Well it ran great but then I got a engine leak and did the cam and crank seals and didn’t tighten the cam enough and it walk off half a inch now it won’t fire.
Treleytercel wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:13 am
...did the cam and crank seals and didn’t tighten the cam enough and it walk off half a inch...
what does "walk off half a inch" mean? the cam pulling cam loose, or the camshaft came out?
what did you not tighten enough? the 17 mm bolt on the front of cam sprocket? or the 10 mm bolts on cam tower caps, that act as bearings for the camshaft?
Trying to understand exactly what happened, if you can clearly communicate that we might be able to give you instructions to fix it yourself. But with these cryptic and incomplete descriptions it is impossible to help you or give you any instructions.
you may have gotten the cam timing off when you removed the cam sprocket, it will not run if the cam timing is off, and that is an easy fix.
no! the head gasket should be put on dry, right out of the package. try not to touch the surface much, it has a graphite coating on it.
After surface sanding of both block and head, clean the top of the block, and the face of the head good. use solvent and paper towels, wipe vigorously, repeat until they come away clean.
install it all dry. you lubricate the threads on the head bolts, and under the head bolt washers only.
To expand on what Petros said, lubricate the threads and washer *lightly*. Any oil that comes out of the threads will contaminate the gasket, all it takes is enough oil to coat the threads. If oil is dripping off of the bolt you have way too much. If there's oil outside of the thread crests you have a little too much.
For cleaning the threads in the block I like to fill them all with acetone and let it soak in for a bit, then I take a 45 caliber bore brush in a drill and thoroughly clean them out. Then another acetone soak, this time with some compressed air and a rag to blow out any shmoo (technical term). Last I thread a cleaned and brushed bolt in, it should thread in fully with zero resistance. If you feel any resistance, clean it again. If you can't get it with cleaning you may need to chase the threads with a tap.
exactly correct, clean the bolt holes out before you do the final clean of the top deck, there is no way to clean the bolt holes out well without getting solvent and debris on the deck surface where the gasket goes.
When I worked for a professional fully sponsored race team, we would chase the threads with the correct tap every overhaul. it was done carefully mostly to clean out any burs or thread damage, we did not want to cut any new material.
I think however, a good cleaning is all that is necessary normally. I made a thread cleaner by grinding two flat surfaces on a correct size bolt, and fully deburr it. I thread it into each hole, with solvent, and back it out. blow out with more solvent and compressed air, than repeat with bore brush several times. remember to carefully and fully clean the threads on the bolts as well, and inspect the threads for any damage. it can be cleaned up with a stiff wire brush, and if necessary a fine file for any damaged thread.