involved and require machining skills. Also massively wide tires to prevent premature lockup.
My mom used the Red as a paper-route vehicle back when it was new. It handled it well, but hated doing it in warmer weather as the brakes would fade horribly. Her route was initially in Denver, then Phoenix. Neither being small cities. Her load was a significant number. I think 1500 sounds right. The clutch hated it too.
Oh yeah... Ought to mention the tranny died at 120k miles, was rebuilt, then died again at 190k or so. Watch your tranny. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE to use a good tranny oil (Amsoil is the only thing that comes to my mind as a top-of-the-line gear oil) and change/inspect at regular intervals. If nothing else, drain and refill the oil every couple 10's of thousands of miles. While draining, filter the oil and run it through a good magnetic filtration setup. That'll extend the gear oil life. Its a PITA to do, smells God-awefully horrible, but just may be very worth it.
About the preceding statement- sorry to jack the thread. Just a useful statement.
Another thing. I've looked previously at adapting a 1996 VW Passat TDi 4-door sedans braking system for our cars, but never got into the final stages of examining execution. Said car has the same bolt spec and a similar hub setup. I can't remember if its smaller or bigger........ A difference firstoff is that its calipers are mounted on the opposite side as ours. Also, it has basic ABS that might be a PITA to setup, but might be possible to just dump. Our 96 Passat TDi is about 300lbs heavier from factory than the Terc, but the thing stops marvelously. Dunno how it'd deal with extreme situations like a paper route though...
One thing that might help would be to figure out a ducting system to direct undercarriage air, or even front scoop air, to flow into the backside of the brakes. Help cool them off at higher speeds, though a simple fan setup might be incorporated for innercity driving. Alloy rims will channel heat away from the rotors faster than steelies will. You could try to find some Ford Escort GT rims like mine? Konig Trouble rims would work too, and look nice. We have a set on our Passat and they are very easy on the eyes. 15x6.5. Issue being the $$$.
Funny thought... Go with the system Semi-truck circuit racers go with... A 50 gallon water tank that pumps a cooling stream of water onto the rotors. lol.
Simple option. Cross-drilling and slotting your rotors. Not as effective as true vented brakes, and in fact may be a bad option, as drilling can create cracking under extreme use situations. Slotting is expensive. but semi-effective.
Think of this. I take a small piston, with the appropriate sized supply line and put on a massive piston with the same supply line. My objective is to have it fill in the same time. Thats not going to happen. Point? Don't think that just throwing on bigger brakes, let alone going from drum to disk, will help without appropriate adjustment. Its even more apparent in a drum to disk conversion because of the following.
Drums brakes are self-energizing. What does this mean? A little pressure is applied to push the shoes that have been pulled in by springs out into the drum. Once they make contact, the shoe clings to the drum, as it is fighting against it's solid anchor point. What does that mean? It means that very little relative energy is needed to push the shoes out. The dynamics of how they are set up will take care of the rest. That means small pistons with small travel distances will get the job easily done. Now, that does not mean drums brake harder. It just means that its easier to make the drum brakes get their job done.
Now, how does a disk brake work?
A large piston, with large internal area, is forced outwards into a rotor. A large internal area means a lot of fluid. This fluid has to be applied in the same time as the drums smaller area would be applied. Bigger lines are routed to allow for compensation. The result is that you work a little harder to get more total potential braking.
Also, there are biasing and proportioning valves inserted into the braking design to make sure that the right fluid distribution is acheieved, so that (especially in a drum/disk setup) the brakes engage at the same time and relative rate. That way your back brake don't lock before your front, or your right side before the left, etc.
So if you throw on a disk setup where drums were, and do not change the valves nor lines, you may actually lose braking power.
Of course, thats a general theory. Dunno if our systems are easier to work with or what.
In terms of the truck brakes... They are both huge and use different bolt/hub setups. Sure, you could make it work, but it would be semi-involved and require machining skills. Also massively wide tires to prevent premature lockup.
My mom used the Red as a paper-route vehicle back when it was new. It handled it well, but hated doing it in warmer weather as the brakes would fade horribly. Her route was initially in Denver, then Phoenix. Neither being small cities. Her load was a significant number. I think 1500 sounds right. The clutch hated it too.
Oh yeah... Ought to mention the tranny died at 120k miles, was rebuilt, then died again at 190k or so. Watch your tranny. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE to use a good tranny oil (Amsoil is the only thing that comes to my mind as a top-of-the-line gear oil) and change/inspect at regular intervals. If nothing else, drain and refill the oil every couple 10's of thousands of miles. While draining, filter the oil and run it through a good magnetic filtration setup. That'll extend the gear oil life. Its a PITA to do, smells God-awefully horrible, but just may be very worth it.
About the preceding statement- sorry to jack the thread. Just a useful statement.
Another thing. I've looked previously at adapting a 1996 VW Passat TDi 4-door sedans braking system for our cars, but never got into the final stages of examining execution. Said car has the same bolt spec and a similar hub setup. I can't remember if its smaller or bigger........ A difference firstoff is that its calipers are mounted on the opposite side as ours. Also, it has basic ABS that might be a PITA to setup, but might be possible to just dump. Our 96 Passat TDi is about 300lbs heavier from factory than the Terc, but the thing stops marvelously. Dunno how it'd deal with extreme situations like a paper route though...
One thing that might help would be to figure out a ducting system to direct undercarriage air, or even front scoop air, to flow into the backside of the brakes. Help cool them off at higher speeds, though a simple fan setup might be incorporated for innercity driving. Alloy rims will channel heat away from the rotors faster than steelies will. You could try to find some Ford Escort GT rims like mine? Konig Trouble rims would work too, and look nice. We have a set on our Passat and they are very easy on the eyes. 15x6.5. Issue being the $$$.
Funny thought... Go with the system Semi-truck circuit racers go with... A 50 gallon water tank that pumps a cooling stream of water onto the rotors. lol.
Simple option. Cross-drilling and slotting your rotors. Not as effective as true vented brakes, and in fact may be a bad option, as drilling can create cracking under extreme use situations. Slotting is expensive. but semi-effective.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
I would consider this a good start and excelent points on the Trans issues.
I understand the issues of proportioning and bias but had not gotten to that point in this thread and also how drum/disk brakes work. In the case of Corolla brakes the Prop valve from said car should work, MasterCyl may also need to be adapted to get the best benifit.
On the Tacoma side of it I am not put off by this yet as fabrication is always a possibility. Also if a person were to go with a larger tire (say 27 inch) then they would not need to be massivly wide to compensate for stopping traction. Infact it only makes sence being a truck sized tire that we try to use truck sized brakes. I still would like to hear more on this.
I like the ideas on better venting wheels and will look into that also. Along with adding some ducting to help in the cooling process.
On the Semi-truck racing setup. Our rotors and pads are not intended for the thermal shock that cold water would cause not to mention the effect of wet brakes.
Slotting is a good thing I think for an extreem situation and this does fall into that catagory. Great for the outgasing that happens with high heat.
Cross drilling looks neat and in most cases that is all it does. Not a good plan for a setup like this. The cracking is an issue. Now if you can get a "cast" rotor with holes instead of crossdriled then knock yourself out (I think Porsh and a few others). Though one issue still would be the loss of metal mass, this takes away a lot of the heat absorbing capabilities of the disk. Believe it or not you want this as it is often the pads that are the real heating issue and not the rotors. A thicker rotor with more metal will pull the heat away from the pad faster than a thin one with holes.
Corolla front brakes?
Someone seems to have been working on this. Still trying to sort out the info. If this does work then this would offset the Corolla GTS rear disks very well. Aslo the Corolla fronts (AE82 at least) are interchangable with the AE101. This would be a nice upgrade for the Tercel. Agian I am unsure what years would work on the Tercel.
This is something to consider. If we find a good suitable doner car lets not forget to check and see what works for that car as an upgrade also. A point to note is that my 84 Corolla Hatch can almost not handle the route either. Yes brakes stink when they get hot. Even after 10 miles of HWY driving at the end of the route the front wheels of the Corolla are almost hot enough to burn my hand.
What about blank rotors. Get them in the dimentions that we need then have them drilled for the bolt pattern. This could open up lots of options?
Seems the big issue is figuring out the front brakes. Any body done anything more than the 92-99 Tercel and Paseo setup?
Keep it coming...
Calvin
I understand the issues of proportioning and bias but had not gotten to that point in this thread and also how drum/disk brakes work. In the case of Corolla brakes the Prop valve from said car should work, MasterCyl may also need to be adapted to get the best benifit.
On the Tacoma side of it I am not put off by this yet as fabrication is always a possibility. Also if a person were to go with a larger tire (say 27 inch) then they would not need to be massivly wide to compensate for stopping traction. Infact it only makes sence being a truck sized tire that we try to use truck sized brakes. I still would like to hear more on this.
I like the ideas on better venting wheels and will look into that also. Along with adding some ducting to help in the cooling process.
On the Semi-truck racing setup. Our rotors and pads are not intended for the thermal shock that cold water would cause not to mention the effect of wet brakes.
Slotting is a good thing I think for an extreem situation and this does fall into that catagory. Great for the outgasing that happens with high heat.
Cross drilling looks neat and in most cases that is all it does. Not a good plan for a setup like this. The cracking is an issue. Now if you can get a "cast" rotor with holes instead of crossdriled then knock yourself out (I think Porsh and a few others). Though one issue still would be the loss of metal mass, this takes away a lot of the heat absorbing capabilities of the disk. Believe it or not you want this as it is often the pads that are the real heating issue and not the rotors. A thicker rotor with more metal will pull the heat away from the pad faster than a thin one with holes.
Corolla front brakes?
Someone seems to have been working on this. Still trying to sort out the info. If this does work then this would offset the Corolla GTS rear disks very well. Aslo the Corolla fronts (AE82 at least) are interchangable with the AE101. This would be a nice upgrade for the Tercel. Agian I am unsure what years would work on the Tercel.
This is something to consider. If we find a good suitable doner car lets not forget to check and see what works for that car as an upgrade also. A point to note is that my 84 Corolla Hatch can almost not handle the route either. Yes brakes stink when they get hot. Even after 10 miles of HWY driving at the end of the route the front wheels of the Corolla are almost hot enough to burn my hand.
What about blank rotors. Get them in the dimentions that we need then have them drilled for the bolt pattern. This could open up lots of options?
Seems the big issue is figuring out the front brakes. Any body done anything more than the 92-99 Tercel and Paseo setup?
Keep it coming...
Calvin
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
-
Gasoline Fumes
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:54 pm
- Location: New York State
Just upgrading pads should make a big difference in braking too. Tercels use the same pads as some Corollas, '85-'95 MR2s and some Celicas, so you can get any type of pad from high-performance street pads to all-out racing pads. Use some high-performance street pads and some good brake fluid like Valvoline's Synpower, and the heat probably won't affect braking performance as much anymore. Even better if you also use Paseo front brakes and GTS rear brakes.
-
GTSSportCoupe
- Highest Ranking Member
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:14 am
- Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Don't forget to upgrade all the flexible brake lines. Upgrade to the braided stainless steel equivalent if possible. This will give your brake pedal a much firmer feel.
Current:
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
91 LJ78 Landcruiser EX5
95 A32 Maxima SE
Former:
87 AW11 MR2 Smallport 4AGZE
93 Taurus SHO ATX
86 AL25 SR5 6spd 4wd
90 AE92 GTS
82 KP61 SR5
85 MX73
87 AE86 GTS 4AGZE
85 AE86 GTS
83 AL21
Good point. The rubber lines bulge a bit. A friend of my dad's has a Honda Magna V-4 cruiser motorcycle. Came with rubber flex-lines. Well, you have to give that bikes brake a nice squeeze to slow you down (especially after a 85mph 3rd gear run, or faster) so he wanted to try stainless. Well, going 30mph, he romped on the brakes like he was used to and near locked up the front wheel, causing him to almost lay the bike over. It made that much difference in a motorcycle, it might just help our cars. Especially if the brakes are particularly hot, then the rubber will heat and flex more.
The faster your rotors can vent heat after absorbing it, the faster the pads cool, and the faster you stop. Its a simple idea.
The only thing drilled does is give the hot gases that come off the pad somewhere to go so the pad can keep contact on the rotor, as far as I have seen and understand. Slots do the same thing, except the gas can escape fully versus going into a compression chamber of sorts.
Make sure that you get a brake system that biases on a RWD setup. Ours are set up with the same split as the average RWD system... NOT FWD. This is important. It also means that the AE86 GTS's entire braking system could come over. I'm pretty dang sure they sell big brake kits for the AE86. Only issue we'd have is adapting the larger bolt pattern. I'd personally prefer the larger bolt spec, as it is stronger and has more aftermarket rim options. It seems all the ones I find for our 4x100 are either very cheesy, or really patheticly plain.
For the tires on a Tacoma brake setup... They would need to be fairly wide or tall compared to stock Tacoma tires. Why? Well, we weigh around 2300lb and a Tacoma is closer to (I'm ballparking) 5000lbs. That means it grips more per square inch on the same tires than our lighter cars. That combined with the fact that they were made to have 1000lbs thrown in the bed. What does it mean? Our cars wouldn't stop on a dime... We'd lock our tires up and squeal to a stop. Unless we either fit ABS, or had larger enough tires to take the compensation. Or just were very light on the brake pedal.
Am I right, or stupid? If I'm stupid, EDUCATE ME!! lol
I love these sorts of threads... You can learn so much.
The faster your rotors can vent heat after absorbing it, the faster the pads cool, and the faster you stop. Its a simple idea.
The only thing drilled does is give the hot gases that come off the pad somewhere to go so the pad can keep contact on the rotor, as far as I have seen and understand. Slots do the same thing, except the gas can escape fully versus going into a compression chamber of sorts.
Make sure that you get a brake system that biases on a RWD setup. Ours are set up with the same split as the average RWD system... NOT FWD. This is important. It also means that the AE86 GTS's entire braking system could come over. I'm pretty dang sure they sell big brake kits for the AE86. Only issue we'd have is adapting the larger bolt pattern. I'd personally prefer the larger bolt spec, as it is stronger and has more aftermarket rim options. It seems all the ones I find for our 4x100 are either very cheesy, or really patheticly plain.
For the tires on a Tacoma brake setup... They would need to be fairly wide or tall compared to stock Tacoma tires. Why? Well, we weigh around 2300lb and a Tacoma is closer to (I'm ballparking) 5000lbs. That means it grips more per square inch on the same tires than our lighter cars. That combined with the fact that they were made to have 1000lbs thrown in the bed. What does it mean? Our cars wouldn't stop on a dime... We'd lock our tires up and squeal to a stop. Unless we either fit ABS, or had larger enough tires to take the compensation. Or just were very light on the brake pedal.
Am I right, or stupid? If I'm stupid, EDUCATE ME!! lol
I love these sorts of threads... You can learn so much.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
Agreed on the SS lines. Major diff in the feel and performance of the system.
I also agree with the statement on rotor heating and cooling. I am not so sure about the drilled though but then I am used to bigger cars that can be REALLY hard on brakes. I have a 95 Roadmaster Wagon also. It is 5000 pounds. I think the Tacoma is a little less than that but do not know. I know that the people on another board I frequent see a lot of cracking issues with drilled rotors on the Impala SS. The do not have the issue with slotted or solid rotors. I do agree that drilled rotors would vent better but the drilling introduces stress points. I have thought about Cryoing a set of drilled rotors to see if the cracking problem will go away but have not had a chance to do so yet.
What is the bolt pattern of the AE86? News to me, glad you mention it. I am going to the parts store tomorrow and will be taking a look at the AE101 brakes components to see how they compare. Since the AE101 is supposed to fit the AE82 and if the AE86 fits the Tercel and the AE86 also fits the AE82 then the AE101 should fit the Tercel. How was that for early morning reading?
I guess I have taken this into speculation mode so that is fine if you all have some ideas. Lets not get too whacked out just yet though.
I have been driving my AE82 for the last couple weeks since my Tercel jumped the timing belt and I must say the brakes did NOT last. I now have metel to metel on at least one rotor. So looks like I may be finishing the timing belt today in hopes of getting back on the road. Heck I may be going to buy that other Tercel wagon I found in hopes that it does really only need a carb. It has a new trans and tires and lots of mold inside too
One last point, I have also been enjoying this thread. It seems that we are getting somewhere. I will report back what I find at the parts store later today, that should help us out too.
Still no one with the Tacoma sway information or how too? I completely understand all the points that you made about this and am keeping them in mind... I just want to know the story in this. I can cope with the difference in brakes I think and they would have to work sooooo much less than almost ANY other system on this car.
Wish me luck on the timing belt I guess,
Calvin
I also agree with the statement on rotor heating and cooling. I am not so sure about the drilled though but then I am used to bigger cars that can be REALLY hard on brakes. I have a 95 Roadmaster Wagon also. It is 5000 pounds. I think the Tacoma is a little less than that but do not know. I know that the people on another board I frequent see a lot of cracking issues with drilled rotors on the Impala SS. The do not have the issue with slotted or solid rotors. I do agree that drilled rotors would vent better but the drilling introduces stress points. I have thought about Cryoing a set of drilled rotors to see if the cracking problem will go away but have not had a chance to do so yet.
What is the bolt pattern of the AE86? News to me, glad you mention it. I am going to the parts store tomorrow and will be taking a look at the AE101 brakes components to see how they compare. Since the AE101 is supposed to fit the AE82 and if the AE86 fits the Tercel and the AE86 also fits the AE82 then the AE101 should fit the Tercel. How was that for early morning reading?
I guess I have taken this into speculation mode so that is fine if you all have some ideas. Lets not get too whacked out just yet though.
I have been driving my AE82 for the last couple weeks since my Tercel jumped the timing belt and I must say the brakes did NOT last. I now have metel to metel on at least one rotor. So looks like I may be finishing the timing belt today in hopes of getting back on the road. Heck I may be going to buy that other Tercel wagon I found in hopes that it does really only need a carb. It has a new trans and tires and lots of mold inside too
One last point, I have also been enjoying this thread. It seems that we are getting somewhere. I will report back what I find at the parts store later today, that should help us out too.
Still no one with the Tacoma sway information or how too? I completely understand all the points that you made about this and am keeping them in mind... I just want to know the story in this. I can cope with the difference in brakes I think and they would have to work sooooo much less than almost ANY other system on this car.
Wish me luck on the timing belt I guess,
Calvin
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
-
jetswim
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:05 am
- My tercel:: 1987 Tercel SR5 4WD Wagon
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Stock brakes!?
What is wrong with the stock Tercel brakes?
Current rides: 1987 SR5 4WD wagon, 1989 xtra cab pickup 22RE 5spd 4X4
Not robust enough the heavy use that I need from it. The stock brakes are great for normal use of the car and occational abuse but they are not up to the constant abuse that I need to put them through.
Calvin
Calvin
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
i used to have fade after only 5 laps around the small course we race now with the vented rotors (cross drilled too) i had 12 laps with stock stuff, and now with better fluid and hawk pads i dont get any fade
tercel 4wd custom suspension, under drive pulley, vented brakes, cold air intake, and plenty more to come
That is interesting. Wonder if it had anything to do with the crossdrilling.
Also were you using the good fluid and pads with the vented rotors? That would make a huge difference.
Thanks for the input,
Calvin
Also were you using the good fluid and pads with the vented rotors? That would make a huge difference.
Thanks for the input,
Calvin
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
OK some potentially interesting finds.
Did some cross reference checking, and yes this may have been posted someplace else.
I will be using the part numbers that the list I read it from used. This is only for comparison and what we should gather from this is that the models use the same parts so that we could order by model and not part. I am pretty sure these are US models but feel free to check on that.
OK the 4WD wagon uses Pad Part Number M7153
So do the following cars:
ALL Tercel’s from 84-99
ALL Paseo’s to 99
ALL MR2’s from 85-89.12
Non-Turbo MR’s 90.1-95
ALL Corolla FX16 87-89
ALL 4WD Corolla’s 88-93
ALL FWD Corolla’s 84-92
ALL NON-ABS Celica’s 86-89
ALL Celica Coupe ST’s 90-91
ALL Camry’s 83-86
Now for Disk possibilities:
The 4WD Tercel uses Disk Part Number TO606.
It seems that ALL Tercel’s form 83-90 use the same TO606 part.
It has been said that the 92-99 Tercel disks bolt on. Seems the 91 has the same part number: TO663
Same has been said for the Paseo from 92-99. Well if seems the Paseo from 92-95 uses part number TO673. From 95-99 it is part number TO663 (same as Tercel 91-99).
OK now lets look closer at possible disks. The bolt-ons seem to have some commonality. TO6x3. If I look for other disks that fit this criteria I can find these:
93-02 FWD Corolla Part Number TO693.
86.1-92 Supra Part Number TO633.
I am pretty sure the Supra is going to have a 5 bolt pattern but I do not know for sure. Also I do not know about the bolt pattern of the 93-02 Corolla. Please someone fill this in for us.
My thoughts on the front brakes is that we can find HI PERFIRMANCE pads for this car with out any issue. Lots of cars to pick from so lots of choices.
On the disk side it is a little more tricky. I think it will come down to bolt patterns in the end. If the part numbering sequence is like most others (and that seems possible.) The bigger the number “xâ€
Did some cross reference checking, and yes this may have been posted someplace else.
I will be using the part numbers that the list I read it from used. This is only for comparison and what we should gather from this is that the models use the same parts so that we could order by model and not part. I am pretty sure these are US models but feel free to check on that.
OK the 4WD wagon uses Pad Part Number M7153
So do the following cars:
ALL Tercel’s from 84-99
ALL Paseo’s to 99
ALL MR2’s from 85-89.12
Non-Turbo MR’s 90.1-95
ALL Corolla FX16 87-89
ALL 4WD Corolla’s 88-93
ALL FWD Corolla’s 84-92
ALL NON-ABS Celica’s 86-89
ALL Celica Coupe ST’s 90-91
ALL Camry’s 83-86
Now for Disk possibilities:
The 4WD Tercel uses Disk Part Number TO606.
It seems that ALL Tercel’s form 83-90 use the same TO606 part.
It has been said that the 92-99 Tercel disks bolt on. Seems the 91 has the same part number: TO663
Same has been said for the Paseo from 92-99. Well if seems the Paseo from 92-95 uses part number TO673. From 95-99 it is part number TO663 (same as Tercel 91-99).
OK now lets look closer at possible disks. The bolt-ons seem to have some commonality. TO6x3. If I look for other disks that fit this criteria I can find these:
93-02 FWD Corolla Part Number TO693.
86.1-92 Supra Part Number TO633.
I am pretty sure the Supra is going to have a 5 bolt pattern but I do not know for sure. Also I do not know about the bolt pattern of the 93-02 Corolla. Please someone fill this in for us.
My thoughts on the front brakes is that we can find HI PERFIRMANCE pads for this car with out any issue. Lots of cars to pick from so lots of choices.
On the disk side it is a little more tricky. I think it will come down to bolt patterns in the end. If the part numbering sequence is like most others (and that seems possible.) The bigger the number “xâ€
Last edited by Finder349 on Tue Dec 27, 2005 1:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
-
ARCHINSTL
- Goldie Forever
- Posts: 6369
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:52 pm
- My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
- Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis
Don't apologize- - -
XLNT work and great addition to the literature!
Thanks.
Tom M.
XLNT work and great addition to the literature!
Thanks.
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
Mark Twain
Well I just had a look at the rear drums thinking MAYBE there was a car out there that matched enough.
My head has exploded...
Besides I want to look at disks out back anyway. If you really want the info I will see what I can do about an excel sheet or something. Then you can do the research from there.
Calvin
Yes this was a pointless post... Off to lookup calipers for the front!
My head has exploded...
Besides I want to look at disks out back anyway. If you really want the info I will see what I can do about an excel sheet or something. Then you can do the research from there.
Calvin
Yes this was a pointless post... Off to lookup calipers for the front!
86 SR5 238k miles, 6sp. GONE
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
85 SR5 232k miles, 6sp. GONE
87 Toyota LE 4wd Van 184k
87 Toyota 4wd Van 236k
Yes I run with scissors.
