Hi from New Mexico

[irowiki]

Tom: I think I actually figured out the switch itself is bad (the part that pops off the steering wheel) I need to see if it can be cleaned.

Taking a page from Tom as well, here's step one of my underhood sticker for my 1st gen sedan, with the A/S and EGR systems removed and "Capped". I have to review my haynes manual and see what else I can change or "modernize". A lot of the systems on the second gen are a lot simpler in routing and layout! Like the BVSV, which goes to the HAC port on the vacuum advance (???) will be bypassed in favor of a HAC being connected to the HAC port.

[dlb]

oh boy, that does look worse than the second gen's vacuum system. i feel like we got spoiled with our canadian emission systems because the manual trans t4's have no computer, o2 sensor, or EBCV, which makes them a lot easier to troubleshoot. less crap in the way when working in there, too.

great idea for modifying the diagram.

[irowiki]

The first gen vacuum systems are actually quite close to the second gen canada M/T! With notable exception of the VCV. Some of the VCV stuff is passthrough, EGR and gas canister related.

Where does the MC valve connect? I have a sneaking feeling it connects to a valve off the EGR.


Heeeey, looking at the FSM again it looks like you guys don't have the computer controlled charcoal canister. Got any spares?

[dlb]

yeah, the VCV and BVSV are the biggest differences, but those two devices equal a lot more hoses. it starts looking like the hondas of the 80's. spaghetti disasters.

the MC and one vac switch run directly off manifold vac. you can see it in this diagram.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2810#p55103

[irowiki]

Oh, I meant the other side of the MC, the thicker hose. I can't quite tell on any diagram where it should hook up other than somewhere around the EGR valve, or intake manifold. I may be missing whatever it should hook to!

For some reason the vac switch on mine (which powers the fuel cut stuff) is routed through the VSV, I think it is pass though, but I'll probably just tee off the MC valve like the canada cars do.

Also can't tell why the port on the advance that gets ported vac needs a VTV, will probably just connect it right to ported vac like you suggested here:
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee72 ... 7e27bb.jpg

Actually, the ported vac goes to port S on the VSV and the lower (upper?) vac advance goes to port U, maybe that is passthrough.

You should see how it looked with the EGR in place:
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hph ... 6869_n.jpg

I need to study my haynes manual some more but I'm pretty sure I can cut the BVSV since it goes to the HAC port and I'll be installing the HAC. I have a feeling it was supposed to retard timing when cold! IF so maybe I can hack it up to power the cold mixture heater!

This is actually fun, in a way. Six months ago I was utterly lost when looking at any of this vacuum stuff! Now I'm looking at making it run better than it did stock.

I'll be starting a new thread when I actually am lining up to do the carb swap.

[irowiki]

My first compression test, and we did the Sedan first just to be curious:


Left no oil, right oil dribbled in first. Car was warmed up, throttle opened all the way. 5-10 seconds worth of cranking? She does two cranks a second more or less. So I probably cranked too much!




Not too bad for an engine with 216k on it?

What exactly does adjusting the valves help, would that help compression or fuel economy at all?

[dlb]

adjusting valves will generally have one of two effects. if the valve lash is too tight, they stay open too much and will get burnt (aka destroyed) prematurely. staying open too much can also cause a loss of power. if it's too loose, they close too early and also cause a loss of power. making sure the valve lash is correctly adjusted will help with compression but since your #s there are generally pretty low, i would say the rings and cylinders are also largely to blame. if you want to extend that engines life, i would probably add a can of restore or some lucas oil after each oil change. those are bandaid solutions but it's not so bad it needs rebuilding yet.

[irowiki]

I was thinking of a seafoam treatment too. The oil stays mostly clean after an oil change, but it leaks, a quart or so every 2k miles or so.

I just thought of a valve adjustment because the manual says 15,000 mile intervals and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been done in decades.

[Petros]

if it needs valve adjustment than do it for that reason. It will not likely have any noticeable effect on a compression test, unless as DLB points out, it was really way off and likely would cause harm to the engine. the valve cools though the seat, it exhaust valve in particular does not quite close it will over heat and likely break off, usually doing severe damage to the engine.

[irowiki]

Baby thinks he knows what is wrong with the new car:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=47 ... 4630229049 (can view without a facebook account)

[ARCHINSTL]

Too precious - good smile for a Monday morning! Thanks!
Never too early to start them out. Did you ever read this thread? https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4865
Tom M.

[irowiki]

Yeah, I did!

The amusing thing is most of the time he pointed directly at the engine when I asked him what needed to be fixed

I hope at least one of the tercels is still running by the time he's 15!

[Mr. Mad Ox]

Socks and Chacs! Right on!

[irowiki]

Another "why I love my wagon" moment.

[Gottolovem]

Third row seating