Installing a Weber carb

[Dirtmagnet]

After installing the Weber yesterday, thought it would be a good idea to jot it down while it is fresh on my mind.

The Weber I installed is a 32/36 DGEV. This has an electric choke. Lateer has a great post explaining the difference between the models. I have an '83 SR5 w/3A. I did not buy the kit from Weber(#K740). I purchased a carb on Ebay, then bought the adapter, filter and linkage kit separately from Jam Eng.

Here are the numbers for the parts:

Weber # Description Cost
99217.331 Air Cleaner-short $20
99004.250 Adapter plate Toyota 3AC $33
99007.116 Universal linkage kit $23**See Note

Other items:
1ft of 1/4" dia fuel line
1 "tee" for 1/8" vacuum line(if your car has dual lines going to vacuum advance)
1ft of 1/2" dia heater hose(air cleaner to valve cover)

**Note: I did not use the linkage kit. I removed the linkage fron the stock carb and modified the bracket.

This install took approx 3 hrs, taking my time. I did not remove any emmissions stuff, but it is all disconnected. I left it just in case I had to go back to the stock carb. I do not have a catylitic converter and do not have to pass emmissions.

So far I am well pleased with the performance. Will get a couple of weeks on it and report back.

In the beginning.....


Remove existing carb, down to the fuel heater. I left this on for a couple of reasons. 1, if you remove it , the studs will be too long for the adapter. 2, The PCV valve is connected to the manifold.



Next I removed all vacuum hoses. I did leave the TSV hickey and the metal spider lines on for now. I went to Autozone and purchased the plugs to plug all exposed vacuum ports.



On the line from the carb to the purge canister, I currently have this hanging. Do not know if it should connect anywhere???

Install the studs supplied with the adapter into the adapter, then the adapter to the manifold. (gaskets are supplied) (sorry no pic) Remove the cable linkage from the stock carb and bolt it to the Weber. This can be left loose at this time, and will be adjusted and tightened when the carb and cable are installed. Bolt the Weber carb in place.



I modified the throttle cable bracket, by adding(welding) and extension to it. I used a washer welded to the end, then split it to get the cable through. This can be done other ways or you can use the new linkage kit. The reason I did not use the new kit is, you have to cut the end off of the stock cable. I wanted to keep mine stock in case I had to go back.



Route the cable through the new mount and attach it to the carb. Rotate the linkage until the slack is out of the cable. Tighten the linkage to the carb. Check the accelerator pedal to make sure the throttle opens and does not bind.

Install the new longer gas line.




Use the existing wire that went to the choke(red), and attach it to the terminal on the Weber choke.

This photo also shows the adapter.



My Tercel has 2 lines going to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Right or wrong, I installed a “teeâ€

[Lateer]

Pretty much the same way mine was installed.

How did you go with hood clearance on that air cleaner?

[Dirtmagnet]

Lateer Posted on Aug 15 2005, 02:00 AM
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Pretty much the same way mine was installed.

How did you go with hood clearance on that air cleaner?

Thanks Lateer, I meant to mention that. I bought the short air cleaner and it fits, or should I say the hood closes. It is very close, but I cannot see any marks on the cleaner or the hood where it has rubbed.

I will keep an eye on it.

[Typrus]

WHY DIDN'T I JUST BUY A WEBER?? BLAST YOU STEALERSHIP AND ALL YOUR..... CONVINCING!
Man that looks easier than snot...

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for taking the time to write this out and add the pics! I/we really appreciate it. I may be doing a weber conversion pretty soon; in an effort to fix my poor fuel economy.

[Lateer]

Looks like you got a much better adapter than the one I've got. It seems to fit better over the holes in the manifold.

How's the performance afterwards?

[Typrus]

I'm curious about your fuel economy.

[Dirtmagnet]

I am extremely pleased with the Weber.

Some history...With the old carb(which I rebuilt), the car started well and ran good. It had some rough idling issues but for the most part it was a dependable daily driver. My son has put approx 20,000 miles on it in the last 10 months. Gas mileage was a steady average 21.5Mpg.

The Weber gives it such a broader powerband. It pulls a LOT better down low. This was an issue especially with the larger tires. Highway hills that I used to gear down to 4th to pull, can now be pulled in 5th. On an offroad hill(fairly steep) & the old carb, the car would really bog, you had to keep the revs up and ride the clutch. Now it just walks up with no problem. My son even tried it in 2wd almost made it over the crest.

It really smoothed out the engine throughout the rpm's. Again, this could be attributed to disconnecting the emmissions stuff.

My son took it back over today. This is his daily driver and his words when he got home from work..."MAN.. What a difference." He too, is pleased. He said it evens sounds better.

Just checked gas mileage and the 1st tank through got 26.7 mpg. That is from 21.5 so not too bad.

This was a used carb off a BMW 2002. I did not rebuild it, just bolted it on. I may get my hands on a tuning manual and tweek it to improve the mileage. But if it didn't even get any better mileage, I think it was money well spent.

I figure at the rate he drives and gas prices, it pays for itself in less than 3 months.(ebay cost)

[Lateer]

I'll be posting some pdfs of a manual for disassembly and tuning of the carb.

Once I can get a look at the photocopier downstairs in my department that automatically converts stuff to PDFs...

Could you take a look and see what jets you've got from the BMW 2002? I'd be curious to know.

[shogun]

man congratulations on the install, i myself am planing on the swap too thenks for the info

[Lateer]

Just posted my Weber tuning guide that I scanned from the manual I work from.

Have a look at my post on DGV series Webers.

[Inkyturbo]

Are these carbs CARB compliant?(no pun intended). I hate California emissions...

[Lateer]

These carbs are only CARB compliant if you keep the original air cleaner and emissions gear.
You can do that, there are adapters online for that sort of thing. Most of the vacuum lines can take vac from somewhere else.

Basically, if I was in California, I wouldn't do it. It wouldn't be worth the hassle.

And you've got to remember, with the current world fuel prices, this is something of a performance modification.

[Typrus]

How about standard emissions. They shouldn't give a rats arse as long as the cat is still there, right?

[Teddy1]

I would like to add an important "tech tip" here, since I didn't see it mentioned...

The Weber is SUPPOSED to get 3.0-3.5 lbs of fuel pressure... unfortunately, the stock pump on the US Spec cars puts out 7 lbs.

When I did my Weber conversion about 4 years ago, the local carb shop said "it didn't matter" so I installed the carb and loved it.

Way more power, better throttle response, better mileage, better EVERYTHING. As mentioned, ad nauseum.

However? After several years... I cannot help but notice the leaking seals all over the carb. Also, tuning the carb and ignition timing is a never ending affair... every four months or so, I had to advance/retard timing and/or adjust idle.

Why? Because seven pounds of fuel is TWO HUNDRED PERCENT more fuel pressure than the Weber is supposed to be connected to.

My brand new soon to be on the road 7A-C powered Tercel will have a fuel pressure regulator OR an electric pump that is limited to 4 lbs... which will insure better running/idling and facilitate long term reliability.

I would like to point out that unlike Dirt Magnet, I did not retain ANY of my factory emissions stuff... I removed ALL of it. So, there is a fuel line going to my carb, and a throttle cable. And thats it. I made a block off plate for the EGR by cutting the flange off of the base of the EGR assembly, having the center welded, and rebolted it back in... I used a large plumbing plug for the exhaust side. Ditto for the vacuum trees and pots... all of those have been removed, and sealed.

Anyways. To recapitulate: Make sure you have the correct fuel pressure to your Weber! It does matter, and you will see MORE performance and MORE reliability if you aren't cranking TWICE the acceptable fuel pressure into the poor carb. My local "carb experts" were dead ass wrong... when I talked to Redline on the phone, they TOLD ME what I should expect to see in the way of leaking seals and such.

- Teddy