Look here for help first!* If you've had trouble getting the oil to stop running down the drivers side of the engine despite tightening the 3 acorn nuts on top the valve cover...you need to buy a new valve cover gasket set.
* Getting the car hot..... I do the valve adjustment when the car is hot. This makes the job a hurry up kind of thing...which isn't good for getting it done right...but it's probably the best way to do it.
I drive the car around several miles and then let it sit running until the rad fan comes on...this is the signal for the fun to begin.
* You can get tools and so forth together while waiting for HOT.
* I remove the air cleaner and every thing I can but the valve cover...and then run it at idle again till the fan runs....this way you are really starting when it's hot.
* Removing the cover can be more difficult than it might seem...remember, there are 3 acorn nuts on top (12 mm wrench) AND 2 small bolts at front (10 mm wrench) going thru the timing cover. Plus hoses on top and around the cover.
If you pry it up at the gasket...try not to scratch the alum...especially the head.
It needs to come straight up to clear the 3 hold down bolts.
DON'T start prying until you have ALL bolts off.
* I used a 19 MM socket on the front damper nut to turn the engine to TDC.
* A 10 mm box end wrench and the right sized flat bladed screwdriver is used to do the adjusting.
* Best to label the valves from front to back in your manuals illustration using numbers 1 thru 8....very easy to get mixed up and do the wrong valve at the wrong time...as I did.
* I use a GO-NO GO method...where if the correct feeler blade goes in OK and has a medium drag...it's AOK.
If it seems fairly loose or if I can get a .001" larger blade in...then it is too loose & has to be adjusted.
If the correct blade won't go in...then it is too tight & needs adjusting.
I had about 4 that needed adjusting...none off by more than maybe .001"
Important to remember > > > the worst thing you can do is to get an exhaust valve too tight...this can cause them to burn eventually.
Whoever did the job last had them VERY SNUG...which I also tend to do...being a little worried about all that metal buzzing up & down.
When you think you have them all done...it's a good idea to go back and check with your 10 mm box end wrench to see if you have them all snug....as a last check...if one happens to move as you tighten...I'd do it again.
Valve cover gasket:
* There is the actual gasket...then a 1/2 moon shaped rubber part that goes at the back of the head...and 3 washers under the acorn nuts.
I cleaned up the groove in the valve cover with laquer thinner and used Permatex non-hardening gasket stuff in the can with the brush...cause I like it. Also some in the 1/2 circle area at back in the head. A little under the washers at top.
I DON'T use it on BOTH sides of the gaskets....so that the next time the valve cover is removed...it's easy to do.
* Tightened the 3 acorn nuts down pretty well, but not too tight. Plus the 2 at front.
Other stuff:
While the cover and air cleaner are off there are other things you can do besides drink beer & swear and stuff like that:
* Clean and polish that valve cover.
* Check all vac hoses to see if they are snug.
* Tighten down all screws and hold down bolts on the carb.
* Tighten all radiator & heater hose connxs, etc.
* Retorque the head bolts and valve train bolts....IF you are very ambitious...I wasn't. Do these in the right sequence and use the right torque...or else.
After you are done:
NOW might be the time to clean up the engine and all the oil and gunk on it. It might actually stay that way for a while.
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