timing belt wont go on right

[shambug]

I recently snaped the timming belt, after some investigation I found that the tensioner had snaped. Mechanic replaced the tensioner but according to the mechanic, the old tensioner wore down the oil pumps groving and now the timming belt wont sit right and the way it is right now its eating into the belt. he said that he tried to use washers to adjust the belt but just not posible. I have not had a chance to look at it, but will be towing back to my house today. Was told that the oil pump has to be replaced. mechanic wants to remove engine to accomplish this. I have been reading on the fourms that this might not be needed, and was looking for a good walkthrough of how i could replace the pump wiithout removing the engine. Or if removing the engine with a comalong hooked to a tree branch would be easeier. or any other ideas. This is based on a phone call i had with the office person at the mechanic and most likey is not100% correct. I will update this post with pictures once i get the car back and talk directly with the mechanic. Also wasnt quite sure if they were talking about the water pump or oil pump.

[marlinh]

Pictures would help. Your description is confusing so I am not sure what was damaged.

[Petros]

It might be possible to hand machine or sand the place where the tentioner mounts and use a steel washer under it. I know the issue, it is always a risk when the timing belt brakes that the belt will damage the tensioner mount. I have replace the oil pump to fix this problem on a project car I got cheap once. You have to jack up the engine to give you some clearnace (loosen front engine mounts), remove the oil pan (there are a few of the 10mm bolts that are hard to reach, use an open end wrench and get only about 1/4 turn each swing of the wrench). Once you drop the oil plan you have to unbolt the oil pick up from the bottom of the oil pump (two 10 mm bolts), it will fall into the pan and you can wiggle it out. once you have the pan off you can remove the oil pump and replace it with a new one.

the only tricky part about getting it back together is to have to get the oil pick up installed, with the oil pan under it. You have to work through the gap in the front, and hopefully do not drop anything into the pan, or it has to be wiggle out.

make sure you clean the gasket surface off good, use a new gasket on the pan.

It can be done without removing the engine, but it takes narrow and nimble fingers. I have done it several times, troublesome but way less work than removing the engine.

[shambug]

Got the oil pan off but cant figure out how to remove the gear in the picture. Also in trying to remove it I took a chunk out of the side see picture. Will it need replacing? and how do i get it off. Service manual doesn't even say i have to take it off. But then how do i get the oil pump off.

[xirdneh]

this is the correct one

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=9008



you will have to remove gear to get oil pump off

if you file off the sharp edges where it is chipped it will work ok

or i can mail you one

[shambug]

I am going to try and sand down the gear but what would you want for that gear if i fail.

[xirdneh]

just cover cost of shipping

[Petros]

that gear just slips off, but sometimes it gets corrosion or gunk in it and it gets stuck. do not try and lever it off like you did. you can damage it and/or the oil pump housing. try ATF or penetrating oil on it, heat it up with a torch or a heat gun, and than whack it with a soft hammer to break it free and see if you can get it to move. puller might help, but I have never found it necessary, just pry on both sides very carefully to get it to move. once you get it to break free it should slide off.

If you grind off the sharp edges of the broken flange it will be good to use, it only drives the valve timing belts so the loads are not very high on it. A sharp edge could fray the edge of the belt, if it is smoothed over it will be fine. or replace it.

good luck.

[shambug]

I tried penatrating oil over night then some in the morning then blow tourched it then whacked it then pried and it moved but never got any easear all the way to the end. It gave a good fight at the end and i ended up snaping it in a few places then i didnt really try and not brake it so its broke all the way around. but I did finally get it off.

[Petros]

clean off the goop and corrosion on the front stem of the crank and key and than use anti-seize on the next one so you will be able to take it off next time you need to get into this part of the engine.

[shambug]

Got the new oil pump in and a new to me gear (thanks xirdneh) I used anti seize. Even though I cleaned every thing up nice it still took some effort to install the gear. But now that i got it on it slides more or less freely. Never done anything like this before so any basic tips would be good. I read on the other tercel fourm that you may need to prime the oil pump. Do I need to prime the oil pump before I install the oil pan? I ordered a oil pan gasket but the service manuals just says to use sealeant. Do I use both or just the sealeant? Anything else I should do with the oil pan off? I will also need to re time the car as I spun the crank shaft a few times getting the old gear off, live and learn.

[marlinh]

You won't need to retime the car if you didn't pull the distributor and you get the timing marks exact.

Since the engine is in the car, I would use a gasket because it would be tricky to install sealant perfectly. The new gasket will probably be cork, rubber ones seem to be unavailable now. Glue it to the pan and then put a thin film of silicone sealant on the other side and install. Do not overtighten the bolts as the gasket will split.

[Petros]

I would use sealant on one side of the gasket, the pan side, to "glue" it to the pan. Use a think layer of anti-seize on the engine side of the gasket. tighten it very evenly and carefully and it will not leak. the anti-sieze will allow you take it off easier next time, without damage to the gasket, and it can be reused.

Remember to get that oil pick up installed correctly.

Wile the pan is off you might consider removed the number three and four connecting rod bearing caps and inspect the bearings. they can all be replaced if they are worn or damaged. make SURE they go on the same way, same direction, on the same connecting rod (they are matched to the rods they go on, not interchangable). retorque to factory spec. If you have no torque wrench than just leave them, but it is easy to replace the bearings with the pan off.

to prime the pump, once it all back together, filled with oil and coolant, leave distributor unplugged, and crank the engine for 30 seconds (or until the oil light goes out). than plug in the distribtor and start it up.

[shambug]

F*** I put a long bolt where a short bolt goes, and cracked the water pump housing. The Timing belt tensioner took out one of the water pumps bolt heads and so i had to replace the water pump to. Spent all day getting a replacement at pick a pull. Hope it works cause I could not find a water pump housing on the Internet. This started out as just a snapped timing belt. I have got to be more careful. Does anyone know the size of the o-ring from the pump to block.

[larry mcgrath]

Rockauto sells water pumps cheep, a pick and pull pump is a gamble at best, with a new pump you get new bearings and shaft seal------the seal is what generly starts leaking First--. Un-less you like dooing this over I'de go with a new pump. Just my experence. Larry