Installing a Weber carb

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:23 pm

So as long as the cat is there, nobody should give a rip whether the rest of the stuff is there?
If you have a manual choke, can you enrichen the mixture for higher altitudes if you are cruising up over a 10,000 ft pass?
So what jets are best for our engine?

Errr... You have no vac lines feeding to your dist Teddy?
The heck is a water controlled choke? Never seen something like that before...?

So wait.. How'd you block the EGR..? I'm moderatly confused... I'd guess this is not advisable for a car that has to pass emissions every year..? Once these cars hit the 25 year old mark (for our US citizens) just how often do they have to pass? I can't wait to throw some of those blue plates on there lol.

Eatpants · Post by **Eatpants** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:47 am

if you look at a EGR, down where it bolts in

well he cut off the actual valve and welded the tube in the middle completely shut, so its basically an EGR mount plug (with new gasket of course)

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 11:21 pm

do you need the mounting plate? looks like the bolt holes are the same; and if they aren't, is it posible to drill out the holes on the webber so that they fit directly on the stock intake manifold?

FH Bible · Post by **FH Bible** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 3:58 pm

I just plugged th vacuum line on the EGR. Right or wrong I don't know but it is working for me.
j

Dirtmagnet · Post by **Dirtmagnet** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 4:16 pm

Mac Posted on Oct 13 2005, 12:21 AM
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do you need the mounting plate? looks like the bolt holes are the same; and if they aren't, is it posible to drill out the holes on the webber so that they fit directly on the stock intake manifold?

The Weber bolt pattern is smaller than the stock carb. I think the base on the Weber will not even cover the manifold opening. This is why an adapter is needed.

Lateer · Post by **Lateer** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 5:35 pm

The adapter plate is required to be able to bolt the Weber to the manifold.
The bolt pattern on the Weber is smaller.

The Weber will cover the manifold opening and then some, if mine is anything to go by...

Inkyturbo · Post by **Inkyturbo** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:43 pm

Lateer wrote: These carbs are only CARB compliant if you keep the original air cleaner and emissions gear.
You can do that, there are adapters online for that sort of thing. Most of the vacuum lines can take vac from somewhere else.

Basically, if I was in California, I wouldn't do it. It wouldn't be worth the hassle.

And you've got to remember, with the current world fuel prices, this is something of a performance modification.

Damn... In three years when my car turns 25 and it never has to be smogged again a Weber is going on that engine I guarantee you.

raybbaby · Post by **raybbaby** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 9:34 pm

I just got a Weber 32/36 today and went out and set everything where it goes before sealing any of the gaskets in place and I was stumped when looking at all the left over emissions stuff and had no idea how to go on. I'm supergrateful for these pictures. Do I have to transfer the old electronic choke stuff onto this carb? Is that a pretty straightforward deal? Much thanks for any help.

AAUUGGHH!-C. Brown

raybbaby · Post by **raybbaby** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 9:50 pm

upon closer inspecton it appears that the fuel line in the pictures comes in on the opposite side on my carb. Does that make any difference or should I just run a slightly longer hose to it? any tricks to attaching the electronic choke junk?

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:58 pm

raybbaby wrote:upon closer inspecton it appears that the fuel line in the pictures comes in on the opposite side on my carb. Does that make any difference or should I just run a slightly longer hose to it? any tricks to attaching the electronic choke junk?

Yeah, just run a longer fuel line to your carb. You can get rid of and block off all your old emmissions stuff. You just need one vacuum line running from the carb to your distributor. Your Weber will have come with one of three kinds of chokes, either a electric, a coolant actuated, or a manual choke. Depending on the type, you will hook it up differently. You can't adapt your old stock choke AFAIK. I have the electric type on mine. I just ran the wire that actuated my OEM carb choke to the new carb's choke. It works great.

raybbaby · Post by **raybbaby** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 1:30 am

This carb doesn't have the electric choke which my old one did. Will it still work? What do I need to hook it up? Shouldn't the salespeople I bought it from have mentioned this? I'm growing incredibly frustrated with this whole deal. Now I suppose I'll have to ship this back where I ordered it from. More wasted money, more wasted time. I'm off to send this distributor a nasty e-mail. probably won't make walking for another week seem any better, but I guess that allows them to screw you better if they aren't risking a face to face ass-chewing. Anyone who is thinking of ordering a weber online should read this post and take notice so this doesn't happen to you. See y'all tomorrow!

takza · Post by **takza** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 5:38 am

You can drive it without a choke right now anyway. Find out how to hook up the choke that's with it?

raybbaby · Post by **raybbaby** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:35 am

Turns out they sent me the wrong style of 32/36. while listed as an electric choke model, this is the manual model. Not my goof, although a more mechanical dude would have recognized this almost immediately. The listing clearly says;

WEBER DVG SERIES - This 2 Barrel Progressive Carb Is Versatile, Increases Performance, And Is Both Cost And Fuel Efficient, Easy To Install, Easy To Maintain, Includes One 32/36DGAV Model Carb (Part Number 22680051B), Electric Choke, Redline Adapter Number 99004333, Linkage Number 99007600, Air Filter Assembly Number 99217332S, Base Gasket Number 99005068

In adddition the picture with the listing shows the electric choke model. I'll let y'all know how the refund/return goes. I suppose walking IS good excercise.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 12:47 pm

Need a hole in the hood for cooler air... heh.. Or just a ducting route from a place of high wind to near the filter. On the Powerstrokes equipped with Donaldson air filters (about a 16inch long by 12 inch diameter) and K&N cones, we use dryer-vent ducting to route cold air up to the area of the filter.
Heh... Between the porting, higher comp ratio, bigger exhaust, and ported manifolds, the Weber will really open her up.. Still thinking about looking at a 38/38 DGAS though

Though that might be a bit too much as it is a synchronous, not a progressive. (shrug)

raybbaby · Post by **raybbaby** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 1:41 pm

my choke wire comes out of a bundle (red-choke, black-secondary pump?, white to secondary idle solenoid,) do I just cut these? plug 'em off and directly wire the red to the new electric choke post? Kinda stumped here. Thanks to this forum I did buy an inline fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure it will be twenty bucks well spent.

Upon working more on this project, I'm now looking at a picture in the Weber instructions that show a solenoid on the right of the electric choke assembly.(there is just a screw/plug in these pictures, and in my new carburetor) Is this not worth messing with? If I have to do it which of the two solenoids is it? Secondary idle cut-off (one black wire) or primary (two wires)? Also do you have any clear pictures of all the throttle body linkage? I'm stumped as to what to do with the little 1 1/2" arm, the sort of u-shaped arm on the throtttle screw, and so on. It's a bit of a big puzzle to me.

Tercel4WD.com

Installing a Weber carb

grateful

wha-huh?

Re: wha-huh?

what now?

d'oh!

choke wire bundle