87 SR5 4wd from Vancouver!

[dlb]

it is easy to adjust on the car if you have done the mod to allow adjustment (drill out rivets and installs screws with nuts on them).

entrax has a canadian manual trans terc so the choke housing is fastened with screws already--no need to drill out any rivets, etc. you can see the screws in the last pic he posted.

[entrax]

carb is back in and car runs much better! metal band faces the top right screw, that also lines up the line on top of the housing:


cold start:
before: struggles to idle at 600rpm, sometimes stalls out.
now: immediate start up to 1000rpm, then it climbs up to 2000rpm in a few seconds. does the car choke cam usually hold the rpm's that high for a while? when i stepped on the gas pedal, the rpm's would come back down just a little bit more each time, until i was finally at 1000rpm.

hot start:
before: slowly come up to 800rpm
now: very nice start up. it roars to life to 1500rpm then comes down to 800rpm immediately after.

observations:
- no more stalling engine and black smoke when i repeated stab the gas pedal!

- when the car is idling, then i hit the gas real quick, it seems to hold whatever the rpm it reaches there for maybe a half second after i let off the gas before it comes back down. however when i slowly bring it up to whatever rpm, then let go, it immediately comes back down. is that the AAP doing its job squirting that extra fuel causing the rpm to stay up a little bit longer due to the quick 'acceleration'?

- now that I can actually see into the sight glass, it seems that the fuel level is too low. it's at the bottom "line"

[dlb]

glad to hear your rebuild was such a success, entrax.

yes, the fast idle cam is what keeps the idle speed high while the car is warming up. that is correct and normal operation.

when you left your foot off the throttle suddenly, it is the throttle positioner's (TP's) job to slow the shutting of the throttle. this is an emissions thing as it reduces unburnt hydrocarbons or whatever, and also normal operation. you can adjust the TP easily with a flat screwdriver, it's on the front of the carb.

as long as the fuel level is between the two points of the sight glass and you aren't experiencing and typical lack of fuel symptoms (bogging on hard acceleration, bogging while cold, etc), i wouldn't worry about it. if you do notice symptoms, just remove the carb top and adjust the metal tabs for the float a little bit.

[entrax]

good to hear. drivability is just fine. well all 2 blocks of it that I tried.

thank you dlb and this forum in general for being supportive for me to get this done. it's definitely a lot to take in, but I understand a lot of what the carb does now that I've taken it apart and put it back together.

i may give emissions a try again. does the distributor vac advance need to be plugged when running the test? from what I've read, it's at 12-13 BTDC if the vac advance is on? should I be doing the "driving simulation test" with it at 5BTDC (no dist vac advance)?

thanks once again! i destroyed my clutch at autocross with my mr2 so the t4 will be my daily quite soon.

[dlb]

no prob entrax, happy to help.

for emissions testing, you will want all systems in stock operating order. that means ignition timing set to 5* BTDC, both vac advance hoses connected and properly working. so the distributor vac advance diaphragms should first be checked by sucking on each port and making sure you cannot suck air through them. if they are good and both hold air, leave them disconnected for now and plug the hoses that go to them while you set the ignition timing to 5* BTDC. then reconnect the hoses and confirm that the timing at idle advances to about 12-13* BTDC -- if it's up at 17* BTDC at idle, the hoses are mixed up. switch them on the dist vac advance ports and check again.

if the you can suck air though the vac advance diaphragms that means they are bad. you can leave the hoses disconnected and plugged but i'm not sure how much that will affect your emissions. you might want to replace the advance unit before doing emissions, i don't know.

after you have passed emissions (fingers crossed), you can advance your timing to 10* BTDC for a slight improvement in performance. once again, you have to disconnect and plug the vac advance hoses when you do this, and then reconnect them afterward.

[entrax]

I took a risk and put it through aircare once again and it passed! I put back the vac advance stuff as normal like you said.

Only thing to note is the idle HC almost failed, so I'm guessing the idle mix screw needs more touch up. Rewarded the car and myself by driving it around the city all day!

[entrax]

Before beating your head against the wall some more, it would be a really good idea to pull the rears apart, free everything up and make sure that everything is working as it should.
This will eliminate a lot of the guessing and trying that your experiencing now.
More than likely, the adjuster is seized and the shoes aren't close enough to the drum, which would explain why you have to pump the pedal so much.

this diagnosis ended up being spot on, thank you Jarf. the adjuster was not seized, however the little arm that adjusts it was not in the correct place. cleaned everything up, and all is good. the threads for the bleeder nipple were stripped, so it was plugged with solder for now. new wheel cylinders for both sides ordered.

the car brakes hard now even with the temporary soldering solution!
not a fan of the mud tires, they slip a lot in the rain. they'll be coming off for some 185/60/14 winter tires.
the car is slated to daily duties thanks to this wonderful forum starting this Friday! i'm very excited.

[entrax]

Got a new muffler! the old one was clamped on, but where it was clamped in was rusted, so it was just hanging by one hanger at the very rear of the car. the over-axle portion had holes everywhere as well. surprisingly everything in front of the rear axle was in good shape, so a cut, few bends and welds by a local shop, and here it is!

before:

after:


then some asshole hit my car, popped the side mirror. apparently my neighbour said older man got out of his car, grabbed some of the pieces, threw it on the sidewalk and drove off. quite disappointed.
all is well now. an 83 junk yard fwd hatch saved the day for a few bucks, except I cannot adjust it from inside the cabin now.

[dlb]

wow, that old one looked rough. the new one looks great. sorry to hear about the old guy bashing the mirror off. at least there wasn't any body damage. is the new one of the flip/flop type? those came on the 83/84 4wd's, not sure about other tercels.

[entrax]

late reply, been busy with the clutch on the mr2.

the mirror was actually from a 86 wagon fwd, but unfortunately it doesn't have the mirror adjustment inside the cabin (is the the flipflop?) I saw a few 83s hatch with em, so I'll grab those next time.

no body damage from the hit yay!

the front right wheel bearing has been scaring me, so when I finished the clutch on the mr2, the t4 was put off the road for maintenance. Took it off today and when I pushed the axle out the back of the hub, the hub just fell off! safe to say that it was time. hardest part was the tie rod, but with a puller, off it went. new bearing coming in and hopefully back on the road next week.
I placed the hub back on the knuckle andwhen spinning the hub, the rotation of the hub on the knuckle was very stiff, so it was close to seizing up.

asides, the entire car got a good detail done. quality products from griot's garage for polishing! for a car with lots of chips, scratches, dents, she shines quite nice!
adding solenoids to the door locks for remote entry! going to be also wiring it up to have central locking in-cabin. I have to find a Toyota OEM switch to go with this project.
with the days being darker, as much as I hate putting Hids in reflectors, I bought some 4300k ones. it bugs me as I've done extensive work to retrofit true projectors with oe d2s hid bulbs for various cars, but I don't want to risk breaking such a unique headlight as the 87s are by modifying them...

[dlb]

the flip flop side mirrors came on the 83-84 4wd's, not sure about the 2wd wagons and hatchbacks though. i don't have a picture handy of the 85-88 fixed style of mirror but the last pic in this post shows the flip flop style. they bend forward and backward, i suppose so that trees (and senior drivers) don't rip them right off your car when scraping by.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7696

[irowiki]

I Can confirm that our FWD wagon has the adjustable ones (from the inside), our 85 Hatchback only has ONE mirror (on the left) and it is not adjustable from the inside.

[entrax]

have had a few 83 and 84 fwd hatchbacks, and unfortunately, they don't have flip flops. they do however have the adjustment inside, something that is not there anymore for the fwd tercs 85+ from what i've seen at the yards.

[entrax]

Central locking!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1cbbfC-h-s

[irowiki]

Woah, do tell!