DIY frontend alignment...

[takza]

Wheel alignment 101:

http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm


It is fairly easy to do your own front-end alignment...at least it is reasonably easy to set the front toe.

Toe-in specs for the '83-'84 Tercel 4WD wagon are 0 to + or - .040".

This means that at the tread surface of the tires, the DIFFERENCE in inches BETWEEN the tread on FRONT of the tire and the tread on the BACK of the tire at axle level should be from -.040" (toe-in) to + .040 inches (toe-out). This is from one front tire to the other.

If your tires/wheels are larger than OEM, you might have to correct for this to a minor extent...but if you aim for zero toe...you probably won't.

Near 0 degrees or a slight toe-in condition is likely best for tire wear.


*Before starting: You need to be sure that your wheels do not have side to side runout...or your attempts to set the toe-in will likely be off.


What you need:

* a small laser level.

<a href='http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=90652' target='_blank'>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... r=90652</a>

* a square aluminum tube

* 2 home-made bungee straps (approx 6" long overall...made using innertube rubber & coat hanger wire)

* 10' tape measure

* a 6'... 2" X 4"

* 2 jack stands or similar STURDY supports

* chalk


How to do it:

* Find a reasonably LEVEL paved area...this can be more difficult than you might think due to the fact that most surfaces are sloped for drainage...but perfectly level isn't needed...a FLAT surface is.

* Drive your car forward STRAIGHT slowly with the steering wheel held steady and stop it gradually using the hand brake. Shut it off.

* Using vinyl tape, tape the laser tightly (without tripod) centered on the square alum tube. I use a wrap of tape at both ends.

> This tube must be very straight and uniform; and has to be cut at the right length to fit on the most reliably accurate surfaces on the face of your wheels....so that it fits parallel to the wheels surface.

* Using the 2 bungee straps...strap the tube onto the first wheel at axle level using the vent holes in the wheel and in a horizontal position with the laser beam pointed to the front. Keep the tube centered vertically and horizontally; and check that is is sitting flat on the wheels surface on both ends.

Place it the same manner on both wheels. You might need to avoid hitting the lug nuts with the Tercel.

* Place the 2 jack stands (or whatever?) 2'-3' in front of the car square to the front/back centerline of the car. On these and at axle height, place the 2" X 4".

Check to be sure that the distance from the axle centers is the same on both ends. Mark the position of the 2" X 4" from the car on both ends using chalk on the paved surface you are working on.

* Align the laser beam so that it hits the 2" X 4" (it should be reasonably close to level...use the bubble) and use a pen to mark the exact spot on the wood. I use arrows & numbers (1) and (2) to start.

* Then, without touching or moving the 2" X 4", move the laser to the opposite wheel, being sure to place it in the same way, and do the SAME thing. You now have 2 marks at opposite ends of the wood.

* Now, measure the tread to tread width or the DIAMETER of the tire and multiply this by 4. Set the jack stands and 2" X 4" up out this distance from the first position...using the first chalk marks to measure this 4Xs distance at each end.

* Assuming that you haven't moved the laser, adjust the SECOND arrow and the number (2) so that the laser beam hits EXACTLY on this mark.

* Then move the laser to the opposite wheel again. Mark the place where the laser hits with an arrow and label it (3).

* Using a caliper or tape measure, carefully measure the distance between marks (1) and (3). Then divide this by 4. This will equal your CURRENT toe setting.


Adjusting the toe:

* It's best to have hit BOTH tie rod adjusting threads with penetrant BEFORE starting this whole process.

* IF your steering wheel is off to one side when drivng straight down a road, then you would want to try and correct for this when you adjust the toe.

For instance, if your wheel is off to the right some and your current toe is +.100", you would want to bring the LEFT side adjustment IN by some amount. Likely you will not get this exact...but it's a good idea to try...otherwise your steering wheel might end up upside down...after a few toe adjustments.

* So if you have current toe that is too far on the (+) side, you will need to pull the tie rod IN some (decrease it's length)...if your current toe is too far on the
(-) side you will want to adjust the tie rod OUT some (increase it's length).


Centering the steering wheel:

The steering wheel needs to be reasonably close to center in order for your turn signals to be able to cancel correctly.

How to center it:

1) Drive the car straight down a road or street...noting the position of the steering wheel (to the left as an example)...pull the car straight into a parking area with the wheels straight ahead....the steering wheel should still be in the same position.

2) Turn the steering wheel until it is straight..."Toyota" label is level.

3) Get out and look at the front wheels and their position from straight ahead... If they are now off to the right (as an example)...you will need to to move the LEFT (driver's) tie rod OUT (increase it's length)...AND...move the RIGHT tie rod IN (decrease it's length)...by the SAME AMOUNT (SAME number of turns). In this example...you would be turning the flats UP on both tie rods.

4) If the steering wheel is off to the right...then use the info above in an opposite way.

** You'll need to drive the car straight down a road to check the position of the steering wheel after each adjustment

** For each 1/8 revolution that the steering wheel is off from straight ahead....you will need to turn BOTH tie rod ends somewhere around 1 & 3/4 TURNS to get the wheel straight...this is ONLY approximate!

** When done...you'll need to check the toe again....you can use any adjustment needed to get the wheel a little closer to centered.

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Note: the section below...between the dotted lines is still under construction...in otherwords...I'm not sure......
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* Since the tie rod ends are around 40% or so of the distance from the center of the hub to the tires surface...you would want to move the tie rod only about 20% or so of the distance needed at the tires surface....to get to the toe specs.

So if the current toe is +.100", you would probably want to shoot for 0 degrees and bring the toe IN about .100". 20% of this is .020" at the tie rod adjusting threads.

* There is probably some standard movement in degrees or inches for each full turn of the tie rod adjustment...but I don't know what it is.

I usually just try measure the distance between threads on the tie rod and try to use the appropriate amount to turn the rod...MUCH less than one full turn in most cases.

A change of a certain distance at the tie rod results in something like 4 to 5Xs the change in the toe setting????

* 1/4 turn of the tie rod = approx. .050" change in toe???

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* To do the actual adjustment, you need to turn the front wheels to the side you want to adjust; loosen the clamp using a 14mm wrench and then turn the tie rod using the flats on it using a 13mm wrench.

The rod will not turn in the tie rod end until the ball joint part gets to one side.

Be sure to snug the clamp bolt to torque specs when done.

You will then need to set up again and VERIFY that you have the toe set right.


Conclusion: This might seem complicated, but once you have done it successfully 1 or 2 times...it isn't that difficult. And you end up with a free laser or two in the process.

The results can be very accurate....IF you watch what you are doing.

And the next time you replace a tie rod end or a ball joint, you don't have to waste $ on an alignment.

Plus with a 4WD car, it's a good idea to check your alignment often.


To set the Camber:


Camber specs for the '83 - '84 Tercel 4WD = + 50' ...... + or - 30'

This is the same as +20' to +80'....meaning that the tire/wheel is farther OUT at the top.

>>> 60' = 1 degree

* Positive camber means that the top of the tire sits father out than the bottom of the tire. Negative camber is the opposite.


* Since you will use a bubble level, you'll have to find a place that is level from side to side....you don't have to have perfect level for toe-in, but for camber you do.

* You will need the same square tube as used for setting the toe; and a bubble level that is ACCURATE.

>>> Finding an accurate level....compare to a surveyors level??? Compare several levels and use one that agrees with others?? Use a home-made or other plumb bob?? <<<

* It is IMPORTANT to keep the square tube and bubble level perfectly vertical AND at perpendicular to the wheels plane of rotation......to get a true reading.

* A plumb bob would "adjust" itself....but you'd probably need help to get an accurate reading.

* Holding the level firmly on the square tube...you need to center the bubble exactly...and then measure the gap top or bottom to find the amount your wheel is off from vertical. This measurement must be converted to what it would be for a 12" long square tube...as below.

"each 1/16 inch is equivalent to 0.3 degree of angle when using a square that is 12 inches long. (or 1 degree = 0.2 inches at one foot)"

So if you happened to use a square tube exactly one foot long and you measure the GAP at the exact end; while the other end pivots off of the same area on the wheel....each 0.2" of gap you have from vertical = 1 degree of camber...plus or minus.

Another method is to use an "angle finder", which is just a small plastic square with a weighted needle and a circular degree scale. These also have to be kept perfectly vertical & perpendicular to the wheels plane of rotation. Maybe not as accurate as the method above...but pretty accurate. Can find these for $3-$4 in a hardware store?


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[3A-C Power]

Excellent writeup. Can you do something to address camber? I fudged up my camber trying to correct a harsh pull to the left that was actually caused by a bad tire! I figured it out eventually when I tried switching tires and it then pulled to the right instead.

[takza]

Added something on camber.

Did my wagon today and found that the toe was way off...had +.159" toe out, while the limit is +.040" . Set it close to zero.

Cured a tendency to sort of rock side to side on rough roads. Might allow my tires to last longer too.

Getting the process honed down to the point it is fairly easy to do...just have to watch the details. Once you do it a couple times, it just takes some time.

<_< or so he says...anyway.

[takza]

NEW METHOD:

note: this method is about as accurate as the original laser method IF you set it up right and mark accurately.


Wheel alignment 101:

http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm

How to do it:

* Before starting: You need to be sure that your wheels do not have side to side runout...or your attempts to set the toe-in will likely be off. You can check this by rotating the front wheels and watching closely for any side to side movement...or you could use a dial indicator.

* If your toe specs are given in degrees...you will have to translate this into inches at the tread. You probably wouldn't go wrong just shooting for zero toe or a slight 1/16" toe-in with most cars.

* right click to see?






This method uses a level as a straight edge and uses a square tube taped to this level to take a more accurate reading from the wheel instead of from the tire. I usually try to use the first wheel surface just in from the rim edge...which can be dented fairly easily.

The laser is used to translate the reading *accurately* down to a 2x6 laying on the ground.

This is the most important part....getting the reading from the wheel accurately to a surface on which it can be measured.


How to do it:

* drive the vehicle straight forward on a level gravel surface and stop it gradually.

* I place a 2x6 behind the front wheels positioned so the hanging laser will project a dot on its surface at both ends.

* I then place a mark (MARK 1) on one end of the 2x6. Then hold the level and laser setup SOLIDLY on the wheel at hub height...using the bubble in the level to level it horizontally. Waiting for the laser to quit moving...I align the mark on the 2x6 with the laser dot.

* Without moving the 2x6...I then move the level and laser setup to the opposite wheel (making sure that the surface on the wheel is placed in the same way as on the previous wheel) and make a new mark (MARK 2).

* Then the 2x6 is moved to a similar position in front of the tire. The level and laser setup is then held on the same wheel and (MARK 2) is aligned with the laser dot.

* Without moving the 2x6...the level and laser setup is moved to the opposite wheel (making sure that the surface on the wheel is placed in the same way as on the previous wheel) and MARK 3 is made where the dot is projected on the 2x6.

* Then using a dial caliper...the distance from MARK 1 to MARK 3 is carefully measured...but ONLY along the LENGTH of the 2x6...ignoring any offset side to side on the 2x6. This can be done accurately by using a carpenters square to scribe a line at each mark.

* The difference between MARK 1 and MARK 3 is your toe in or toe out.

NOTE: This is only the case IF you have the laser set up to hang down right at the tread of the tire. If it is out further than this your reading will be exaggerated some.

This method is accurate only if the laser is hung from the level in such as way that it hangs the "same" when the laser is flipped over for use on the other wheel...the pivot must be free and work exactly the same way when it is turned over.

Marks must be made very carefully. Don't try this on a windy day.

...

Adjusting the toe:

* It's best to have hit BOTH tie rod adjusting threads with penetrant BEFORE starting this whole process.

* The process of dialing in to the correct toe-in can be frustrating IF you don't make very small changes relative to your previous setting. Probably best to move the adjuster by no more than 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time...unless your toe-in is way off.

Do not try to guess or set it relative to the rear tires.

Centering the steering wheel:

The steering wheel needs to be reasonably close to center in order for your turn signals to be able to cancel correctly.

* IF your steering wheel is off to one side when driving straight down a road, then you would want to try and correct for this when you adjust the toe. You do this by turning one adjuster in or out on one side....which side...depending on where the steering wheel is driving straight ahead and whether the tie rod is in front or back of the axles.

Cautions: An inexpensive laser might not be very rugged...so you'd want to treat it carefully.

Obviously...DON'T look into the laser light...and don't point it at people.


The main points to consider in order to do it right are:

Be consistent each time you place the laser and tube on a wheel...mark exactly in the center of the laser spot....measure carefully between marks (1) and (3).

If you have hit a curb or had an accident...you'll likely need a professional alignment....since there are many other settings involved in a complete front alignment. Though on the T4WD.... there are only two settings...TOE IN and CAMBER?

[Petros]

Great write up, I have done my own alignment since 1975. One additional item is that it is not necessary to use a laser level if you do not have one. The simplest way to set toe-in without special tools is as follows:

-With the car strait and on level ground (a garage floor is usually good enough), you jack the front tires one at a time from under the ball joint just enough so it will spin freely (a quarter of an inch is all it needs).

-Spray paint a line down the center of the tire by spinning the wheel, and then scribe a thin line down the center of the paint with a sharp tool (a nail with a good point steadied on a block of wood works fine). You push the point against the paint line in the tire with the wheel spinning. this line must be strait so hold your scribe very steady. Clamping the scribe tool to a heavy support is helpful.

-Then lower the wheel carefully so you do not disturb the wheel position.

-The accuracy of these lines determines your toe-in, and this system is accurate even if the wheel is bent or the tire is lopsided since you do not depend on the rim for accurate measurements, the line will be perfectly aligned with the front wheel spindle plane of rotation. BTW this will also give you a check on the quality and condition of the tires, if the tread sifts side to side relative to the scribed line it means the tire could be out of round or separating.

-You check the alignment with a simple tool made of wood, metal or even stiff cardboard. I used a 1x2 wood batten as long as the outside width my tires, with a masonite right triangle on one end, and a masonite square on the other. the height of the triangle and square should be exactly half of the tire height. It will look kind of like a staff with a stiff flag on each end, one square and one triangle.

-Then lay the measuring tool on the floor behind the front tires with the measuring cards up against the back of the tires. You align the point of the triangle with one line scribed in the tire and block the tool in position against the tires. Walk around the other side and mark the tool with a sharp pencil where the scribed line lands on the other tire. So now you have on the measuring tool the exact distance between the scribed lines on the back of the tires.

-Then move the tool to the front of the wheels, align the point with the scribed line on one side. Then you can measure and read directly the exact toe-in (or toe-out) on the other side by comparing your pencil mark with the location of the scribed line in the tire. If you carefully mark on the tool the location of the front scribe location you can then pull the tool out from under the car and read and measure it more carefully on the bench.

This is the method used for well over half a century to align all cars up until the advent of the computerized electronic alignment machines. Many of the more modern methods (even today) depend on the wheels being true and accurate as compared to the spindle's axis of rotation (not always a good assumption especially on a car driven off-road!).

Also, the tendency by most alignment mechanics is to always set the toe-in to the maximum that is within specs. That is if the spec is "0" with up to +1/4" toe-in, they will always set it at 1/4 inch, This is because hard acceleration on most front wheel drive cars causes slight toe-out, and makes the steering squirely on hard acceleration. I learned this by stupidly setting my own toe-in, caster and camber to 0-0-0 since that was all within spec of the car. It was almost undriveable at freeway speeds, it wandered all over the road. I reset them all at the max limit of each of the specs, and it felt solid and steady at all speeds and driving conditions.

[keith]

Actually, on FWD, the tendency on hard acceleration is to toe in. RWD vehicles want to toe out on hard acceleration and high speed cruising. FWD will tend to go to neutral on high speed cruising. FWD is best set dead ahead.

[takza]

That's a real interesting method to get an actual "plane of rotation" or whatever it's called....does bypass the bent wheel issue.

I could set up a dial indicator to test the wheel run out.

Using a laser to get a measurement bypasses the use of measuring tapes and so forth...a source of inaccuracy...since you are usually only measuring a difference of 1/16".

You could use keith's original method, but take the reading off the wheel instead of the tire? I couldn't get a consistent reading off the tires. But you still can't easily get a reading from hub height though due to the car's frame...the laser projects the reading down to the ground from hub height...but you have to have the pivots free and wait for the laser to quit swinging to get an accurate mark.

I tested this new method vs the old laser method and they seem to agree.

I've watched the guys with the machines and they rotate the wheels to get a run out type reading for the wheels...I think.

[takza]

Front end alignment so easy...that even a caveman can do it....


I was about to take the Dolly Llama out on a ride...when alas...I found inner edge tire wear on my front tires.

How this happened...I do not know...I would have expected any pothole hits would have caused greater toe out rather

than what I found...too much toe in....by by about - 0.28".


So I reset it to specs...which I have at + or - 0.04" or + or - 1 mm toe.

So I set it to ZERO toe.



Stuff you need:


* maybe 30-40 feet of nylon string...nylon because it is stretchable...and you can snug it up to maintain tension.

* (2) 15 mm thick (a little less than 5/8") spacers made of wood or ????

* 14 mm and 13 mm combination wrenches

* some penetrating oil


And so we begin:


Hit the adjusters on both sides with penetrating oil and let it soak in....overnight if possible.


Take the string and tie it around the tires front and back at axle level so you have a complete loop...might need a

little help with this. It needs to be snug. It doesn't matter where it goes on the ends...but along the sides you

can't have it hitting any part of the body...just the edge of the tires...on the sidewalls.

Then make sure it is at axle level at all tires.


Next...take the (2) spacers and place them under the string on the back tires at the rear sidewall...this adjusts

the track equally front to back. The tension of the string should hold them.


Now...on one side or the other turn the wheels so that the string is JUST TOUCHING both the front and back

sidewall. You should be doing all this on GRAVEL...so the wheels turn easily....or dust some sand on a paved

surface.


Then...go to the other side and look...IF you have correct alignment...the string will JUST TOUCH the BOTH the

front and rear sidewalls of this tire.


In the REAL WORLD you will probably have one of two situations here....you will have SPACE between the string and

the rear sidewall of this second tire...meaning you have too much TOE-OUT.


In the other case you will be able to pull the string away from the front sidewall of this second tire and still

have the string on the sidewall at the rear of the tire...meaning you have this much TOE-IN.



How to adjust your TOE (please...keep your socks on)...


In theory at least...your wheels should be pointing very close to straight ahead at this point. So sit in the

driver's seat and look at the wheel...IS IT STRAIGHT?


If not...you will want to do your adjusting on the side that will result in the wheel being closer to straight

rather than worse off.


Which adjuster you move depends on whether you have too much or too little toe...AND which way the steering wheel

is off. Four factors to consider.


Example: IF your steering wheel is to the left AND you have too much toe-out...you would want to bring the right

side wheel IN some to both correct the toe AND the steering wheel position....you do this by loosening and turning

the inner tie rod on the right side (pass side) so that the length of it is LESSENED. You will need to look at the

threads using a light to see which direction to turn the inner tie rod using the 13 mm open end wrench on the

flats.

There are 3 other possibilities. Think about it. I sit in the driver's seat and use my hands held out to

represent the tires and how they point...in order to figure out which adjuster to move.


You use the 14 mm box end to loosen the adjusting clamp...and the 13 mm open end to do the adjusting by turning the

inner tie rod.. If the adjusters are rusted...you might have issues getting them loose...which is why it is a good

idea to soak them overnight...BEFORE you start.


note: Since you are measuring at the sidewall and not the tread...measured toe might be off a little...except ZERO

is ZERO....so you end up where you want.